GrandWillys Project - Page 36 - JeepForum.com
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post #526 of 638 Old 03-11-2020, 04:08 PM
NashvilleTJ
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Originally Posted by Wrangler266 View Post
Jesus man, this is awesome. Can't wait to hear it run.

Can you post a soundrecording of it whenever you're ready?



keep up the good work!

Math


Heck with the engine, Im waiting for the recording of that horn!

Nice work Marcus.

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post #527 of 638 Old 03-11-2020, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Heck with the engine, Im waiting for the recording of that horn!

Nice work Marcus.
Ha ha, does sound like nothing else on today's roads, that is for sure!

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Victoria, Australia

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post #528 of 638 Old 03-14-2020, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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Always looking at things outside of the automotive area to see if they can be utilised. What I am making here is a simple bonnet prop. The components are all 316 stainless steel normally used for bimini tops on boats.


I drilled and tapped some 5mm-3/16" steel and welded it to the flange of the bonnet support to hold the plastic storage clip.


I wanted it to sit up as high as possible towards the bonnet skin to give me the clearance over the suspension tower support.


The hinge is attached to another 5mm-3/16" plate that was welded inside the front support. The whole support could then be finally welded in place after it was all painted underneath.


The stainless tubing is 22mm-7/8"x1.6mm-16g to suit the bimini ends. There are other sizes as well. They were just expoxied into place.


The support is just swung to the side and forward and the end sits between two gussets that reinforce the top of the fan surround. The bonnet is kept nice and high to give plenty of working space on the sides.


Clips nicely out of the way for storage. I looked at fitting, and even tried, two gas struts instead. But more bonnet supports would have to be added and thought to just use the KISS principle instead. This also allows me to flip the bonnet right back against the front of the cab should I need clear access from the side near the firewall.


I had also planned to use this style of bimini hinge for the grille supports at each end. Thought it would look rather neat. But because I added the box tubing as part of the front guard strengthening, the grille is already fully supported and has no flexing like normal.
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post #529 of 638 Old 03-19-2020, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Having suffered 'car-owner' virus the last 10 years of this build, business as usual with self quarantine isolation in the workshop.


For the lower bonnet prop mount I made a retainer from some scrap stainless and a stainless screw with some of the thread removed.


The bends ensure that the pin is exactly 90* to the prop end fitting. The pin was threaded into a tapped hole in the bracket.


Pin goes through the existing fitting hole and stops the bonnet ever being blown back into the cab with a big gust of wind.
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post #530 of 638 Old 03-20-2020, 09:35 AM
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Sure looks like a VIRUS FREE GRAND WILLYS....
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post #531 of 638 Old 03-21-2020, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Sure looks like a VIRUS FREE GRAND WILLYS....
Ha ha, good one.

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post #532 of 638 Old 03-21-2020, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Working on the front stone tray or valance that goes between the grille and tucks under the bumper. The two outer creases normally line up with the outer edges of the centre part of the grille, but because I added the extra two slots, it needs to be widened. Same for the flat part on each side as well.


Fortunately I was given a spare valance by a good friend Christos that I can use for parts.


The spare is the top one after I stripped over a 1/4" of filler over the whole panel. They had tried to flatten the centre rib and creases to make it smooth.


Flattening the centre rib caused the angled part to change so it no longer matched the grille and also for it to bow. Basically they stretched out a tuck shrink. I have started to hammer it back in using a rounded chisel.


Worked the sides back in using another rounded chisel that matched the curvature.


The back one is the spare now with the centre rib back in place. I soaked it in a tub of double strength vinegar for a few days to get rid of the rust. I don't have my citric acid bath setup anymore.


It now matches the width of the centre part of the grille but I don't like how the factory gap is bigger along the flat part.


Made some adjustments and it is much better now.


I have brought material up from the back flange to extend its length. I did this over a stake with a rounded top that fitted up inside the radius. I kept the valance sitting above the stake the amount I wanted it to extend by. Then hammered across the top of the valance from the back towards the front widening the top of the radius.


Once that was done, I needed to get the radius back to the same size again. I kept the stake in the back of the radius and then hammered out the excess down the front face of the valance. This is hard to explain!


Now the gap is the same as well as the radius along the top. It will sit a bit further out than this as the valance will be frame mounted and not touching the rubber body mounted grille.

