High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story - Page 23 - JeepForum.com
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post #331 of 382 Old 06-11-2019, 07:19 PM
Trevlaw
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Looking good, glad to see you making progress still.

I'm a little confused on the tie rod though, why did you decide to do the DOM with the 4140 inner sleeve vs just a chromoly tube tie rod? Seems like the two piece would probably be a stiffer overall setup, but I would think the DOM would defeat the benefit of the chromoly being able to deflect and spring back more. I'm sure you have your reasons, just curious


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post #332 of 382 Old 06-12-2019, 09:38 AM
07wurubi
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The hooks you have on the front here, where did you get them and were they a direct bolt on to the frame? I had to remove my stock hooks to mount some pod lights on my new bumper but still want hooks in the front. I believe something like this would work for my situation.
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post #333 of 382 Old 06-12-2019, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
Looking good, glad to see you making progress still.

I'm a little confused on the tie rod though, why did you decide to do the DOM with the 4140 inner sleeve vs just a chromoly tube tie rod? Seems like the two piece would probably be a stiffer overall setup, but I would think the DOM would defeat the benefit of the chromoly being able to deflect and spring back more. I'm sure you have your reasons, just curious
I'm glad I'm making progress again too. I had to take a hiatus to work on the khaki TJ and clean out my garage. Nearly 10 years of Jeep building was catching up to me and I had to sell off unused parts to make room to work in the garage.

It comes down to availability and cost. The DOM + 4140 was something I could cut, mockup, and weld myself and should be strong enough. If I bend it, then I will look into something like a solid 4140 and heat treating it. But that requires a final measurement, money, and time. That said, I might get on that sooner rather than later so I can have a spare available on the shelf.

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post #334 of 382 Old 06-12-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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Originally Posted by 07wurubi View Post
The hooks you have on the front here, where did you get them and were they a direct bolt on to the frame? I had to remove my stock hooks to mount some pod lights on my new bumper but still want hooks in the front. I believe something like this would work for my situation.
Those came with the bumper from Savvy. They do bolt onto the frame without modification. The part number is TH6B.
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post #335 of 382 Old 06-12-2019, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
Looking good, glad to see you making progress still.

I'm a little confused on the tie rod though, why did you decide to do the DOM with the 4140 inner sleeve vs just a chromoly tube tie rod? Seems like the two piece would probably be a stiffer overall setup, but I would think the DOM would defeat the benefit of the chromoly being able to deflect and spring back more. I'm sure you have your reasons, just curious
I'm glad I'm making progress again too. I had to take a hiatus to work on the khaki TJ and clean out my garage. Nearly 10 years of Jeep building was catching up to me and I had to sell off unused parts to make room to work in the garage.

It comes down to availability and cost. The DOM + 4140 was something I could cut, mockup, and weld myself and should be strong enough. If I bend it, then I will look into something like a solid 4140 and heat treating it. But that requires a final measurement, money, and time. That said, I might get on that sooner rather than later so I can have a spare available on the shelf.
Gotcha, yeah I hadn't thought of finalizing the measurements on it. I know the cluttered feeling, I have a full double garage to myself and it's already a mess. I think you should be able to get plenty of life out of that tie rod setup though, just don't go start punching trees with the Jeep like Paul lol

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post #336 of 382 Old 06-12-2019, 02:13 PM
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Thank you



Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus View Post
Those came with the bumper from Savvy. They do bolt onto the frame without modification. The part number is TH6B.

Mike Fox

My Jeep:
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work in progress.
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post #337 of 382 Old 06-13-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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I copied the final mockup steering arm plate over to 3/4" steel plate and drilled and reamed it. I'll be cleaning this plate up later and will weld it to the upper steering arm, but first I need to finalize my steering a little more before I want to commit.





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post #338 of 382 Old 06-13-2019, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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The last part of the steering to go in is hydro-assist. To turn the big 37s offroad and keep the power steering pump in good shape, hydro-assist is mandatory.

Here's my parts list:
* PSC cylinder with 1.75" bore x 10" stroke (SC2216) <--- edit: I changed the cylinder out to a 1.75" bore x 8" stroke (SC2201)
* Female 3/4"x3/4" rod end (REXFR12)
* Male 3/4"x5/8" rod end (REXMR10-12)
* Two 3/4" jam nuts (FSNJ-3/4-16RH or FKB-SJNR12)
* And two mounting tabs (MB01)

I wanted protection for the cylinder from trail hazards so I placed it above the tierod as high as I could. This way the tierod will also act as a bumper for it. Additionally by attaching to the knuckle steering arm bolt, compared to attaching one end to the tierod, there is no dead spot roll before the HA starts to push/pull.

Just like how the steering gear stops need to hit exactly when the knuckle steering stops touch, so does the cylinder. The cylinder is positioned so that the shaft is fully compressed during a left turn -- this determines it's lateral position on the axle. When the wheels are pointed straight, the cylinder is level -- this determines it's height on the axle. When the axle is in a full right turn it needs to not hit the TRE threads or nut. I kept moving it down a little at a time until it cleared.



