Jerry The '82 DJ-5M - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 40 Old 01-03-2021, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Now shipping of my hub conversion kit got changed to 1/19 stop playing with my heart! haha


Does anyone know of a good place where I can read about leaf spring/axle suspension set up and design? Its something Iv never done before and Im not sure where to start with the links and traction bars and so on. How many if any do I need, what length, what angle, and so on.
I spent some time on google but Im not finding what I need. Iv got fat books on race car suspension set up for track cars, but I need to find a good source for leaf spring 4x4 suspension set up.


“Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence.”
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post #17 of 40 Old 01-04-2021, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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And now the shipping date is the 22nd! Man this is killing me.
I’m going to give up waiting and just try and move my frame outside as is. I’ll just need to find some help. Get working on the cab.

“Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence.”
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post #18 of 40 Old 01-04-2021, 12:45 PM
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Most leaf spring suspensions don't use track bars. the Jeep YJ had them mostly for
the lawyers. many people remove them as I have done. you can run anti roll bars if you
choose.

There are some traction bar options for the rear, they need to move or pivot around the same point
as the solid end of the leaf so as to not bind when the suspension cycles.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...AaAgTYEALw_wcB

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...AaApvoEALw_wcB

Shock placement and valving are an important consideration, and lots of CJs convert to YJ style springs.

I'm sure many will chime in as there a lot of opinions depending on how and where the Jeep will be used. LOL

Whats over that next ridge?
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post #19 of 40 Old 01-04-2021, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Low2G0 View Post
Most leaf spring suspensions don't use track bars. the Jeep YJ had them mostly for
the lawyers. many people remove them as I have done. you can run anti roll bars if you
choose.

There are some traction bar options for the rear, they need to move or pivot around the same point
as the solid end of the leaf so as to not bind when the suspension cycles.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...AaAgTYEALw_wcB

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...AaApvoEALw_wcB

Shock placement and valving are an important consideration, and lots of CJs convert to YJ style springs.

I'm sure many will chime in as there a lot of opinions depending on how and where the Jeep will be used. LOL

Thanks for that info!


Got the cab in the shop tonight. Let the rust removal begin!
Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr
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post #20 of 40 Old 01-10-2021, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Got a bunch done on the Jeep cab yesterday. Got almost all the paint off the exterior and covered my whole shop in a thick layer of grey dust.
Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr



Started cutting some rust out here and there as well. Mostly the floor pans. I think Im going to cut the entire floor out because its so dented and warn out, which will also give me an opportunity to frame the floor in with some 1x1" or something to make the body more ridged and make the floor stronger to walk on and put heavy things on. Im not going to cut any more out before I get some framing in so the body doesn't move around way to much.
Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr
Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

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post #21 of 40 Old 01-10-2021, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Little shop tour. This used to be my wood working shop, but I down sized and rented half my shop space out when covid hit to make some extra money.

Still need to figure a few more storage salutations out and get my wood and metal cut offs figured out. I really want to build a new welding cart that will fit my Hobart 140 and my plasma cutter.



From left to right.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr
Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr
Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

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post #22 of 40 Old 01-31-2021, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Got the rear floor in today. Just spent a bit of time after work cutting the old one out and prepping for the new one so I could just cut and weld pieces in Saturday morning.

I got some cleco fasteners/clamps that were really great to work with. If your doing sheet metal, Id highly recommend picking some up. You can get a bag of them with the tool for about $50.
I just framed everything in with 1x1 .120 wall and put some 16 gauge down on it. Iv got some more work to do to fill in gaps and tie the floor into the sides of the body better. Iv got a tool coming in mid next week to help me do that with some sheet metal bending.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Oh and my hub locker kit finally showed up!



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

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post #23 of 40 Old 02-13-2021, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Im finishing up the floor, and I need to drill new body mount holes in the cab floor. I am having a hard time measuring for the front 4 holes (2 located under the driver and passenger seats). Measuring off the old floor I still have isnt working. The holes are all oval and stretched out, and Im getting different measurements on all 4 wholes by as much as 1/2".

If anyone has a DJ they could measure from, that would be a huge help! Or maybe some one knows where I can find the measurements online.

I looked on Google and could not find what I needed. I also posted in the CJ/DJ sub forum but it doesn't look like Ill get lucky in there.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

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post #24 of 40 Old 02-13-2021, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Iv been doing a lot of reading today and this is what Iv settled on for an engine/trans/drive line combo.


Engine:
Some kind of LS based truck engine like an LY2 or Vortec. Not sure what the best choice is yet.
Trans:
4L60-E
Transfer Case:
Np241
Diff Gears:
4:10 front gears with a Spartan locker and manual hubs
4:11 rear gears (OX doesnt make a 4:10 for the D35 and I read the difference doesn't matter) and an electric OX locker
35" tires

Iv already upgraded the axles to Yukon chrome moly axles and put better U joints up front.

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post #25 of 40 Old 02-16-2021, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Well this is where Im at right now. I gently set the body down on its back side, because I figured it would be the easiest way to work on the underside of the cab. I think to get it back on the frame Im gona frame a beam into my shop and use a chain hoist to lift it up and onto the frame.

I did manage to get some body mount location measurements from some one I fallow on Instagram, so thats good.

