High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story - Page 50 - JeepForum.com
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post #736 of 750 Old 06-26-2020, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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Here's a video of many of the trails and hills we did last weekend. I think our group was having too much fun wheeling to take video of the climbs so I'm not sure if any videos of my Jeep will ever turn up.



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post #737 of 750 Old 07-02-2020, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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I cleaned the mud off my Jeep and surveyed the damage:



I can only figure a small rock found it's way on top of the johnny joint and got smashed into the bracket:


The heat treated 4340 steering is still straight as day 1:


The diff skids saw some action:


Just a little rock rash on the beadlocks:


I somehow got rash on the top side of the rear flare.


Something found the corner:


I had been thinking about color matching all of the armor to red and doing touch ups every now and again but I'm starting to think I might be better off leaving it raw aluminum.

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post #738 of 750 Old 07-08-2020, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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The new driver side half door sometimes wouldn't open with the exterior door latch unless I'd push the door in while opening. I took a look inside and adjusted the linkage so it opens perfectly every time.

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post #739 of 750 Old 07-25-2020, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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I've been meaning to get armor on the doors for a while now. During my first trip out back in May I tapped the driver's side door in against a friend's bumper going past him on a trail he was stuck on -- he was okay with it but I wasn't quite ready for that kind of damage. The next trip out, just by luck, I narrowly missed the door again with a rock that jutted out on a hill climb.

I thought I was taking the easy route by buying Genright's half door armor. And you all know by now how excited I get with kits. Of course the kit had to disappoint me because it seems that they laid out the bolts using CAD instead of using an actual door except at the front where they had some fear of putting a nutsert into the "hat" so I had to place those myself.





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post #740 of 750 Old 07-26-2020, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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I had sneaked a little peak at this last month, but I finally finished the front fender area armor panels.

Template:



I originally was going to tie into the windshield frame brackets but these are at a different angle so rather than risk a sloppy fit I shortened the panel:



I sealed off the radio antenna hole with 3M protective film:



I popped the Jeep logo a couple of times to allow the panel to sit flush with the body. When installing it's easier to start with the bottom nuterts, bolt on the panel, and then work on the top nutserts.



I made sure each nutsert was located precisely to fit into cavities on the body. If needed another could be added just below the seam on the tub (above the lower hinge).



For countersinking all of these bolts I have found that a piloted through-hole countersink gives the nicest finish on aluminum and it doesn't require a drill press to get good results. https://www.mcmaster.com/2739A66/



This panel does firm up the front fenders and grill and prevents them from flopping around so much. I'd say the front clip now moves around about as much as with stock fenders. Some movement is needed up front so the body doesn't distort or crack when the Jeep flexes so hopefully I don't end up with unwanted side effects.

The result is true wheel to wheel armor so I can slide the Jeep along a rock down the entire length.

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post #741 of 750 Old 07-27-2020, 06:36 AM
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Now that you have all of that raw aluminum with different finishes... what are you going to do with it? Brush it all to match, paint it, maybe spend a bunch of hours and engine turn it?

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241/HP Dana44/9", Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT



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post #742 of 750 Old 07-27-2020, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
Now that you have all of that raw aluminum with different finishes... what are you going to do with it? Brush it all to match, paint it, maybe spend a bunch of hours and engine turn it?
I haven't decided yet. Originally I wanted to paint it all color matched flame red for a classic look. I think I'll check back in after a few more trips out to see how many scratches I really end up getting. If it's enough that touching up paint will be a hassle I'll leave it raw and maybe see if polishing can help even out the look. If my last trip is anything to go by, I'm going to be better off leaving it raw.
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post #743 of 750 Old 07-27-2020, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus View Post
I haven't decided yet. Originally I wanted to paint it all color matched flame red for a classic look. I think I'll check back in after a few more trips out to see how many scratches I really end up getting. If it's enough that touching up paint will be a hassle I'll leave it raw and maybe see if polishing can help even out the look. If my last trip is anything to go by, I'm going to be better off leaving it raw.
Yeah... I would think a brushed finish would be your best bet. Easy to level back out after scratching it up with just a scotch brite pad.

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241/HP Dana44/9", Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT



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post #744 of 750 Old 07-31-2020, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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I'm cleaning my workshop and working on Mrs Toximus's Jeep while waiting for everything to come in for the engine swap.

I got my other set of doors up off the floor:

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post #745 of 750 Old 08-02-2020, 06:12 PM
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weee! looking forward to seeing this engine swap!

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post #746 of 750 Old 08-03-2020, 12:14 PM
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What drill bits and rivnut tool are you using?

04 LJ - LS1-4L80E-Atlas-40's-4link F/R-Full hydro-2.5" Radflo's...
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post #747 of 750 Old 08-03-2020, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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What drill bits and rivnut tool are you using?
I've given up on cheap bits and have been buying them from McMaster-Carr. There's probably good quality ones for cheaper, I just haven't found them. Most are cobalt, some of my frequently used bits I went with coated cobalt.

For the rivnuts I'm using a Marson 325-RN. I'd never go back to the DIY method. A year ago Blaine mentioned an even better pneumatic one he had just picked up and was quite pleased with, said it was better in every way than the manual style, you might want to ask him which it was.

Did that answer your question?

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post #748 of 750 Old Yesterday, 07:44 AM
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Yup! I made my own armor at work last week, which means all the holes need countersunk. It only took about 2 hours on friday to get so fed up with it I had to stop. I was using what I thought were nice bits, 4-5 broken ones later apparently not. Counter sinking all of those holes really sucked, was using a 4 flute countersink. And then to top it off the DIY rivnut method absolutely blows. I ruined more rivnut's than I actually put in.
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post #749 of 750 Old Yesterday, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g23crawler View Post
Yup! I made my own armor at work last week, which means all the holes need countersunk. It only took about 2 hours on friday to get so fed up with it I had to stop. I was using what I thought were nice bits, 4-5 broken ones later apparently not. Counter sinking all of those holes really sucked, was using a 4 flute countersink. And then to top it off the DIY rivnut method absolutely blows. I ruined more rivnut's than I actually put in.
I assume that you are fighting this battle with a hand drill? Find someone with a drill press. The countersinks will be much more accurate as well as significantly easier. Even a cheap benchtop drill press works. I just did all of the countersinks for my skid plate on my cheap benchtop drill press.

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241/HP Dana44/9", Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT



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post #750 of 750 Old Today, 08:08 AM
NashvilleTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
I assume that you are fighting this battle with a hand drill? Find someone with a drill press. The countersinks will be much more accurate as well as significantly easier. Even a cheap benchtop drill press works. I just did all of the countersinks for my skid plate on my cheap benchtop drill press.

Multi flute counter sinks chatter, sometimes even in a press, and always in a hand drill. Iíve moved to high quality single flute counter sinks which work very well, and no chatter. Although, high quality singles are certainly not cheap.

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