Jmart2119's Black Beauty Build - Page 48 - JeepForum.com
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post #706 of 1023 Old 04-11-2017, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by The_Goob View Post
On the 5.7 it is inside the intake attached to the spider if we are talking vortec. The spider injectors have poppet valves and they absolutely will not open without 55 PSI. I don't know if this stock Jeep pump will put that out constant. I'm sorry I haven't read more than the last page or 2 to know if you changed the pump

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I haven't changed the pump out yet. I think thats my next move. The max PSI on the stock 91-95 jeep pump is 145psi(at least thats what Oreilly's website says) so it should be enough to open the poppet valves. My TBI 2.5 only needed 14psi to run the motor so my guess is the 93 fuel pump is bad but it still provided enough pressure to run the 2.5 but its not enough to run the 5.7.


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post #707 of 1023 Old 04-11-2017, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jmart2119 View Post
I haven't changed the pump out yet. I think thats my next move. The max PSI on the stock 91-95 jeep pump is 145psi(at least thats what Oreilly's website says) so it should be enough to open the poppet valves. My TBI 2.5 only needed 14psi to run the motor so my guess is the 93 fuel pump is bad but it still provided enough pressure to run the 2.5 but its not enough to run the 5.7.
That 145 PSI is probably the max PSI the pump can handle like if you block the fuel line. It may be able to reach the 58-60 PSI Mark with the new motor but will it have enough volume to maintain it is the question. I forget the number but there's an external fuel pump that a lot of guys use on V8 swaps that might be a good option, mount it back by this tank somewhere and it should be able to pull the fuel through the existing strainer in the tank

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post #708 of 1023 Old 04-11-2017, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by The_Goob View Post
That 145 PSI is probably the max PSI the pump can handle like if you block the fuel line. It may be able to reach the 58-60 PSI Mark with the new motor but will it have enough volume to maintain it is the question. I forget the number but there's an external fuel pump that a lot of guys use on V8 swaps that might be a good option, mount it back by this tank somewhere and it should be able to pull the fuel through the existing strainer in the tank

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Here are the specs on the stock yj pump.

screen-shot-2017-04-11-2.06.44-pm.jpg

Pressure rating of 70-100 and a volume flow of 55gph. The 5.7 vortec needs 61psi and 32.4 gph so the stock pump should be adequate enough. I'm leaning towards the pump being bad. Or I have a clogged filter, pinched line or bad regulator.

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post #709 of 1023 Old 04-14-2017, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Started the morning with a faulty fuel pressure gauge from vatozone. Was hoping that wasn't a sign of things to come. Got one from oreillys. Hooked it up back at the tank and had 60psi. Tried to turn it over and the battery was dead. Jumped it and it fired right up and everything ran normal. Don't know why I didn't think of that before.


Then started on the gauges. To make this work in the stock bezels, I used a heat gun on the back side to close the openings so the spin lock ring would catch on the backside.

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Got them mounted, wired and hooked up.

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At night.

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Wired up the alternator and torque converter lockup.

Then started ripping out all the old engine and computer wiring and ended up with this rats nest.

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Feels like I'm finally starting to make some progress.
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post #710 of 1023 Old 04-16-2017, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Spent the day yesterday wrapping up the wiring. Wired in the neutral safety switch and installed the backup light kit from lokar and wired up the reverse lights. Didn't grab a picture of the back up kit.

Then spent the rest of the day taping and looming the engine bay. What an exhausting process.

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post #711 of 1023 Old 04-18-2017, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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One step forward, two steps back.

Made a couple brackets out of 3/4" stock to install the Bluesea systems fuse block to use as my PDC and got all my accessories ran to it, still need to loom the wires. Also painted up my stabilizer, stabilizer bracket, tc case shifter cover and steering box brace.

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Tried to fire her up and she wouldn't. I had no fuel pressure again. A sign of a faulty fuel pump. So looks like ill be replacing that after all. I also think I am going to have interference between the crossmember and my front driveshaft. I pick up the front driveshaft today so then I will know for sure but It looks like my crossmember is going to have to be remade. I have a leak between the clocking ring and the trans so I have to address that and Im also gonna have to figure out something with the linkage on the tcase shifter as it currently interferes with the front driveshaft as well. Gonna have to knotch the skid plate and build a drop into it for the tcase at the back if I ever get to it.

I am in Florida the week before Moab so I basically have this weekend to get this thing wrapped up or I will be a no go for Moab again.

