My Girl... a Boston Jeep Build - Page 133 - JeepForum.com
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post #1981 of 1986 Old 11-07-2016, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Hey guys... lots of background info on this one. Prefaced with the fact that suspension/driveline/electrical I can do well, but the engine is one thing in this that I've never really touched.

This past July I was scouting a trail in New Hampshire with a friend and what was once a shallow water crossing on a trail I've been down before turned into about 4+ feet of water. I threw it in reverse and tried to get out but the MTR/Ks up front had dropped into a hole and couldn't get out of it. I shut the Jeep off immediately as water began pouring in through the floorboards/through the doors, and hopped up on the driver's seat. I radio'd back to my friend that I'd need his winch line, and climbed out onto my rear fenders (if ever there was a plus side to steel flat fenders, being able to stand on them is key). I climbed back out onto the spare tire carrier and used my feet to fish around underwater to get the shackle on my bumper. The front end was completely underwater, winch/Rigid bar, front stinger hoop, 35" Goodyears, etc. About 4 feet. Side Note: the air intake is the old Buick mod that places the intake above the battery, so it didn't get water inside




We pulled her backwards and dried off the distributor, and sure as **** she cranked right over (albeit miserably) and poured out white smoke for a few minutes. I scooped a fish out of the floor boards (water was up to the seat level) and drained the rest. It miraculously made the 90 minute drive home on the highway, not smoothly, but at 50mph in the right lane. Sounded like it was misfiring, but I was more happy that it made it home.

I've spent the last 4 months traveling with work and attempting little fixes when I have time. It's not my daily. I've replaced:

- Each and every fluid
- Spark plugs
- Distributor cap / rotor / wires
- Distributor Pickup Coil
- Ignition coil
- TPS

The Jeep starts strong. It has the whole time, but used to then begin a rough idle (envision the sound of a Harley Davidson) after about 30 seconds. The TPS made that a little better, but after an RPM rev into the 2500 range, it would hold there for a second after I let off the gas and then stall. The Ignition coil got this to about 60+ seconds before a rough idle. The starter coil got me into the 5 minute range (including VERY strong RPMs at the 3000 range, and immediate return to idle with no hangups). I honestly thought I had resolved the problem finally, but then after about 5 minutes it became a rough idle.

That's where I'm at now. 5 minutes of a strong start and idle (I also disconnected the batter after it started one time and it remained running well, the alternator is 2 years old) but then it randomly just decided to run roughly. I was sitting in it during that last test, and it really just became rough out of nowhere.

I'm out of ideas and my local mechanic who has known the Jeep for the decade I've owned it is swamped with work and can't take a look. I need help before I burn the thing to the ground.


Interesting last note, the spark plug photo below is the plugs that were brand new in September. The Jeep has only idled in a driveway since then, with 0 miles having been put on it. Am I missing something?


^^ video of idle so you can hear it








'17 WK2 Trailhawk Expedition Build

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post #1982 of 1986 Old 11-07-2016, 08:49 AM
CrawlingForward
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Once it starts V-twinning, if you shut it off and immediately restart does it start the cycle over or does it stay the same? (Heat related or ECM program)

Was the progress after replacing components immediate or gradual? (Gradual could signal them as red herrings. Immediate would be f'ing weird.)

My first guess would be that something hot hit cold water and warped or cracked. Only once it reaches temperature is it heating up enough to change how it runs.

Have you done the propane test yet? Take a torch, open the valve, but don't light it and put it next to various intake components while listening for a change in idle to check for leaks.


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post #1983 of 1986 Old 11-07-2016, 09:01 AM
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Also, have you tried pulling the spark plugs one at a time while listening for both changes and absolutely no change to see if you can identify issues with specific cylinders?

Sorry I've only got troubleshooting tips and no definite ideas, but you've eliminated enough other factors a little more troubleshooting should hopefully narrow it down.


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post #1984 of 1986 Old 11-07-2016, 09:14 AM
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Re: sooty plugs. Too much idle will result in sooty plugs, as they do not get hot enough for long enough to burn cleanly and burn off deposits. Those are the correct results.


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post #1985 of 1986 Old 11-08-2016, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawlingForward View Post
Once it starts V-twinning, if you shut it off and immediately restart does it start the cycle over or does it stay the same? (Heat related or ECM program)

Was the progress after replacing components immediate or gradual? (Gradual could signal them as red herrings. Immediate would be f'ing weird.)

My first guess would be that something hot hit cold water and warped or cracked. Only once it reaches temperature is it heating up enough to change how it runs.

Have you done the propane test yet? Take a torch, open the valve, but don't light it and put it next to various intake components while listening for a change in idle to check for leaks.

Also, have you tried pulling the spark plugs one at a time while listening for both changes and absolutely no change to see if you can identify issues with specific cylinders?

Sorry I've only got troubleshooting tips and no definite ideas, but you've eliminated enough other factors a little more troubleshooting should hopefully narrow it down.

Re: sooty plugs. Too much idle will result in sooty plugs, as they do not get hot enough for long enough to burn cleanly and burn off deposits. Those are the correct results.
I didn't have time to test and re-test the idle issue timing. I will do that when I return to Boston at the end of next week. But the sparks were still hot when I retried these things, so it definitely hadn't cooled down.

Replacing components was 1 at a time. I do enough troubleshooting at work with concert systems to know that it's dangerous to fix multiple things at once. The TPS definitely helped... the Distributor Pickup Coil definitely worked... or made positive differences.

I had the same thought re: the cold water affecting something that badly.

No propane test, and I haven't pulled the plugs one at a time. Good thoughts, things I will do.

Good to know about the sparks. So hopefully once it IS moving, that will help burn that off. Or should I spend the $15 and replace them once this is all sorted out?

Thanks Geoff.

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post #1986 of 1986 Old 04-25-2017, 11:22 AM
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You're almost as bad at updating as I am!

Let's see some images of the new addition, updates on the TJ, etc!!!!


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