High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story - Page 21 - JeepForum.com
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post #301 of 382 Old 03-07-2019, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud Machine View Post
New TJ and King Of The Hammers....Life is good!!
For sure! At first I was a bit bummed about the timing of it all considering that I've just been wanting to work on my rig. But then I remembered that my build is about the life I want to enjoy and this new TJ and KOH is part of that too so I relaxed a little. Yes, I could have this Jeep build done by now, but enjoying life is more important!

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Building the right way for 37s.
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post #302 of 382 Old 03-07-2019, 02:26 PM
daddyjeep87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus View Post
Yes, I could have this Jeep build done by now, but enjoying life is more important!
Exactly... I can't wait to get to KOH one day. It sounds like the series of events worked out quite well.

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241, Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT

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post #303 of 382 Old 03-07-2019, 10:29 PM
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Hey, that camp looks familiar lol. Lucky you, I wish I would've gotten to see the campbell car up close. Glad you guys had fun
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I want a J-Series
TJ Build:

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post #304 of 382 Old 03-12-2019, 01:34 PM
TJosh02
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That is one clean looking TJ (Khaki)! Nice score.

'02 TJ 4L 5spd
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post #305 of 382 Old 03-13-2019, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJosh02 View Post
That is one clean looking TJ (Khaki)! Nice score.
Thanks! I never did do a spec list for it, so here we go:
  • Rubicon model (so 44s front and rear, lockers, 4:1 transfercase)
  • RGA 5.38 gears
  • 35" KM2 tires
  • Currie 4" coils
  • Fox outboarded 11" shocks with reservoirs
  • Savvy mid-arm
  • Rear springs mounts corrected
  • Front antirock (came with uninstalled rear)
  • Savvy front bumper
  • Genright rear bumper plate
  • VisionX LED headlights
  • MORryde Tailgate Reinforcement
  • Rubicrawler
  • Rokmen tummy tuck skidplate
  • Currie steering
  • Tom Wood's driveshafts
  • RCV front axle shafts
  • RGA rear axle shafts
  • BMB 17" big brake kit
  • BedRug carpet
  • Floor mats
  • Upgraded sound system
  • Speedo healer
  • And more.

I'm doing a full tune up and manual hubs to get rid of vibes.

Building the right way for 37s.
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post #306 of 382 Old 03-16-2019, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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The windshield is removed, remaining rust spots sanded, and internal paint applied. Once the internal paint dries I will shoot the red paint.



And the rollcage is painted. It will be covered in padding again so the ugly paint transitions won't be seen.


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post #307 of 382 Old 03-16-2019, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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Tom Wood's exchanged my 2" front driveshaft for a 1.25" shaft. It now clears the transmission. I bolted up the exhaust pipe and it clears too.

Long term I'm going to need a larger shaft in there if I want it to survive when the hubs are locked at speed. Once I have absolute final measurements I will be having a special custom shaft made out of chromoly with the splines placed where the transmisison interference is and heat treated. This smaller 1.25" shaft at least will allow me to mock up and measure and later will be a spare.

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Building the right way for 37s.
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post #308 of 382 Old 03-21-2019, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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I found my OEM transfercase plugs and replaced them yesterday. So far no leaking! This is going to be the end of the sight glass mod, I see no purpose in it.

The rollcage padding is back on. I am washing the covers and need to figure out how to modify them to work. I'm thinking I'll need to sew a couple more zippers into it.

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Building the right way for 37s.
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post #309 of 382 Old 03-22-2019, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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I swung by the local seamstress to get the roll cage padding covers modified. She wasn't confident that her poly string will hold up but I figure the padding is such a low wear area that if the string holds up on pants and shirts it'd hold up the padding. Time will tell. She'll be shortening the padding on the A to B pillar bars and adding a zipper and velcro to the B pillar spreader.





The windshield frame is painted and while I had the paint out I touched up a few other spots.





I also wiped down the interior of the Jeep and washed the seats again since some fiberglass got on them while welding the cage. Once they dry out I'll be covering the interior since I am done in there for a while.

For the khaki TJ I am putting on rear bumper braces to help spread the load from the rear shackles into the frame. So I decided to do an A/B test on paint to see which holds up better.


Building the right way for 37s.
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post #310 of 382 Old 04-01-2019, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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The windshield frame is back in place. Once the build is done I will have somebody replace the glass. I used Honda Shin-Etsu grease on the weather seal.



The steering was a big pain. It's consists of a bunch of trial and error. You move one thing and you must adjust everything else, and then do an alignment.

I finally dialed in the steering gear to steering stop ratio I previously had mentioned I was working on late last year. The more perfect it is the less wear you'll have on rod ends, ball joints, and links. As I started to get it more dialed in I kept working towards finalizing more parts and firming them up with more welds and more finished of a design. Once everything starts getting firm with less play the ratio needed to be changed again slightly.

I am running 1/8" of toe-out and about 6.5* of caster.

At this point, I can stick a business card behind the physical steering stops on the knuckles and hold it in place with the steering wheel. As soon as the steering wheel is backed off at all, the card drops.

This is the mocked up pitman arm I made. I would not drive on it aside from a couple of feet in a straight line across the yard or onto a trailer. Once I have a final pitman arm made I can still adjust and correct the plate on the knuckle slightly if it changes my ratio at all.



I clearanced the motor mount for the UCA and notched the frame for the drag link and track bar. This is where the plasma comes in handy! When I pull the axle out later to finalize and paint it I will also plate these areas.



It's nice to see that the frame is solid with no rust since I reused this section of frame.

The lower radiator hose had to be moved out of the way of the UCA. This was simply done by rotating it.



There is 6.5" of up travel in the front. The limitation is the 37" tires on the highline fenders:



There's not many exact measurements that I can give that would be helpful here. It comes down to following the philosophy and guidelines. What's probably more helpful is looking through the detailed pictures. Once I pull the axle for final welding I will also be replacing some of the mockup brackets I used for final bracketry.

The track bar and drag link are parallel:



The track bar is at the same angle as the drag link for no bump steer:


The UCA bolt had to be flipped to stay off the AC pump:


The frame side track bar backet is angled off the frame to keep the heim joint straight at ride height:


The 3/4" 8" bolts are the perfect length for the steering arms:


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post #311 of 382 Old 04-02-2019, 07:21 AM
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It looks like you could move the upper link bracket back a bit to reduce both the amount of cantilever and the number of exposed threads. Does the compressor allow this or is that what dictates where it currently is?

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241, Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT

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post #312 of 382 Old 04-02-2019, 08:06 AM
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Looking good, Tox.

In the picture of the front tire at full stuff, are you at full stuff on both sides, or at full articulation? When I set my bump stops at full articulation, I was surprised that there were several inches of clearance between the tire and the fender when at full stuff on both sides.

Build Thread:

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Swing Away / Swing Down Tire Carrier:

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post #313 of 382 Old 04-02-2019, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyjeep87 View Post
It looks like you could move the upper link bracket back a bit to reduce both the amount of cantilever and the number of exposed threads. Does the compressor allow this or is that what dictates where it currently is?
It is currently centered over the axle tube at ride height. Moving it back would actually gain better clearance. My understanding is that centered is ideal geometry for the 3 link? I'm going to have to count threads engaged and possibly order a custom length upper.

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post #314 of 382 Old 04-02-2019, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
Looking good, Tox.

In the picture of the front tire at full stuff, are you at full stuff on both sides, or at full articulation? When I set my bump stops at full articulation, I was surprised that there were several inches of clearance between the tire and the fender when at full stuff on both sides.
Full articulation. I learned that lesson while working in the rear.
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post #315 of 382 Old 04-02-2019, 09:34 AM
daddyjeep87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toximus View Post
It is currently centered over the axle tube at ride height. Moving it back would actually gain better clearance. My understanding is that centered is ideal geometry for the 3 link? I'm going to have to count threads engaged and possibly order a custom length upper.
I haven't done a 3 link... yet, but i can't see how moving it back an inch would have that much effect on the geometry. It would definitely strengthen the mount. Just an observation... I'm sure you have this under control.

87 YJ, 5.7/TH350/NP241, Custom 4 link/ Radius Arms, ADS Nitrogen Shocks, 35" Cooper STT

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