High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story - Page 42 - JeepForum.com
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post #616 of 623 Old 03-22-2020, 01:42 PM
Kalten
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2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Im not 100% positive but I believe the best way to cut the hole is using a soldering iron. Lay the soft top window over a piece of glass when you do it. No harm should come to either other than the hole exactly where you want it. The hole will have a heat sealed edge and not a nick that could possibly allow it to run.

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06 LJ Auto, 4" SL, Synergy Adj CA & Trackbar, 33x10.5 AT KO,
231 w/(WC,2lo,6pinion & JB-C SSYE)
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post #617 of 623 Old 03-25-2020, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Rhinelander
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Originally Posted by Kalten View Post
I’m not 100% positive but I believe the best way to “cut” the hole is using a soldering iron. Lay the soft top window over a piece of glass when you do it. No harm should come to either other than the hole exactly where you want it. The hole will have a heat sealed edge and not a nick that could possibly allow it to run.
I've been worries about the window having issues too. I'm hoping to still find a junk window to practice on and will try the heat idea.

Building the right way for 37s.
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post #618 of 623 Old 03-25-2020, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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I added Dynamat Xtreme sound deadening to the fuel cell to quiet the pump and fuel splashing noises. It helped a lot with removing the splashing and squirting sounds but there is still pump noise. I'd say the noise is now tolerable. I still plan to add a cover over the fuel cell and will add another layer of sound deadening to the inside of the cover once I get to that.

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Building the right way for 37s.
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post #619 of 623 Old 03-25-2020, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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I rigged up a remote filler neck. I was able to place the gas cap further forward so that the window isn't blocked when looking in the blind spot. The downside is that means the driver's seat can't fully recline. I tested it with a gas can and it worked well. Next I'll test it at the station pump before committing a hole in my window.

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post #620 of 623 Old 03-25-2020, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
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The gas station pump filled 8 gallons for a total of roughly 13 gallons in the cell and then gas puked out the filler neck. I checked the fuel line and there's room for another ~8 gallons (roughly 6" from the top) so I don't think it was simply overflowing.

I noticed that the roll over valves aren't venting when fueling and instead air is rushing up the filler neck so my theory is that I need a separate vent for fueling to prevent escaping air from pushing fuel up.


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post #621 of 623 Old 03-26-2020, 08:49 AM
YourWorstEnemy
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The gas station pump filled 8 gallons for a total of roughly 13 gallons in the cell and then gas puked out the filler neck. I checked the fuel line and there's room for another ~8 gallons (roughly 6" from the top) so I don't think it was simply overflowing.

I noticed that the roll over valves aren't venting when fueling and instead air is rushing up the filler neck so my theory is that I need a separate vent for fueling to prevent escaping air from pushing fuel up.

Aw man that stinks...hope it didnt get gas inside your rig...hope you figure it out soon
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post #622 of 623 Old 03-27-2020, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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I'm putting aside the remote filler neck while parts come in to work on shock tuning.

With the tune Fox included with the coilovers and the compression adjusters turned all the way down my Jeep feels like the suspension hits a bump, the shocks get packed up, and they aren't traveling back down by the time the Jeep drives off the back side of the bump. Simply put it physically hurts to ride in. I discussed how it felt with my shock tuner, discussed specs of my build, and sent a couple of pictures so he could get an idea of the build he'd be tuning for. I also asked if he'd possibly let me do the work myself to minimize downtime and to my surprise he sent me the shims to do the work myself! I promised not to share the secret sauce so unlike 99.9% of my build I'm not allowed to discuss the specifics of what shims I'm using. Sorry! We are allowed to discuss theory however so I promise it'll be interesting!

To get a better idea of how a good tune should function, my tuner recommended watching videos of trophy trucks. Some trucks such as Andy McMillin's the tires are constantly moving around, others such as Robby Gordon's the tires stay more static in relation to the body. A good tune maintains contact with the ground which allows for traction and prevents pulling as contact is lost.

On a basic level how these shocks work is there is oil in the shock body that the shock shaft travels through. On the end of the shock shaft there is a piston with shims on it. The shims control how the piston and shaft move through the oil. When the shock is compressed the shaft travels into the body of the shock and since the oil can't be compressed there is a remote reservoir with compressed nitrogen inside. A piston inside of the reservoir separates the oil from the nitrogen.

In a Jeep tune putting a flutter stack into the shims is nice to have. This allows the piston in the shock to have a small break away pressure when hitting small road events but another stack of shims prevent the flutter from cracking open too wide. I think of it as a door stop allowing a door to easily be opened a small amount quickly but requires a lot more force to open the door all the way.

My front shocks are getting a tried and true tune that may require slight changes later, but the rear is more experimental which will probably require a few alterations over time.

I removed the coilovers from my Jeep and prepped my workbench for a weekend of shock tuning! By having a vice on each end of the workbench I'll be able to hold the shock body in one and hold the shaft in the other.


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post #623 of 623 Old 03-28-2020, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
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To prevent contamination inside the shock I wiped the bodies down with WD-40.



These small shims effect how the shock handles by covering ports in the piston.







I charged them all up to 200 psi and while I was at it I reduced the pressure on the air bumps significantly.

After that first shock took me just over an hour, the others I had retuned in about 30 minutes each. What took the longest is mounting them back on the Jeep and dialing in preload again.

A couple of special tools that came in handy are having a lossless airchuck, and a multifunctional shock wrench.
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