Full right turn clearance on TRE threads and nut:



To stop the cylinder from continuing to push on a right hand turn and busting the ball joints and other components, I need to destroked it by marking and measuring the total length of the shaft less the used length of shaft and cut a spacer to that length and placed it into the cylinder.

While measuring mine for destroking I realized that I'd need just over a 2.5" spacer with my 10" cylinder. So instead of using such a large spacer, I ordered a 8" cylinder and will only have to destroke it by 0.5". (PM me if you need a 10" cylinder SC2216)


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post #339 of 382 Old 07-08-2019, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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There was a shipping mix up where the new cylinder was shipped to somebody else and then once I finally received it I realized that I had overlooked the fact that the rod end was a different size thread into the body so I had to order a 5/8x5/8 rod end (part number REXMR10) and jam nut (SJNR10-1). So that took yet another week to come in. After my build is completed I will be creating an entire list of wear parts like this and purchasing some to have on my shelf so I don't have to wait.



I installed the 8" cylinder using the same steps I listed in my last post. So I won't bore you guys with the details.

I marked and measured the shaft to verify that I needed to destroke by my estimated 0.5". To open the cylinder I used a gland tool (OTC 7463). I did have to chuck the pins in the drill press and turn them down to 3/16" to fit.



Be careful of the seals when opening the cylinder so that you don't pull the shaft threads through the end cap; do that and it'll have to be rebuilt.



For the spacer I actually bought one made of aluminum the perfect size from McMaster-Carr. Had I not already needed to place an order for bolts, the other option is to make your own by stacking up homemade aluminum washers. Using a steel spacer, such as DOM tubing or steel washers, could end up scratching up the shaft and tearing seals over time.



To verify my stops I turned the steering all the way driver's (left) and bolted in the cylinder fully collapsed. And repeated for a right turn with the cylinder fully extended. Both ways the cylinder bolted right in.

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post #340 of 382 Old 07-09-2019, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Now that the steering is entirely mocked up and everything is in it's proper place, I finalized the brackets and cleaned things up. The final welding will happen when I pull the axle after the coilovers are mocked up.





I cut the pitman arm down to size:



I remade the frame side trackbar mount so there'd be less gap between the bracket and the frame:



To strengthen up the track bar and drag link DOM tube linkages, I inner sleeved them with 1" OD 6061-T6 solid round bar. These don't see the abuse that the tie rod sees and are also shorter so the weight and cost savings are welcome over the heat treated 4140 I had used in that.

On the steering arms I used 1" OD .120" wall tubing cut to length as spacers over the grade 8 3/4"-16 by 8in length bolts. 3/4" washers and mechanically locking grade C/8 stover nuts. Blue Loctite to prevent rust and further retain the steering. The 3/4" bolt is torqued to 200ft-lb.



One question I received is how I figured out my maximum turning radius or if I could add more with the RCV shafts. The answer is that Currie set the knuckle steering stops for me. Any more angle and the inner-C wants to take out the upper steering arm bolts.


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post #341 of 382 Old 07-09-2019, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Aside from running the steering fluid hoses (will happen around the time the fenders go in), installing the reservoir, 6lb pressure valve to keep it from spitting, and tweaking the alignment once it's driving, this finishes up the steering chapter of my build. If you're just tuning in now, the steering is spread over posts dating back to some of my first posts in this build thread. Here's an index:

  1. Axle overview: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/.../#post39934129
  2. Drilling the upper steering arm: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40072385
  3. The steering parts list: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40449435
  4. Fitting steering stuff in: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40449453
  5. Steering game plan: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40452789
  6. Flat pitman arm: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40453911
  7. Rough tierod mockup: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40456051
  8. Steering plate mockup and rough mockup of all the links: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40461543
  9. Tierod heim spacers: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40462265
  10. Firming up and committing to the placement: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40573019
  11. Aligning the axle: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40574811
  12. Finishing up the tirerod: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40643783
  13. Finishing up the pitman arm: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40643847
  14. Steering arm plate: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40647739
  15. Mounting hydro assist: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40647751
  16. Destroking hydro assist: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40672505
  17. Finishing up the steering: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/...l#post40672945

Feel free to keep steering discussion going. I've enjoyed the comments/questions/ideas/suggestions.
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post #342 of 382 Old 07-09-2019, 11:52 AM
NashvilleTJ
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Nice work Tox. Steering looks really clean.

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post #343 of 382 Old 07-09-2019, 06:28 PM
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Very nice. Thanks for sharing.
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post #344 of 382 Old 07-09-2019, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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Nice work Tox. Steering looks really clean.
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Very nice. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks guys. I've been very pleased with how the front end is turning out.

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post #345 of 382 Old 07-09-2019, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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Back in March I had dropped off the roll cage padding covers to be modified at the seamstress. She did a great job of it. Looking back, I would have marked how to cut around the bars slightly different and reversed the direction of the zipper above the driver's head (not her fault since I did all of the measuring) but I'm still very happy with the results. However, if somebody has some take off LJ covers I'd buy them off you and I'd have another go at this.




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