High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story - Page 12 - JeepForum.com
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post #166 of 420 Old 08-22-2018, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,585
While I was looking for a good spot to send the split-second plugs through the firewall I found the transfercase breather had gotten too close to the exhaust and cracked, while repairing that I noticed that water was in that line, so I lowered the transfercase to disconnect the full line. While removing that line I noticed a bunch of "forest dirt" (not hard packed mud but spongy junk) packed up behind the engine, digging that out I found the cowl drain to be completely clogged up.

I sprayed water down and used my finger to dig out dirt from the bottom end. What finally got it moving was a zip-it. And oh boy did that hole erupt unleashing sand and pine needles from it's depths. The pine needles I understand but I'm a bit shocked by how much sand was clogged up in that tunnel.


Building the right way for 37s.
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post #167 of 420 Old 08-22-2018, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rhinelander
Posts: 3,585
For the front axle, I had a slight change of plans and will be using a mounting plate on top tied into the diff cover instead of the bridge/truss.

Currie has 2 versions of their fabricated diff cover floating around. One is a Dana 70 cover and sticks out too far. The other one is the Dana 60 cover which is the one I need (Currie support doesn't understand that they have 2 covers, the correct part number is: 60-1005F).

This 60-1005F fabricated cover touches the ring gear on the RJ60VXR (it clears the regular RJ60). I suspect it's due to the larger Super 60 ring gear.



I ground down the 2 spots to clear the ring gear:



This cover does not include a breather like the forged cover did so I added that to my list of things to do later.

Building the right way for 37s.
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post #168 of 420 Old 08-22-2018, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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I ground a little off the top of the cover so the plate will fit over top:


Building the right way for 37s.
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post #169 of 420 Old 08-22-2018, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Rhinelander
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Currie's own JohnnyJoints don't fit with the TJ LCA bracket on the driver's side of the 60VXR housing (I'm unclear if this is an oversight on their end or of they are in the process of changing the physical size of their joint.).



So I did a little more grinding to the diff housing to make it fit:


Building the right way for 37s.
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post #170 of 420 Old 08-22-2018, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Rhinelander
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It took me half a day to get the old brackets and trackbar mount off the front of the frame even with plasma:



I can't rave enough about the Metabo angle grinder I bought at the start of the year when I was working on the rear. Paired with Walter flap discs this combo makes the work bearable.

Building the right way for 37s.
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post #171 of 420 Old 08-22-2018, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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I rolled the front axle under and hooked up the lowers to get an idea of what I'll be dealing with.





It's going to be a tight fit.
Mud Machine likes this.

Building the right way for 37s.
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post #172 of 420 Old 08-22-2018, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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I won't bore you guys with pictures of me mounting beadlocks. Instead I will show off the tool I made that I forgot to show a few months ago when I mounted the rears.

I've found when mounting beadlocks the bead keeps slipping out as I go around the tire, by mounting these plates to the areas where the bead is already seated it is held in place and won't slip back out. Not every tire needs it. Some tires need 3 plates.


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post #173 of 420 Old 08-22-2018, 06:49 PM
Slugger
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: North Carolina
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Very nice work, really enjoy the good quality pics. I hate to ask such a simple question with all the detailed work,but in post # 163 you mention removing the hood liner. I've neither heard or seen this on a Jeep. What does it do?
Most folks are looking to get heat out, does this not hold it in? Again, thanks for sharing your work.
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post #174 of 420 Old 08-22-2018, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slugger View Post
Very nice work, really enjoy the good quality pics. I hate to ask such a simple question with all the detailed work,but in post # 163 you mention removing the hood liner. I've neither heard or seen this on a Jeep. What does it do?
Most folks are looking to get heat out, does this not hold it in? Again, thanks for sharing your work.
All questions are welcome! The hood liner is something special to the LJs. The LJs also have thicker padding under the carpet.

I don't have a great picture of the hood liner but you can see the bottom of it in post 36. When I put it back in I'll try and remember to take a better picture for you. I have never had heat issues where I've wheeled over the last 8 years having the hood liner. I also live in a fairly cold environment where I actually have to worry more about getting fluids up to temp than keeping them cool. I think the hood liner helps keep the engine sounds quieter in the cab is why I'll be adding it back in.

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post #175 of 420 Old 08-22-2018, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Rhinelander
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The driveshaft came from Tom Woods on Monday as they said it would but when I was unwrapping it I realized that I had completely forgotten to order u-bolts. None of the local shops carry quality Spicer u-bolts so I ordered them next day from Amazon and they arrived today (Wednesday). The driveshaft is in and I set the pinion angle. The brackets will need to be rotated slightly to compensate.


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post #176 of 420 Old 08-22-2018, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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I was using 4" taillights and 2.5" backup lights with grommets but they are difficult to install and remove without sitting in the sun first. I thought about going back to the stock look with Savvy's taillights or ORO's LiteDOTS but I want something flush to the back and timeless looking reminiscent of the old military CJs. I have a friend who looks to go out and explore random forest roads. A lot of times we need to turn around while exploring these tight wooded trails and it's nice not having to worry about ripping stuff off your rear end while pressing it against trees.

Super Bright LEDs has 4" stainless steel flanges for only $5ea that work with most 4" taillights and fit mine perfectly (saving me a few dollars from having to buy new lights). I bend them slightly to match the curve of my tub. I also purchased 2.5" round backup lights with a flange from them that fit my existing holes. I thought that they were also chrome for some reason but they turned out to be a dull gray. I'm going to have to look into painting them both black or find chrome paint.


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post #177 of 420 Old 08-23-2018, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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I fitted a waterproof cap onto the Split-Second box's serial port just in case any water ends up splashing up behind the dash. Easier to keep those little connectors clean than have to clean them out later.

WPSD1-CVR http://www.l-com.com/d-sub-ip67-conn...r-db9-and-hd15


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post #178 of 420 Old 08-24-2018, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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Before burning the brackets on the rear axle I tested clearances one more time by traveling the axle. One difference this time was I used a tire inflated to 25psi instead of 8psi. This changed things slightly. I'm going to have to widen out the wheel arches by another 1/2" and at full articulation the tire hits the antirock.

I pulled the straight arms off the front and moved them to the back.

The reservoir has to be relocated as there's no room once the heim is added:



They allow for the same travel as the bent rear arms however once you add in the heim joint they come into contact with the tub:



Using the ballpeen hammer I clearanced the tub:





I think the carpet will lay right over this.

When I went to order new arms for the rear I noticed they have a few versions of the straight arms, one is half the thickness designed for the front of a TJ (to get around the steering bolts). Since there's minimal side forces on these arms I went with these thinner arms for slightly more clearance.

Building the right way for 37s.
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post #179 of 420 Old 08-25-2018, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
toximus
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Currie did not tap the diff housing all the way to the bottom which causes issues with the longer bolts used with the cover I'm placing on the front axle. I used a 3/8-16" bottoming tab and blew air down the holes to clean them out.


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post #180 of 420 Old 08-27-2018, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
toximus
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2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
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For the brake lines I decided to run the front lines down to the axle along the UCA (much like how the rear stock lines run). This is cleaner, less to snag on branches and trees on the trail, and with 14" of travel doing a drop is a lot of line hanging. I removed all of the stock lines on the frame.

There are a few different models of the brake distribution block with different fitting sizes if you find this post from searching I suggest you check your own block before ordering parts. On my distribution block there is a ORB union on the rear most port that goes to the front passengers brakes. I won't be needing it and I plugged it with a stainless steel 1/2"-20 ORB from Brennan Industries (6408-05-O-SS). I then bent up new 3/16" annealed stainless steel brake lines with stainless steel inverted flare tube nuts. Eastwood's brake flaring tool is a huge asset when doing the inverted double flare on each end.



At the other end down on the frame for the front and rear I used a 3/8"-24 inverted flare tube nut to terminate the hard line and a inverted flare to -3 AN adapter fitting (Aeroquip FBM2936) so I can run AN flex line down to the axle (more on that later once I get to it). The adapters are held in place on the tabs I welded to the frame earlier.


Building the right way for 37s.
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