High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story - Page 38 - JeepForum.com
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post #556 of 626 Old 01-12-2020, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
Any room to bring the axle forward at all? Even a little movement may help.
Unfortunately that'll cause the track bar to hit early against the diff cover and I'd need to readjust the bumpstops lower. Worst case I can remove the front airbumps.

I'm cruising Google Images for a fitting with a longer section of tube to clear the bumpstop before getting into the crimp portion. Somewhere in the ballpark of 3-1/2" length of tube. So far I've found what's called a "long drop" fitting but the extended portion is on the wrong side of the 90*. Does anyone know of such a fitting? It can be crimp or field serviceable. I created a mockup of what I'm looking for:




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post #557 of 626 Old 01-12-2020, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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Earlier this week I sent my steering gear off to PSC to adjust which torsion bar is in it. So my Jeep is parked until I get it back.

When ordering the -12 AN fittings for the steering pump feed hose I was sent the wrong blue/red color and was told to keep them and was refunded my order since they were unable to get the correct color for me. I reordered the silver color from another store and they've been on back order since October. I finally got them on Friday and while I have a steering fluid mess going on I figured there's no better time to swap the hose.


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post #558 of 626 Old 01-12-2020, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus View Post
Earlier this week I sent my steering gear off to PSC to adjust which torsion bar is in it.

Torsion bar?

TC
Crawling For Reid March 23, 2019 Adventure Off-road Park
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post #559 of 626 Old 01-12-2020, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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I cut the cargo area carpet to fit around the fuel cell. This should help cut down some noise. It seems like the short piece is staying put but if it moves around I'll put a strip of velcro under it. The wheel arch carpet will be going in after I secure the coilover covers (after I'm "done" tuning so removing the COs is easier).



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post #560 of 626 Old 01-12-2020, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tchaap View Post
Torsion bar?
By changing the torsion bar size it will change the input effort of the driver to turn the steering. It was also why I changed the steering pump pulley to a smaller one so there'd be increased flow at idle.

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post #561 of 626 Old 01-12-2020, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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I custom ordered a tire tie down strap from Mac's. It's their 1" strap lengthened for a 37" tire. Normally they use a 2" strap and larger ratchet but I think it's overkill for this position. This 1" strap is rated to 2800lb minimum breaking strength. The spare tire is already wedged in the tub so all I'm looking to do by adding a strap is to prevent the tire from flying in the event of a rollover.



The ends are light weight adjustable loops. The tire is still quick to release by undoing the ratchet -- the loops don't need to be touched.




(Painting the beadlock ring was something I tried. However I think I'm going to strip it back to raw aluminum.)

I'm starting to assemble my Jeep tool kit, spare parts, and recovery gear. Once I can lay it out and see the physical size I'm going to figure out how to best pack them in the Jeep.
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post #562 of 626 Old 01-12-2020, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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To install the center rock lights I drilled and tapped 2 holes in the body mounts to #10-24. I had some leftover bolts that were the perfect length to thread into the body mount without sticking out on top -- little things like that make it nice when you run your hand over it and don't snag skin.

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post #563 of 626 Old 01-14-2020, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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I split the fuel pump wiring harness under the Jeep to add a connector. This way the body can be separated from the frame without cutting wires if ever needed in the future.


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post #564 of 626 Old 01-14-2020, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus
There's some noise coming from contact between the driveline and tub that I need to solve that I couldn't hear before
I think I found where the noise was coming from. The transmission lines were pressed against the driver's floor. They had already done a good job of denting the tub so I finished the job by wedging a prybar between them and made some room.


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post #565 of 626 Old 01-26-2020, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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I cut the Savvy skid stiffener to clear the muffler.

First I traced the stiffener onto a cardboard template and traced around the muffler:



The plasma torch was used for a rough cut followed up with a flap disc:



A perfect fit:



I did not add any plating to spread the load across this area. The remaining material should be sufficient but I'll keep an eye on it after the skid gets some hard hits.
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post #566 of 626 Old 02-17-2020, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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The upper mini-cats can burn unburned fuel and mess with the true air to fuel ratio. To get an accurate reading on the AFR gauge I decided to gut them. This will allow me to get a better tune into the engine and hopefully in the end will be better for the environment compared to running the engine too rich. The lower cat will be staying as there's only benefits of keeping it.

I took some readings on previous test drives so I can compare and see if removing the cats before the AFR sensor makes any difference.




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post #567 of 626 Old 02-17-2020, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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You may remember that my AFR sensor hit the engine skid brace and needed to be moved.

I wire brushed the surface clean and drilled a 7/8" hole for the new bung.



The bung is Summing Racing part number SUM-G2990SS.



I welded it in place with a plug screwed in to keep the threads from distorting. Normal carbon steel wire would have worked but due to my location being favorable to rust I opted to use a small 2# spool of 308L stainless welding wire to weld the bung in (Hobart H522506-R19 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DZG11S/). I didn't want to invest in tri-mix gas so I used C25 which seemed to work fine but with more splatter than is normal.



I applied antiseize to the plugs and sensors and bolted the exhaust back up. Now there's plenty of room!


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post #568 of 626 Old 02-17-2020, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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The exhaust shifted slightly and moved the tailpipe closer to the frame. I took it off again to whack it a couple of times with a ballpeen hammer to clearance around the rear control arm mount.


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post #569 of 626 Old 02-17-2020, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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While I was tidying up the AFR wiring under the hook I finally terminated the ends of the rock light wiring. I decided to run each light/area to it's own fuse so if one wire gets pinched offroad it won't take out all of the lights. It also allowed me to use a lower fuse rating so a shorted wire will be more likely to blow the fuse than spark against the frame.

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post #570 of 626 Old 02-17-2020, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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I appreciate everyone's help looking for a hydroassist fitting but unfortunately I was unable to find a fitting for my HA cylinder that would work off the shelf. Thankfully @mrblaine figured out a wonderfully simple solution. He cut two 90* fittings and brazed them together with a section of stainless tubing between them. I feel confident that I could make one myself next time.



It's a tight fit but it works at full bump and full lock:



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