My LJ Thread - A MrBlaine Spec'ed LJ Build for Daily Driving and Weekend Adventure - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 69 Old 09-27-2017, 10:13 PM
BimotaBruce
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Garage



4" Currie springs/CA's, TR beadlocks, 35" MTR's, D44's ARB's & 4.27's, RCV & Superior, OR241, UCF TT
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post #17 of 69 Old 09-28-2017, 10:37 AM
Kalten
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obiwanwebwheelr, I second his thoughts and location

Quote:
Originally Posted by b00mb00m View Post
I'm in PNW also, north of SEA. I would love to take a ride in your LJ when you get it rolling as I'm looking at improving my suspension to handle logging road exploration better. Stoked to see your build!

06 LJ Auto, 4" SL, Synergy Adj CA & Trackbar, 33x10.5 AT KO,
231 w/(WC,2lo,6pinion & JB-C SSYE)
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post #18 of 69 Old 09-28-2017, 09:46 PM
supereclipse
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Looking good
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post #19 of 69 Old 09-29-2017, 04:11 PM
rplowden
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As I am about to take on a very similar project with an LJ, I'm interested to find out what your plans are beyond the lift. Tires, axles, lockers, and so on.
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post #20 of 69 Old 10-01-2017, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
ObiWanWebWheelr
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For the guys up in the PNW I'll be in the King County area and would be happy to meet up for some wheeling and a test drive after the build is done and I get the rig up there. One of the goals of this thread is to document some of the parts that really work and are worth spending your hard earned money on. I'm not wealthy and can't afford to throw away money on an experiment at this point! I want the greatest total performance envelope with the least amount of risk and frustration. I can afford a new car and if you've checked prices lately a new 4x4 crew cab F150 with the Lariat package and a few bells and whistles will run you north of 50k. Don't even try to price out a new Raptor unless you are ready to see some serious sticker shock! Building an LJ really isn't a bad option and I would rather not have a huge car payment every month to worry about. I've rented and lived with roommates for many years getting to the point where I'm able to do a serious build like this in my later 30s.

Speaking of Jeep experiments being on the consumer side of the equation is difficult because of all the hype and options available in the marketplace. In most situations figuring out how and what really works with the build is harder than parting with the money and time. How can the average builder choose between a Rubicon Express kit and a Currie kit without having had previous experience with both? These days I'll go Currie but it has been a long road getting there, the Johnny Joint is just that awesome.

The fastest way to skip the frustration of testing for yourself is to learn from others. Out of all the people I've worked with on engineering projects I'll have to vouch for the quality of Blaine's design and work. He is a genuine guy who is actually rather humble despite being a real subject matter expert. It sounds like a cheesy public service announcement but he is motivated by helping and educating people. Blaine will tell you "he isn't an engineer" and in the same breath utter really intelligent comments about nuances to the design and technical details most wouldn't observe or make an effort to understand. Having worked with a zillion people from top schools like MIT and Stanford I can say for a fact there is no secret sauce in life. In the end people are just homo sapiens, apes running around in pants and a shirt with well developed math, language, and writing skills. The real measure of merit is the willingness to continue moving forward in spite of failure and difficulty. The old saying "fake it until you make it" holds true to some degree. If you are willing to move forward regardless of how rough the road gets the odds are you'll end up somewhere meaningful. Nelson Mandela survived 27 years in South Africa's prisons before he became the leader of his nation and an international symbol of perseverance. It wasn't by accident, first mover advantage, or a silver spoon. Blaine might not have a fancy engineering degree but he is surly a uniquely talented engineering mind having become a master of the art through self teaching and experimentation. He is the Michael Faraday of Jeeps... if you don't know the name give it a google.

Here are a couple more pictures from the build. I'm really stoked on how clean the work is. Everything is done the way I would do it myself.



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post #21 of 69 Old 10-01-2017, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
ObiWanWebWheelr
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With respect to plans for the build this LJ is going to be built around a 35" tire and 4" Currie spring with a Savvy body and motor mount lift. I don't want to spoil all the details coming down the pipeline but rest assured, the 190hp inline six is getting a Boosted Technologies Supercharger to give it some additional passing and climbing power. I've been borrowing my Dad's '16 JK Rubicon and the late model motors with the extra power are really nice. My 1st Jeep was a 1993 ZJ passed down from my Dad with 287,500 miles on it. Those inline 4.0L motors are bulletproof in part because they only make 190hp out of a fairly large displacement. I like having something happen when I put my foot into it and I'm excited to see how the supercharge works out. I built a 4.7L stroker motor for the ZJ back in the day and it really made a huge difference. I regret parting with it. I'm looking forward to having the extra power in the LJ. As for axles I'm using the factory Rubi Dana 44s and lockers. They were just re-geared in the last week to include 5.38s.
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post #22 of 69 Old 10-01-2017, 06:58 PM
TJ-Bville
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I like a build that keeps Jeep axles, motor etc 👍🏼

Front axle side shock mount... please don't skip any details and set up 🍻

IG Foster_WV
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post #23 of 69 Old 10-01-2017, 09:20 PM
bobthetj03
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I like these type of builds. Looks like your LJ is in good hands.