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post #712 of 1023 Old 04-19-2017, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Picked up the front driveshaft yesterday and got some good news. My dad took a few minutes this morning to throw it on and check clearances. It does clear the crossmember and looks like there will be enough room for droop as well as I don't really get much droop from my SUA suspension anyway. I can rework the crossmember when I go SOA but I think this will get me through Moab so its one less thing on the list.

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702.jpg
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post #713 of 1023 Old 04-21-2017, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Just ordered up the Procomp MT2's from Discount Tire. Hopefully Ill be able to put them to good use in Moab.
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post #714 of 1023 Old 04-21-2017, 03:32 PM
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Lookin good man!!! Can't wait to see it wheelin in Moab!
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post #715 of 1023 Old 04-21-2017, 06:18 PM
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Just ordered up the Procomp MT2's from Discount Tire. Hopefully Ill be able to put them to good use in Moab.


I'm really curious about the quality of this tire! It's what I plan to get. Curious if the rubber is too soft to last any distance on pavement. I had one procomp set that lasted 1 year, but then had original MTs and they lasted 5 years on a DD.

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post #716 of 1023 Old 04-21-2017, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cKruzer
I'm really curious about the quality of this tire! It's what I plan to get. Curious if the rubber is too soft to last any distance on pavement. I had one procomp set that lasted 1 year, but then had original MTs and they lasted 5 years on a DD.
I can let you know. My MTRS lasted me a year and half and now they won't balance so I definitely will not be going with them ever again. I'm curious about these too but a lot of the reviews are good ones and I like the tread pattern on them. Time will tell how well they wear though.
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post #717 of 1023 Old 04-22-2017, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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Jmart2119's Black Beauty Build

Put the new fuel pump in this morning and she fires right up every time I start her now.

Then got to work wrapping up all the wiring under the dash and finally got rid of my green pedals that I had since high school. Just went back to stock. I just cut off the clutch pedal and zip tied the rest of it out of the way. I don't have time to mess with it before Moab. I'll source a stock auto brake pedal later this summer.

Then got to work wrapping up the crossmember. Here is the adapter plate that was cut up to work with the 4L60E.

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And the crossmember reinstalled.

704.jpg

Then got the NP 241 shifter from the truck installed.


705.jpg

The shifter linkage in its stock location was right in the way of the front driveshaft as expected. So we took it out of the shifter, heated it up and bent it the exact opposite of the way it was stock so that it clears the driveshaft.

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Had to clearance the tub for the rear driveshaft.

707.jpg

Then installed the driveshafts and took it for its first spin around the block. I still have a small leak of ATF coming from the clocking ring so I still have to address that.

Poser shot of her almost wrapped up.

708.jpg

Have to address the leak. Install the tunnel cover and shift boot. And get the skid plate installed. I don't have time to make a 1" drop to account for the tcase being below the frame rails. So instead I'm going to throw in my old tcase drop and use it as a spacer to allow for the tcase just to get through moab. I'll fab in the drop later this summer. I'm going to have to notch the skid for the front driveshaft still and then it's off to the exhaust shop and get the tires mounted on Tuesday. If everything goes well, looks like I'll finish it up in time to make Moab.
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post #718 of 1023 Old 04-24-2017, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Got the leak of ATF between the clocking ring and the tcase sealed up today.

Then test fitted the tunnel cover. Cut out the hole for the shifter and drilled the holes for it.

709.jpg

Then painted it and installed the shift boot. It's a little to small so I will have to get a bigger one but this will do for now.

710.jpg

Then got the steering box brace installed.

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While installing it I found the source of my death wobble. The bolts that came with the partsmike bracket were too long and didn't snug the steering box up tight. Replaced them with some shorter ones and got it nice and tight.

Then I got the winch plate and the warn winch installed.

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And took it for a drive for for about 20 mins down to the exhaust shop. Zero death wobble and the steering was nice and tight. I'll pick it up from the exhaust shop and then take it down to discount and get the new tires mounted then I will finally get to drive it home!
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1989 YJ - 98 5.7L Vortec, 4L60E, NP241, D30+8.8, 5.13's, 35" ProComp MT2's
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post #719 of 1023 Old 04-25-2017, 10:11 PM
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Looking good Jake, glad to see you are on schedule for the trip. We're gonna have to have us a V8 drag race with Ashland.

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For a wounded man shall say to his assailant "If I live I will kill you, if I die you are forgiven". Such is the rule of honor - Omerta
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post #720 of 1023 Old 04-25-2017, 11:08 PM
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What shifter boot did you use? I got the Lokar one and its stupid cheap, would like something a little better

'95 YJ 2.5L
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