I still have to clean up and prime the rear wheel wells, and I ran out of seam sealer, so Im waiting on that to show up later this week.

I had fun doing all the little gussets to get all my sheet metal connected and add some strength. There were a few points on the body where the factory panels had moved so much that the sheet metal had actually cracked and ripped. Hoping to avoid that happening again.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr

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post #26 of 40 Old 04-01-2021, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Its been a while but I'v started making progress again.
I finally got all the surface rust, dirt, and tar off the bottom of the body and gave it a quick coat of primer and some seam sealer. I still have a few odds and ends to wrap up down there but I'm going to forget about them till I take the body off for paint later on.



Getting that tedious and dirty job done let me get the cab mounted on the frame. It was a bit of a struggle. I did a lot of measuring to get the cab centered and squared up on the frame, and to get the bolt holes in the correct place. After all of the checking and double checking, some of the holes did not line up well at all. It also looked like the cab could move forward on the frame a bit. I figured I F'ed up some where, so I checked all my work and it was all ok.



Turns out the factory Jeep mounting brackets on the frame were all in different places. Some were a 1/4-1/2" different from each other. Now I know why the holes in the factory floor were all in different places. I figured it was just ware and tare, but I think they were drilled that way from the factory. I wonder how they did it. A lot of the factory sheet metal work is real pore. Horrible welds, and a lot of points where things just don't line up at all.


Center line on the back bumper.


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Center at the front of the cab.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr



So ones I had things back in place, I drilled some large holes in about the right place, and welded a piece of tube into the floor framing to get the holes in the correct places. Technically this should be way stronger then I was originally planning on doing things, because now those bolts cant squeeze the square tube together at all.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


I put the a fender, and the front clip back on to check my placement and it all seams to be working. Sadly the CJ body mount kit I got does not have the front clip bushings I need. Ill have to make my own I think, with a DIY liquid polyurethane kit. Its fun getting a little peak at what it will look like when its done. You can see it if you squint really hard.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Since the wheel base changed Im going to have to modify the wheel arches a bit. Im thinking Ill cut them out in the back, get them centered on the wheels, and weld them back in.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


I test fit these lights the other day for ****s and giggles. Hooked them up for a quick test.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


The break lights have the turn signal in the center, two in one, so I can delete the little hole for the factory signal light.



Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr


And that's about it. This weekend Im going to continue sheet metal work. I need to fix some rust around the bottom of the rear windows, fill in two patches, move the wheel arches, and a whole bunch of other little stuff.



After that its going to be time to start looking for an engine and trans. If anyone knows of a 4.8 Chevy/GMC V8 or a good 4L60-E let me know.

“Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence.”
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post #27 of 40 Old 04-01-2021, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Oh I also started rebuilding the front diff. Got the spartan locker installed and have a set of 4:10 gears from Yukon sitting on my bench. I'm going to keep it as a project to do while I'm waiting on other parts to show up.
Iv never re-geared a 4x4 before so I'm not sure how the 4:10 gears will be with 33' tires and a V8. I did some research and talked to a friend about it. I guess If I don't like them Ill move to a different gear set later.

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post #28 of 40 Old 04-02-2021, 11:57 AM
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Good to see progress, Looks good so far. great to see a DJ build

I like the idea of moving the arches back, maybe you can cut and swap side to side
for less surgery to get them in the right place.
Hope you can keep the sliding doors, My favorite feature of a DJ

4.10s with a V8 Automatic combo should work OK with 33s, some will say to go deeper.

You may want to run sway bars once you get it driving, with the steel top the DJ has
it will have more body roll than an open CJ.

Whats over that next ridge?
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post #29 of 40 Old 04-03-2021, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Low2G0 View Post
Good to see progress, Looks good so far. great to see a DJ build

I like the idea of moving the arches back, maybe you can cut and swap side to side
for less surgery to get them in the right place.
Hope you can keep the sliding doors, My favorite feature of a DJ

4.10s with a V8 Automatic combo should work OK with 33s, some will say to go deeper.

You may want to run sway bars once you get it driving, with the steel top the DJ has
it will have more body roll than an open CJ.

Thanks man. Yeah I am going to try and keep the sliding doors. Right now its looking like they will clear the tires. So thats nice. Ones I get further along I will test fit them. Good idea on swapping the arches side to side, Ill take a look at that this weekend.



As fare as the gears go I think Im just going to have to experience them and then make my mind up. My Toyota has horrible gears for the wheel/tire size right now and I hate it.



Im planning on ruining the Antirock universal sway bars on my Jeep. The track width is also a bit wider then stock with the Xj axles and the wider tires. Should help a bit as well with stability.

“Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence.”
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post #30 of 40 Old 04-07-2021, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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I spent more money in one day yesterday then I have in a long time. I hate and love it, always makes me really nervous spending large amounts. Its not a lot for some but for most of us it is.

This engine is going to be overkill, but it was the same price as a 4.8 or 5.3 so I went for it. Plus it was very local, maybe 11 minutes from my house.

'05 LQ9 iron block from a Cadillac SUV. I also ordered a Mad Dog Trans 4L65e built for 500hp. Im not planning on running anywhere near that amount of power, just keep it stock, so I figure that trans should be strong enough for my needs.

Untitled by Jeremy Nugent, on Flickr
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