Bob's boring build:


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post #24 of 69 Old 10-06-2017, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
ObiWanWebWheelr
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The LJ build continues to march forward with the only snafu having been self inflicted. The hood that came with the LJ was all dented up so I needed to source a new one. I found the white one in the picture below at an auto recycling yard. Turns out I didn't notice a few imperfections when I picked it up. Blaine got it installed and I stopped over to have a look at things in person. Well it turns out the white hood was pretty straight but it had three areas with dents and dings. One of them was a bit of an oil can effect causing the center to pop in and out a little which means it would be hard to fix. It is hard to see in the picture but once I noticed the imperfections in person I couldn't stop thinking about it. I'm a perfectionist at times and just couldn't live with painting an imperfect hood. Naturally I'm also a moron sometimes and realized I never called the dealership to see if they could get a factory new hood. Turns out the local Jeep dealership was still able to get one and they could have it the next day. Live and learn... so I bought the factory fresh one and will have that installed and painted. The other Green TJ I mentioned at the start of this post has a pretty dented up and paint faded hood, I might end up being able to put the white one on the Green TJ. Duplicolor makes a factory matching spray paint for the Green TJ and I used that paint to do the steel highline fenders and rear corner armor. It has lasted well over almost 10 years so maybe the white one will end up being useful.



Blaine was also able to get the new cross members installed at the transfer case. I'm going with the off the shelf Savvy engine and belly skid. This Jeep isn't going to see hardcore use on the rocks for at least 5 years which is the period of time I plan to use it as a daily driver. Blaine builds a really nice heavy duty belly skid out of 3/8 aluminum but it wasn't necessary for this build. If I was going to play at the Hammers I would go that way.



Sure enough one of the most common things to fail on a late model TJ are the catalytic converters. The LJ came with exhaust which was marginal at best and on the way to total failure so it was a good idea to replace it. Especially with the planned forced induction from a supercharger. You can see the two sensors which have been added as well. These are for air-to-fuel ratio and exhaust gas temperature to help tune the fuel map when in boost.



The automatic transmission is also getting a nice cooler and a temperature gauge to keep an eye on it. The cooler will live in front of the radiator in the grill area.



The rear axle is coming back together as well and was painted up. It has been geared to 5.38 which works best with the automatic transmission. Blaine has done testing between 5.13 and 5.38 with 35" tires and the automatic transmission. He finds the 5.38s are the best with the automatic but would choose the 5.13 in a stick shift application. Again, another reason to work with somebody who has personally tried every combo of parts under the sun.



The rear axle also got a nice set of alloy shafts from Revolution.



Here are a couple shots of the new cable routing and body lift. I really like the way Blaine has designed the body lift. It retains the factory duromter bushings and adds a spacer. On other Jeeps like the Green TJ I've used various body lifts. The ones in the market all change the durometer to a stiffer bushing. When the rig is used hard and the suspension is cycling it tends to put more stress on the body tub. The Green TJ has had the tub bent around enough by the stiffer bushings to cause the doors to need some shims/spacers at the hangers to get it to latch and shut. I'll go with the MrBlaine design for any future builds. Savvy sells them.




Here is the pile of parts removed from the Jeep and heading to the recycling bin. The joints on the lower control arms are totally shot and have quite a bit of free play in them. Having tried a number of things the only joint I'll use on any Jeep is the Johnny Joint from Currie. Just don't waste your time on marketing hype and experimentation with something otherwise. The JJs have been bullet proof on KOH race trucks so I just don't see the justification to try anything else. If it ain't broke don't fix it!

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post #25 of 69 Old 10-06-2017, 04:43 PM
AlTheKillerr
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Love mid arm setups. Cant wait to see this thing out and about!

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post #26 of 69 Old 10-07-2017, 03:04 PM
b00mb00m
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What cooler and mount is that for the trans? Cooler and filter / temp gauge are my winter LJ project.
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post #27 of 69 Old 10-07-2017, 10:31 PM
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b00mb00m View Post
What cooler and mount is that for the trans? Cooler and filter / temp gauge are my winter LJ project.
It is a Setrab SLM series with a mount that I made and welded to the V bar. We've been looking for a good cooling solution in the grill that maximizes the space available, works with the steering cooler mount, has enough core depth to be effective and is a radiator style as they tend to be more efficient.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10294

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post #28 of 69 Old 10-10-2017, 07:33 PM
NashvilleTJ
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Obiwan - I'm enjoying your write-up, and I always enjoy seeing Blaine's work. I'm also partial to the LJ, so I'm looking forward to following.


Jeff

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post #29 of 69 Old 10-16-2017, 07:17 AM
GetOutside
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Great thread. Subscribed & looking fwrd 2 more!
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post #30 of 69 Old 10-16-2017, 12:31 PM
toximus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ObiWanWebWheelr View Post
Duplicolor makes a factory matching spray paint for the Green TJ and I used that paint to do the steel highline fenders and rear corner armor. It has lasted well over almost 10 years so maybe the white one will end up being useful.
I used Duplicolor when I changed out my tailgate to a drop down style. It looked great but scratched easily. A good 2k primer with a 2k clear from Eastwood and color matched urethane paint from your local auto parts store seems to be holding up much better so far. But that's just me.

Building the right way for 37s.
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