Nashville TJ's Coilover Build - Page 101 - JeepForum.com
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post #1501 of 2280 Old 04-15-2018, 02:44 PM
kg6mov
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My vote would definitely be to keep the body lift and raise the belly skid. If the control arm brackets are the lowest thing under the belly you'll be doing pretty well.

And the 42's will help.



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post #1502 of 2280 Old 04-15-2018, 02:59 PM
Kalten
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New guys thoughts... if you lift the body an inch and can tuck your transmission higher thus gaining 1-2 inches of belly clearance and on top of it going from 40s to 42s will gain you another inch at the axle and belly height. Iím wondering where the quandary is. One inch on the body to gain three at the belly. The only issue I can see would be what it does to your center of gravity. I think the tires would offset and the body lift for cg.

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post #1503 of 2280 Old 04-15-2018, 03:18 PM
Trevlaw
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I would definitely keep the body lift. I haven't noticed a single downside since putting it on mine, but there have been plenty of upsides. Considering that the Jeep is already down for a bit, I would get some body lift spacers and longer snubbers for the grill and the rear body mounts, then the instead of using a spacer on the 6 mounts in the middle on the side of the frame, cut the stock ones off and either raise them 1" or make new ones 1" higher that reuse the stock body mount bushings. I'm pretty sure yours are still stock, but I might be remembering wrong

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post #1504 of 2280 Old 04-15-2018, 05:07 PM
Remko
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Do the body lift and gain the extra clearance. You'll just end up doing later on anyway when you decide the belly is too low, or you want more room for 42's. I find that a 1.25" body lift is enough for clearance, but doesn't look bad. It'll also allow you to cut of your factory body mounts, the one's outside of the frame, and move them up and gain clearance there too, I used the SWAG ones, but there are lot's out there. Also, by moving up the mounts you can use the stock mount, without the body puck.

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post #1505 of 2280 Old 04-15-2018, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
NashvilleTJ
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the input. I did order a Currie body lift a week or so ago just in case I went that way. Those aluminum spacers were just temporary while I did the mock up on the engine. The replacement body mounts are a great idea. I may do that. I was kind of leaning in that direction already, and then this...

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post #1506 of 2280 Old 04-15-2018, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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When I tried to clock the Atlas to the original position I had with the 42RLE, the position of the clocking stud taps would not let me get back to that position. The location where I needed a stud hole was exactly where the large case bolts were located. I could only clock it a little higher - pretty much dead flat - or way lower. Go figure, nothing is ever easy.

I did not want to use the lower clock position, and I needed to do some clearancing for the higher position. So I took a few hits with the BFH, however, I could not get enough movement because the drivers seat bracket is directly above that location.
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post #1507 of 2280 Old 04-15-2018, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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After measuring a bit, and never being one afraid to pull out the cutting wheel, I determined that I could cut out a section of the seat bracket and not interfere with the tilting mechanism. I think this will give me enough room.
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post #1508 of 2280 Old 04-15-2018, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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So I made the cut to clear the Atlas. As you can seen, I've modified this area before also to clear the Atlas. Thank goodness for carpeting...
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post #1509 of 2280 Old 04-15-2018, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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That allowed me to get the Atlas in place, tucked up where I needed it to be - and also made my decision on the body lift.
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post #1510 of 2280 Old 04-15-2018, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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And with that, the case is only hanging below the frame about an inch. Not bad for that big 4-speed. Also from this picture you can see where my challenge will be - the transmission oil pan is now the lowest piece there. However, tucking the case up high helped that bit as well.


Now that I have my final location, I can start on the transmission cross member.
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post #1511 of 2280 Old 04-15-2018, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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And finally tonight - I could not resist. I spent a few minutes on this very important modification...
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post #1512 of 2280 Old 04-16-2018, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Today I knocked out two fabrication items. First up I modified the transmission cross member to work with the Hemi. The location was close enough that all I had to do was build a new bracket to match the 545RFE bolt pattern. So out came the grinders, and off came the old bracket.
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post #1513 of 2280 Old 04-16-2018, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
NashvilleTJ
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I had some old tabs in my scrap drawer, and they made building the gussets very easy given that they were the right size and already fish mouthed to match the tubing. That's the reason for the holes in the gussets - I was not worrying about saving weight...
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post #1514 of 2280 Old 04-16-2018, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
NashvilleTJ
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A coat of paint, and back in it went.
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post #1515 of 2280 Old 04-16-2018, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
NashvilleTJ
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Nashville TJ's Coilover Build

I also tackled the steering today. The stock steering location does not clear the headers, so I bought Red Rock's relocation kit. The upper mount worked like a charm.
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