High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story - Page 22 - JeepForum.com
 45Likes
Reply
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #316 of 338 Old 04-02-2019, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
I haven't done a 3 link... yet, but i can't see how moving it back an inch would have that much effect on the geometry. It would definitely strengthen the mount. Just an observation... I'm sure you have this under control.
I see what you're saying. Yes, the UCA plate will be tied in with the diff cover. That'll happen once I pull the axle for final welding.


Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #317 of 338 Old 04-02-2019, 01:03 PM
tchaap
Registered User
 
tchaap's Avatar
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Woodstock
Posts: 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
Looks good, Tox. This is now my 3rd favorite build thread.

When I ran the supercharger, I found that the pulley alignment for the serpentine belt had to be spot on to avoid squealing. I also found that the standard belts always squealed after a short period of time. What I wound up using was the old Goodyear gatorback belts, which I believe are sold now by Continental. Never a peep out of those.

Looking good. Love those axles.
1. loving this thread
2. also loving this post...been trying to find goodyear gatorback belts and no-one has them. Found Continental online...thanks for the info NashvilleTJ
NashvilleTJ likes this.

TC
Crawling For Reid March 23, 2019 Adventure Off-road Park
tchaap is offline  
post #318 of 338 Old 04-02-2019, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchaap View Post
1. loving this thread
2. also loving this post...been trying to find goodyear gatorback belts and no-one has them. Found Continental online...thanks for the info NashvilleTJ
I'm glad this thread has been helpful!

Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
 
post #319 of 338 Old 04-03-2019, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
To align the front axle I started by centering it. To do so, I marked the center point on the front bumper and marked the center point behind the rear wheels (I previously aligned the rear axle). I then measured and marked the center of the front axle. I placed a laser in front of the Jeep and aligned the laser to the front bumper mark and rear axle mark, I then used the track bar to align the front axle to it's center at ride height.



Next I toed the knuckles to 1/8" toe-out (yes, this is different than you would do on a stock TJ) by clamping angle to the rotors and measuring across front and rear -- 37" apart. I moved the angle back and pointed the knuckles straight using measurements from the frame of the Jeep.



Finally I used a bubble level on the steering wheel and adjusted the drag link to get the steering wheel straight. My concrete is level in this spot, or else I would have to account for the slope.

After every change to the linkages I went through this process and then cycled the steering. Rinse and repeat.
Mud Machine and arg0413 like this.

Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
post #320 of 338 Old 04-08-2019, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
To fit the hydro-assist cylinder in I had to get the Currie mini truss mounts off the axle tube. Took some grinding and hammering:





I drove down to the "big city" and picked up a 20-ton shop press from Harbor Freight. What should have been a 30-45 minute setup ended up taking multiple trips to Harbor Freight to get one that worked.

While the axle was out, I took apart the steering linkages to inner-sleeve them with solid round (more on this in my next post) and for fun I threw a scrap of 1" 6061-T6 solid round bar into the press to watch it deflect and spring back into shape... Only it remained bent... I'm pretty sure the steel yard sold me 6061 (or some other aluminum) without heat treatment even though I asked the guy multiple times that it was INDEED heat treated T6. At this point it's been a nearly a year since I bought it and it's my word against his on what I bought. I hate buying local these days... there's little to no benefit. Anyone have project ideas for this mystery aluminum (use as ingots in a forge?)?

So not much Jeep work got done on this weekend.

Until I get real 6061-T6 in, the front axle is in a holding pattern. I did pick up an oxy-acetylene torch and bottles so at least I have that going for me.

Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
post #321 of 338 Old 04-09-2019, 01:34 PM
daddyjeep87
Registered User
 
daddyjeep87's Avatar
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Smethport
Posts: 994
Garage
What was the issue with the press? I have been planning on picking one up. My closest HF is an hour away so I will need to test in the parking lot before I come home.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
daddyjeep87 is offline  
post #322 of 338 Old 04-09-2019, 01:41 PM
Trevlaw
Web Wheeler
 
Trevlaw's Avatar
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Corvallis
Posts: 2,589
Garage
How far did you bend the 1" rod? You can use a deburring tool to get a stringy chip off of it. If the chip breaks after bending it back and forth a couple times it's probably 6061, 5052 will break after a lot of bends back and forth. Most raw stock should have the identifiers on them if you can see any faint lettering that may have rubbed off. But I didn't think 6061 was known for being able to spring back very well

I want a J-Series
TJ Build:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Trevlaw is offline  
post #323 of 338 Old 04-10-2019, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
What was the issue with the press? I have been planning on picking one up. My closest HF is an hour away so I will need to test in the parking lot before I come home.
Mine is 4 hours round trip. Good call to assemble in the parking lot, however make sure you test the jack up and down several times... Mine moved enough to make me think it worked and then it wouldn't at all.

Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
post #324 of 338 Old 04-10-2019, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
How far did you bend the 1" rod? You can use a deburring tool to get a stringy chip off of it. If the chip breaks after bending it back and forth a couple times it's probably 6061, 5052 will break after a lot of bends back and forth. Most raw stock should have the identifiers on them if you can see any faint lettering that may have rubbed off. But I didn't think 6061 was known for being able to spring back very well
There's no markings on any of the stock. Including the DOM. But as long as there is no seam it should be DOM, correct?

I pushed a roughly 12" long piece supported on both ends about 1/4" in the center. It remained bent. I also tested some 3/16" sheet that I bought from them and had used for under the tailgate and I had the same problem with it. Comparing the sheet to known 6061-T6 sheet, it's not right.

I ordered 6061-T6 bar from Speedy Metals and sheet from Xometry (way cheaper) on Sunday night. It's out for delivery today. I will compare it once it arrives.

Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
post #325 of 338 Old 04-10-2019, 01:28 PM
Trevlaw
Web Wheeler
 
Trevlaw's Avatar
2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Corvallis
Posts: 2,589
Garage
Hmm. Interested to see how the new stuff compares. Not sure on the steel markings. We have a chat at work for the corresponding color on the end of the stock, but Ive heard each manufacturer uses different coloring systems so it's kind of hard to tell. If there's no seam it should be DOM though I think

For sheet aluminum, all the 5052 sheet I've seen(not a lot but some) has a shine to the coating on the outside more like a mirror where the 6061 is very dull and grey

I want a J-Series
TJ Build:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Trevlaw is offline  
post #326 of 338 Old 04-10-2019, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
The new metal came in! I don't know for sure what the old stuff is, but the new stuff acts like I'd expect.

SpeedyMetals messed up half my order and sent some steel instead of aluminum, but everything critical to the steering is here. Xometry is well worth checking out for their prices. They also have a lot of coupons so be sure to search for those. https://www.xometry.com/supplies/materials

Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
post #327 of 338 Old 04-22-2019, 07:52 AM
joe_jeep
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: hazel park, mi
Posts: 6,234
Garage
cool build thx

glfwda #6624
2005 rubicon sahara lj #592
joe_jeep is offline  
post #328 of 338 Old 06-10-2019, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
At the end of April we went camping in the khaki TJ up in MI at Drummond Island.



Unfortunately the locker pump sucked in water earlier in the day and the lockers went out right as I was coming up to this ledge climb:



(If you can't see the video, click here: https://jeep.yellowgoo.com/khaki_tj/drummond-2019.webm)

Getting back to the build thread, since I have the toe set, I finalized the tie rod to firm it up, the tie rod is made from 1.25" DOM and inner-sleeved with heat treated 1" 4140 solid round bar:



Innersleeving has 2 benefits: 1) the tubing won't dent and fail. And 2) the tubing gets strengthened.

Each end got 3 rosette welds to the threaded rod end insert, and welded all the way around.





The heat from the welding warped the threads slightly so I chased them with a tap. Some of the taps were difficult to find especially at reasonable prices for only chasing threads. Here's the part numbers and sources of the taps: The right hand 7/8"14 tap I used is Drill America DWT54892, the left hand 7/8"-14 tap is Drill America DWT60891.



That's all there is to the tierod.

Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
post #329 of 338 Old 06-10-2019, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
I've been asked a couple of times if the UCA mount is too far forward, so I aligned a laser from the center of one side of the axle tube to the other. The joint is dead center on the top of the housing and angled to point straight at the frame side mount at ride height:


Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
post #330 of 338 Old 06-10-2019, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
toximus
Web Wheeler
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,496
I ordered a blank Saginaw flat pitman arm from PartsMike:

http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/p...ndrilled-525-7

Also sold by PSC as PA700: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfn-pa700

I then drilled and reamed it to 4.929" center to center to match my mock up. To remind you from one of my earlier posts, DO NOT use my measurements as any sort of guide for yours. Make mockups and figure out the length you need, there's no way to short cut this frustrating process and still get perfect results. For reaming, you really need a drill press in order to get it straight, so I'd put that fully on the shopping list before starting this project if you don't have one already -- it'll also make drilling all of the many holes so much easier. I'm using the XKUT #5952 (1-1/2" per foot) reamer I mentioned a few posts ago to match the taper of the TREs.

The first mark on the arm is at 4.9", second is the 4.929" I went with:





I kept checking the depth of the taper by tightening down the TRE. I wanted just enough so that a cotter pin will slide through the castle and no more.



Somehow mine ended up perfectly clocked on the sector shaft (what are the chances?) but It's highly possible that the pitman arm wasn't going to be clocked on the splines the same as my mockup. If that was the case, I can either bend the arm or reposition the TRE on the upper steering arm slightly to correct. A custom waterjet arm with press fit splines is also be an option if those routes don't pan out. I had bought the shop press and oxy acetylene setup just for this moment! I'll have to come up with an excuse to get my flame on another time.

The arm is thicker than my mockup arm was so the castle nut on the top needed additional clearance from the frame. I'll clean up my notch and be plating over it at a later step.


Building the right way for 37s.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
toximus is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome