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My Surgical TJ-6 Build

172K views 684 replies 75 participants last post by  T-Jay 
#1 · (Edited)
Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting

I'm doing a final sweep for information on the tub/frame stretch from TJ to LJ. At this point, I've managed to compile a pretty extensive data base of photos and documentation. I'm Just looking to see if there's anything else out there I haven't already found. Here are some build links I've compiled so far. Thanks to those who shared these.
I've got the majority of the parts I need to at least start my stretch, but I would rather hold off until EVERY part needed is within arms reach. That's given me the opportunity to prepare to an almost surgical degree. My goal is to plan, and pre-fab as much as practically possible before I make the cut...or tell my wife what I'm up to...>:)

What I have so far:

• (x2) 16" frame sections (JF classifieds) $100
• (x2) 16" upper tub sheet metal sections (Davey's Jeeps) $120
• (x1) Pair of factory LJ spec belt rails (JF classifieds) $100
• (x1) Pair of Savvy LJ aluminum corner blanks (4lowparts) $485
• (x1) Chrysler technical training body repair guide (eBay) $15
• (x1) B-pillar body section for practice/investigation (eBay) $50

Rectangle Tool Gas Wood Office supplies

What I still need to gather:
  • LJ soft top
  • Fuel and brake line extensions
  • Sheet metal for the tub patch
  • Custom drive shaft
  • Extra body mounts
I've decided to extend my tub at the front lip of the upper cargo deck as many others have done. However, I plan to move my rear wheel housings back as one intact piece with the rest of the rear tub half, rather than cutting across through them horizontally splitting them into two pieces. Instead, I'll only be cutting the spot welds that hold the wheel housings up to the B-pillars. That way the wheel housings will look original when I'm done. I'll net a little extra interior space as well. The only cuts I'll actually be making to separate the front and rear body halves are down through the vertical face of the side body panels. Everything else will come apart cleanly at the spot welds.

Here's a video I made for a friend explaining the plan.


And some sketches:cool:
Gesture Line Font Art Pattern
Bicycle part Tool Automotive exterior Machine Auto part


I'll post more details soon.
 

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#114 ·
Update:

THE EXTENSIONS ARE DONE!
:carrot::bacon:

Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle


They have a total of (x12) hefty slot welds through the top bottom and sides holding 1/8" wall sleeves inside tube. The sleeves were made similar to several of the other builds I researched. We took and cut down a larger tube, into 2 Ls and welded them together. The welded sleeves were then press fit into the extension pieces at a depth of 4". That leaves a wall thickness of 1/2" across the frame splices.

I'm going to brace, cut, and hopefully slot my frame ends after work tonight if it doesn't get to late. I still need to split my fuel, evap, and brake lines though. Luckily I had some free time to pull my drive shaft and belly pan last night after the wife went to bed.:shhh:

After that's all done I want to slow things down a bit and take my time getting everything realigned. I remember reading in one of the other builds (I think it was Chop110) that there was and an issue with the frame shifting out of alignment at some point in the process. His Jeep turned out amazing in the end, but don't envy that terrifying "OOPS" moment he must have had when he discovered the problem. I don't want to have to go back and undo anything due to my eagerness to get back on the road.

Once all my reference points line up perfectly I'll tack the extension in place at the corners with my stick welder and wait for my buddy to come and MIG the seams and remaining slot welds.

I can't wait to start bending up the floors and walls! I've decided to call an audible on spot welding all the body sheet metal panels together. I just discovered 3M impact resistant structural adhesive. Its provides a much stronger bond due to its larger surface area, it eliminates heat warpage associated with welding, it's more rust preventative, and it even has sound deadening properties! It adds a few more bucks to my budget but the strength and functionality to cost ratio is pretty undeniable.


Check it it out:popCorn:

Here's another interesting reference video I found on sealant application. Our Jeeps appear to have gotten the 3rd method from the factory:


Liquid Product Fluid Font Gas
Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Shotgun Font
 
#119 ·
You got this! Awesome progress so far btw. I've been enjoying following along so far. I used to dream about doing this to my YJ. Instead I bought an XJ with a longer wheelbase and saved a lot of headache. :rofl::rofl:
 
#125 ·
scotch737 said:
Lol.. when I cut my "new" frame.. The cuts where jagged from plasma cutter.. not this lined out at all.. I just went through a factory hole on both sides that was at same location. Plus I'm "fixing" the rust spots with safety caps. and then I have to cut it again!!!:rofl: You got this no problem!
Very reassuring. :) Here's my weapon of choice.

Bicycle Automotive tire Bicycle frame Hood Tire


TJRUSSELL said:
You can use the 3m panel bond adhesive and spot weld it wile it's still wet.
Yes, I was thinking the same thing.
 
#134 ·
Cut looks good, this is gonna be sweet.
 
#135 ·
That looks very good, T-Jay. With that approach, once you finish it up you will not know anything was done.

Although, you might want to put an angle-finder on that receiver hitch.....:wink2:


Jeff
 
#137 ·
Remko said:
I didn't even notice that the first time around, had to go back and look again. That's hilarious. Use what you got. :laugh:
Ha! That's actually not a trailer hitch. It's just a section I cut off another tube and welded on to this one just to test my arc amps.

Remko said:
Looks great, nice and clean. Still need to get the top off it though :)
It's off now. I promise. Lol! ;-P The slot weld holes I cut this afternoon had a geyser of sparks hitting the ceiling. I would've burned the whole thing off all together if I hadn't moved it.
NashvilleTJ said:
That looks very good, T-Jay. With that approach, once you finish it up you will not know anything was done. Although, you might want to put an angle-finder on that receiver hitch.....:wink2: Jeff
Thanks. Yea I'm going for a factory look.
 
#138 ·
I ran into an annoying setback today. Apparently Raptor Liner is considered a "hazardous material". That said USPS informed my father that they won't ship it overseas. If I were shipping it myself I would have just written "paint related product" on the packing slip as I've done in the past, but my father who is shipping this one for me apparently gave them a bit too much info. So I have $200 worth of Liner held up in my fathers basement.

Out of curiosity I contacted a freight forwarder and was told it is possible to ship HAZMAT overseas by air. This gave me hope. But then I got the HAZMAT shipping quote...insane!!! $830?!? That's (x4) the cost of the liner itself!
 
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