Jeep Cherokee with Supra 1jz Twin Turbo Engine - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 3 Old 04-22-2012, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
Lu6fer
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1994 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
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Jeep Cherokee with Supra 1jz Twin Turbo Engine

Hokay so, the plan is to swap a Supra 1jz gte into a 2dr Jeep Cherokee Laredo Sport. The transition happens at the clutch; a Toyota’s flywheel/pressure plate/clutch disk material, and the Jeep’s clutch disk hub.

The purpose of this thread is to take the hours of research on my end and condense them into brief, accurate, usable data for anyone else doing a swap like this. This project is not completed yet, so input is appreciated.

The reason I am doing this swap is to have the power and reliability of the 1jz gte and combine it with 4wd and huge fricken tires. The engine size reduction will immensely help my MPG, as well as the fact that my Jeep is lighter than a Supra.

Future plans are one giant turbo instead of two, nicer rims, auto-tune system, rear disk brakes, different rear suspension, and fabrication to the interior like crazy.

Here is what I have so far:

Truck: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Sport with the 4.0 High Output inline six and an automatic transmission. $800. It’s actually my profile picture. I have the engine and transmission out, ready for a new owner if I can find anybody. I need new motor mounts for the 1jz and they need to be in different places.

Engine: 1989-1996 Toyota Supra JDM 1jz-gte 2.5 liter inline six twin turbo. $1300. This engine was bought off ebay and is REAR SUMP. It took me a lot of research to find that this is necessary if it is being swapped into a Jeep with the steering and anti sways. This engine has 45,000 miles on it, came with turbos, water pump, power steering, AC compressor, intake and exhaust manifolds, but no starter and no transmission. This engine also has the post-recall type EGR valve. This simply means that the ventilation hose from the head plugs into the intake ‘downwind’ of the rubber connection hoses (bellows), but just before (upwind) of the intercooler.

Transmission: 1992 Jeep AX15 5 speed. $900 with overhaul. I found this transmission at a junkyard and bought for $300 with the transfer case, bell housing, clutch, flywheel, and drive shafts. The overhaul was about $600. This transmission uses a 10 spline input shaft with a 1 1/8 diameter. The pilot bearing end has a diameter of .5905” or 15mm. This transmission is made by Aisin Warner, the same company that makes the beefier but only RWD Toyota Surpa 5 speed, the R154. The engine side of transmission shares the same bolt pattern as the R154, so the bell housing from a 1jz/R154 will bolt right up. The input shaft is a little shorter on theR154 than the AX15, so that may lead you to believe that the R154’s bell housing should be a little shorter than the AX15’s. Mostly wrong. I found this one through experience. The flywheel/pressure plate fingers combination on the Jeep is a farther distance from the engine than that of the Toyota’s. Since the input of the Jeep is longer, I thought a spacer would be needed to extend the bell housing of the Toyota. In reality, I ended up needing a 1 inch spacer to extend the slave cylinder farther from the transmission. In addition to that, I had to cut off the tip of the input shaft a quarter of an inch. A different way this could’ve been done is with a quarter inch spacer for the bell housing (so the input shaft doesn’t bottom out on the crank), and a inch and a quarter spacer for the slave cylinder. Either way, the slave has to be closer to the fingers of the jz style pressure plate fingers.

Clutch and Flywheel and Pressure plate: Competition Clutch stage 3+ 2jz ge lightweight flywheel and pressure plate (because the 2jz ge is push style clutch, whereas the 1jz gte is pull style) and 1jz clutch disk with AX15 hub (10 spline x 1 1/8 diameter). $800. All jz motors have identical 8-bolt flywheel pattern to the crank. The 2jz ge flywheel is 2mm smaller in diameter (overall) than the 1jz gte. According to Advance Auto Parts, they take the same starter, so the 2mm is negligible. The stage 3+ disk is hardly street drivable. Harsh engagement, but it’s ceramic and not stone like the stage 4. All upgrades pressure plates have the same force down on the clutch disk. It’s a matter of how grabby the actual disk is.

Pilot Bearing: 15mm ID, 32mm OD. $15. It fits, trust me. At the back of the crank shaft where the flywheel attaches, there is a hole for the pilot bearing. On the 1jz gte, there is a deeper hole inside of that hole that is a little narrower. This is actually where the pilot bearing is supposed to go on this engine. However, it was impossible to attain a bearing of that size. So I measured the first (and bigger) hole. It is 32mm, and wouldn’t you know that’s a standard size bearing! 15mm fits over the input with clearance (doesn’t have to be hammered on) and 32mm fits in the crank with interference. I may be using the wrong part of the hole, but I am still centered with the crank. So that doesn’t matter.

Slave Cylinder/Throw Out Bearing: AX15 internal slave. $86. The pressure plate teeth of the 2jz ge move .3” between disengagement and engagement. As mentioned previously, I had a 1” spacer made between the slave and the transmission. That cost 60 dollars at a metal shop and they just had to keep the male/female fittings the same so the slave will keep its spot as the input spins. I had it made to 1” so the clutch won’t catch as it’s just let off, but about 1/3 of the way from the start of its entire throw.

This is all that I know as of now. I currently have the engine and transmission out, about to try fitting in the Supra engine with the AX15 attached. I’ll keep updating as I make progress.

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post #2 of 3 Old 04-25-2012, 05:35 PM
foxx
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This great. I was think of a 2jz swap. If you have any pictures could you please post them. Or I can send you my email. Thanks.
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post #3 of 3 Old 06-06-2020, 11:48 PM
Lost_Sheep_
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This thread still live? Very eager to hear how the swap went and what was fully involved.

After getting a knocking in the engine i wanna swap it to something new and thinking to go 1jz or 2jz. Would love to hear what you did with the ECU
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