High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story - Page 23 - JeepForum.com
 45Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #331 of 338 Old 06-11-2019, 07:19 PM
Trevlaw
Web Wheeler
 
Trevlaw's Avatar
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Corvallis
Posts: 2,589
Garage
Looking good, glad to see you making progress still.

I'm a little confused on the tie rod though, why did you decide to do the DOM with the 4140 inner sleeve vs just a chromoly tube tie rod? Seems like the two piece would probably be a stiffer overall setup, but I would think the DOM would defeat the benefit of the chromoly being able to deflect and spring back more. I'm sure you have your reasons, just curious


I want a J-Series
TJ Build:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Trevlaw is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #332 of 338 Old 06-12-2019, 09:38 AM
07wurubi
2006 LJ Rubicon
 
07wurubi's Avatar
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 578
The hooks you have on the front here, where did you get them and were they a direct bolt on to the frame? I had to remove my stock hooks to mount some pod lights on my new bumper but still want hooks in the front. I believe something like this would work for my situation.
Attached Images
 

Mike Fox

My Jeeps:
00 Wrangler Sport

06 Wrangler LJ Rubicon
work in progress.
07wurubi is offline  
post #333 of 338 Old 06-12-2019, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
Looking good, glad to see you making progress still.

I'm a little confused on the tie rod though, why did you decide to do the DOM with the 4140 inner sleeve vs just a chromoly tube tie rod? Seems like the two piece would probably be a stiffer overall setup, but I would think the DOM would defeat the benefit of the chromoly being able to deflect and spring back more. I'm sure you have your reasons, just curious
I'm glad I'm making progress again too. I had to take a hiatus to work on the khaki TJ and clean out my garage. Nearly 10 years of Jeep building was catching up to me and I had to sell off unused parts to make room to work in the garage.

It comes down to availability and cost. The DOM + 4140 was something I could cut, mockup, and weld myself and should be strong enough. If I bend it, then I will look into something like a solid 4140 and heat treating it. But that requires a final measurement, money, and time. That said, I might get on that sooner rather than later so I can have a spare available on the shelf.

Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
 
post #334 of 338 Old 06-12-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
Quote:
Originally Posted by 07wurubi View Post
The hooks you have on the front here, where did you get them and were they a direct bolt on to the frame? I had to remove my stock hooks to mount some pod lights on my new bumper but still want hooks in the front. I believe something like this would work for my situation.
Those came with the bumper from Savvy. They do bolt onto the frame without modification. The part number is TH6B.
07wurubi likes this.

Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
post #335 of 338 Old 06-12-2019, 01:25 PM
Trevlaw
Web Wheeler
 
Trevlaw's Avatar
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Corvallis
Posts: 2,589
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
Looking good, glad to see you making progress still.

I'm a little confused on the tie rod though, why did you decide to do the DOM with the 4140 inner sleeve vs just a chromoly tube tie rod? Seems like the two piece would probably be a stiffer overall setup, but I would think the DOM would defeat the benefit of the chromoly being able to deflect and spring back more. I'm sure you have your reasons, just curious
I'm glad I'm making progress again too. I had to take a hiatus to work on the khaki TJ and clean out my garage. Nearly 10 years of Jeep building was catching up to me and I had to sell off unused parts to make room to work in the garage.

It comes down to availability and cost. The DOM + 4140 was something I could cut, mockup, and weld myself and should be strong enough. If I bend it, then I will look into something like a solid 4140 and heat treating it. But that requires a final measurement, money, and time. That said, I might get on that sooner rather than later so I can have a spare available on the shelf.
Gotcha, yeah I hadn't thought of finalizing the measurements on it. I know the cluttered feeling, I have a full double garage to myself and it's already a mess. I think you should be able to get plenty of life out of that tie rod setup though, just don't go start punching trees with the Jeep like Paul lol

I want a J-Series
TJ Build:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Trevlaw is offline  
post #336 of 338 Old 06-12-2019, 02:13 PM
07wurubi
2006 LJ Rubicon
 
07wurubi's Avatar
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 578
Thank you



Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus View Post
Those came with the bumper from Savvy. They do bolt onto the frame without modification. The part number is TH6B.

Mike Fox

My Jeeps:
00 Wrangler Sport

06 Wrangler LJ Rubicon
work in progress.
07wurubi is offline  
post #337 of 338 Old 06-13-2019, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
I copied the final mockup steering arm plate over to 3/4" steel plate and drilled and reamed it. I'll be cleaning this plate up later and will weld it to the upper steering arm, but first I need to finalize my steering a little more before I want to commit.





Mud Machine likes this.

Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
post #338 of 338 Old 06-13-2019, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
The last part of the steering to go in is hydro-assist. To turn the big 37s offroad and keep the power steering pump in good shape, hydro-assist is mandatory.

Here's my parts list:
* PSC cylinder with 1.75" bore x 10" stroke (SC2216) <--- edit: I changed the cylinder out to a 1.75" bore x 8" stroke (SC2201)
* Female 3/4"x3/4" rod end (REXFR12)
* Male 3/4"x5/8" rod end (REXMR10-12)
* Two 3/4" jam nuts (FSNJ-3/4-16RH or FKB-SJNR12)
* And two mounting tabs (MB01)

I wanted protection for the cylinder from trail hazards so I placed it above the tierod as high as I could. This way the tierod will also act as a bumper for it. Additionally by attaching to the knuckle steering arm bolt, compared to attaching one end to the tierod, there is no dead spot roll before the HA starts to push/pull.

Just like how the steering gear stops need to hit exactly when the knuckle steering stops touch, so does the cylinder. The cylinder is positioned so that the shaft is fully compressed during a left turn -- this determines it's lateral position on the axle. When the wheels are pointed straight, the cylinder is level -- this determines it's height on the axle. When the axle is in a full right turn it needs to not hit the TRE threads or nut. I kept moving it down a little at a time until it cleared.



Full right turn clearance on TRE threads and nut:



To stop the cylinder from continuing to push on a right hand turn and busting the ball joints and other components, I need to destroked it by marking and measuring the total length of the shaft less the used length of shaft and cut a spacer to that length and placed it into the cylinder.

While measuring mine for destroking I realized that I'd need just over a 2.5" spacer with my 10" cylinder. So instead of using such a large spacer, I ordered a 8" cylinder and will only have to destroke it by 0.5". (PM me if you need a 10" cylinder SC2216)


Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome