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post #736 of 749 Old 09-14-2020, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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... it is... yet soooooo totally worth it!

Hoss
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We got it good here in Missouri you can pretty much toss anything together and get away with it. I check with the state police before I started my mg midget small block Chevy project to make sure I could get it street legal and they said as long as it passes a safety inspection there wouldn't be any issue. Looking back I kind of wish they had told me no but where's the fun in that I just wish I had you skills your fab work is amazing keep up the GREAT work can't wait to see what you do next
You learn a lot from a project even if it doesn't get finished. I didn't have all the skills I needed at the start of this project either, but is why I took it on to learn them. I'm not one for just making something useless while learning, always what it to be something at the end. Even back in the days of trade school we had to practice cutting with an oxy torch. The examiner would look at your cuts and then pass or fail you. Everyone except me then threw their pieces in the bin. I thought ahead and rather than cut right through the plate, stopped short and turned my plate it into a steel rake. I then welded some tube onto it for a handle and still use it today some 40 years later!

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post #737 of 749 Old 09-14-2020, 08:45 PM
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It will sit at the same height off the floor as the top of the console for good ergonomics.
I read this post earlier today at work. As I drove home tonight in my '05 WK, I thought about the above statement.
Then realized, my armrest and center console are NOT at the same height.
Thanks, Marcus for pointing this out to me!
Every time I rest my arm on the door, it'll make me think of your build!
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post #738 of 749 Old 09-15-2020, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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I read this post earlier today at work. As I drove home tonight in my '05 WK, I thought about the above statement.
Then realized, my armrest and center console are NOT at the same height.
Thanks, Marcus for pointing this out to me!
Every time I rest my arm on the door, it'll make me think of your build!
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post #739 of 749 Old 09-29-2020, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry but posting is going to be all over the place, or nothing at all for a while. I have to keep changing from one thing to another while waiting for parcels to arrive due to the lock down still on in my state. Longest running in the world now!

Anyway, rather than waiting until I can show completing things in a logical order, I can post as little things get done in the meantime.


I ran into a problem when I tried the new H4 LED headlights for the first time. They would not change from low to high after converting from the donor twin bulb setup. Fortunately help from good friend at Jeep R Us, Richard Curly, suggested to try a CANBUS Error Cancelation Module, preferably one that works with Jeeps PWM, Pulse Width Modulation, system. I found these from STEDI and it fixed the problem completely. https://www.stedi.com.au/h4-canbus-c...onversion.html I have mounted them to the radiator support as these do generate heat.


I wired the DRL, Day Time Running Lights, as my parkers as only use them while driving at dusk, dawn and foggy conditions. Before adding the module they would strobe once turned on, but for some reason that got fixed as well which is a bonus.


The NARVA inserts use a LED projector for low beam. Notice also that my LED indicators are also glowing dimly which they shouldn't. Adding a 6 Ohm load resistor fixed that.


When on high beam the low beams remain on as well. The lights give a very clean cut off so wont blind oncoming drivers.


Testing here the best position to mount my new chrome windscreen washers. I decided to order two twin squirters to give good coverage to the split windscreen.


Was able to save having them in the bonnet and the hoses will run under the dash instead. The exact centre of each windscreen half put it inline with the hinge. These are are good quality as machined from solid brass and are Lucas style as fitted to many early English cars.


Also got some chrome plated cast steel wiper bezels. These seal against the cowl completely leak free, unlike the last set I tried made from a soft rubber. These suit early Minis, Triumph Spitfire & GT6 and MGB's. These and the wiper washes were bought from Classic Bits on eBay. https://www.ebay.com.au/str/Classic-...p2047675.l2563


I scored in that the bezel kept the wiper wheel box at the correct angle which is parallel to the glass angle. Otherwise the wipers will not run smoothly as the pressure will change throughout the sweep if not matched.


Just got my Defender LED upgrade pack in. I found there were three main versions of these and I chose the NSLUMO brand, although the box says Vinstar, as they had more obvious beehive rings which looked more period and made the LED's less visible. They have the E and SAE codes on the lenses. Can get them on Amazon or eBay. The other two popular brands are WIPAC and RDX.


I also imported from the UK some chrome plated brass rings for the more old school look. Bought from Parts for Classic Land Rovers. https://www.ebay.com.au/str/classic-...p2047675.l2563


Probably still prefer the chrome ring around the 39 Chevy LED's, but couldn't get matching reversing lights, only stop/tail for the rear set. If anybody in Australia wants the Chevy LED's, will sell them for $70 AUD which is below what it cost me to land them here.


The LR upgrade pack came with a LED flasher relay, but the donor Jeep does not run one and uses the Front Control Module to control them. The lights would glow as soon as the computer became active and then would be dim and hyper flash when turned on. I fitted a 50w 6 Ohm load resistor between the positive and negative wires. 4 in total just for the indicators/turn signals as the circuit is split left to right and front to rear. So one for each corner of the vehicle, but didn't need extra for the side ones.


Got a nice classic look to them but with the modern twist I am after.


So front lights now all working and finished. I also got the final two chrome parking sensors for the bumper as well.

Marcus:aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia

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post #740 of 749 Old 09-29-2020, 08:38 AM
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I really like the look of the defender lights w/ the bezels Marcus, excellent choice!

Hoss
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post #741 of 749 Old 09-29-2020, 03:46 PM
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Looks good! Have to take every little bit of progress you can get, it all adds up in the end. Or at least that's what I keep telling myself
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post #742 of 749 Old 10-15-2020, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Sometimes I still wonder if the grille is too plain?


Grille looks better front on though.


Trying a single stock grille bar on as really think the Jeep signature look is seeing the ends of the slots.


Looks a bit funny being it is now too short with the wider grille, even thought it matches the bonnet emblem.


Just tacked on ends from another grille bar to make it full length across the grille like it was stock.


Still looks alright from the front. Better than no bars?

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post #743 of 749 Old 10-16-2020, 06:19 AM
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My personal opinion (which ultimately has no bearing here at all as it's your truck) is no cross bar on the grill. I think it breaks it up too much, even with just the one. Looks like an after thought to me, but then again I don't much about the old ones at all. Just what it looks like now.
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post #744 of 749 Old 10-16-2020, 07:09 AM
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My personal opinion (which ultimately requires that you do what I say) is to leave it plain. Clean is classy.

You nailed it when you changed the dimensions of the slots. I think it really looks sweet like it is.
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post #745 of 749 Old 10-16-2020, 07:57 AM
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I think it depends on final paint, and the bar color.

If you do go with a bar, I like the full width and agree it's better than narrow (stock) width

I think my preference for the look would be

1. Middle bar chromed like the bumper
2. Plain
3. Top , bottom and middle, full width bars and chrome.

The paint is going to make a big difference in the appearance of the grill openings, and overall look of the front end.

Hoss
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post #746 of 749 Old 10-16-2020, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
My personal opinion (which ultimately requires that you do what I say) is to leave it plain. Clean is classy.

You nailed it when you changed the dimensions of the slots. I think it really looks sweet like it is.
I have to agree... It is just cleaner without the bar and is a bit more modern, which goes with the whole rest-mod vibe.
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post #747 of 749 Old 10-16-2020, 01:20 PM
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None or maybe top and bottom. Trying to send a picture of mine with top and bottom
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post #748 of 749 Old 10-16-2020, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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I think that is a good point about the paint. The slots will shrink in size if a darker colour is used and will look completely different to now.
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post #749 of 749 Old 10-16-2020, 04:13 PM
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I think that is a good point about the paint. The slots will shrink in size if a darker colour is used and will look completely different to now.
EXACTLY.

its very prominent spatially right now, the voids actually take the forefront.

That should change with body color AND Brightwork

Honestly, I couldn't stand the single narrow bar at first, but now it has grown on me, it emulates the bumper line and spatial break, albeit minimally across the grill.

It might be just enough to tie the whole front end together, but.... I think you'll have to decide AFTER paint, or at least with a painted photoshop.

Hoss
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