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post #533 of 638 Old 03-24-2020, 06:40 AM
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Very nice. It make me want to got to the shop and practice hammering on some metal.
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post #534 of 638 Old 03-24-2020, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Very nice. It make me want to got to the shop and practice hammering on some metal.
Excellent. First thing I ever did, as far as learning to shape rather than fold things, was making a bowl. It really teaches you what needs to be stretched and what parts needs to be shrunk. I still picture that in my head as I work metal.
With a bowl you can make it by all shrinking or all stretching. But a combination of both works best. The edges need to be shrunk and/or the centre stretched.

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post #535 of 638 Old 03-28-2020, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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I need to have somewhere to put some recovery hooks and thought using the mounting bolt dimples could work once modified.


To get the hooks to sit completely level I had a steel block clamped underneath right on the edge of where I wanted the crease to form. Then hammered down with the brick bolster.


Directly under the tray will be a heavy bracket going back to the frame and also for mounting the bumper too.


Next I finished off making the tray wider to match the grille. Normally I would have added a single wider piece at the V to flat transition, but knew it would have moved the place I wanted the tow hooks to line up with the bracket. So added a strip on the outside of the dimple area. This was welded with the MIG in one pass but manually pulsing the trigger, never allowing the orange colour to disappear from the weld before adding more.


I always check the penetration on the back to see if any spots need to be added to before any grinding has taken place. This way you have more weld thickness on the front side to protect against a blowout. Can see where it was colder at the start of the weld and I had to add some. If you do the slow spaced tack technique you are facing this along the whole weld. I never have my welds crack when planishing as I believe this technique largely removes the problem of the MIG where rapid heating from cold causes brittleness.


For the first time I thought I would try the automatic pulse, or spot timer, on my MIG to see how that would compare. I just held the trigger and had the timer set to 0.5 second intervals.


Full penetration but way too much weld even though it was the identical setting to the last weld where I did it manually. Good news that it didn't blow through anywhere though. I will try a lower setting next time. Steel is 1.2mm or 18 gauge.


Width now correct across the grille.
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post #536 of 638 Old 03-28-2020, 09:20 PM
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Marcus

You are going to have to wrap this project up (and relatively soon) as I've completely run out of superlatives.



Hoss
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post #537 of 638 Old 03-29-2020, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Marcus

You are going to have to wrap this project up (and relatively soon) as I've completely run out of superlatives.



Hoss
Ha ha, that is great to hear.

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post #538 of 638 Old 04-03-2020, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Because the tray is now wider, the curve doesn't match the stock width bumper, especially as the bumper curve tightens towards the ends. I have notched out the flange back to the new bend line.


I start bending the flange flat using the mallet and then a panel hammer.


I also hammer from the back hitting directly on the old bend line to force the ridge on the opposite side up into the crease.


Using nothing more than an old wood splitter head I turned into a stake, I slowly bend the flange along the new line. Even though I cannot see where it is once I move away from the edge, I watch the reflection which shows exactly where it is bending. Doing light taps to start with means it is easy to adjust where it is bending.


Even bending over a wide straight edge, I can still produce a shallow curve.


Previous tension in the panel and the tighter curve towards the end, has made it bend. Some of this will straighten once I cut the excess material away using a cutoff wheel due to its heat shrinking it.


Once I cut the flange to an even width again, I used a chaser to hammer along the bend line to crisp up the fold. This also causes some stretching to further straighten the flange. Using a shrinker on the edge rather than the fold line will also straighten it. For straightening this flange, stretching at the fold does the same thing as shrinking along the edge.


Overall the tray is narrower than stock by 20mm-3/4" to compensate for the extra depth of the grille and width of the tray.


Mockup with the hooks in place in front of the grille.

Marcus:aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia

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post #539 of 638 Old 04-04-2020, 09:15 AM
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All that for a little extra downforce at the track, eh?

That looks great, Marcus. Are you all sheltering in place down under?
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post #540 of 638 Old 04-04-2020, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Now to make some brackets to support the tray, recovery hooks and bumper. I bought some 100x50mm-4"x2" C channel. I prefer C channel over U channel as the flanges are parallel rather than tapered. I couldn't have any bolts through it without making a levelling wedge first with U channel.


I could not buy angle in the size I wanted and got the bonus of thicker flanges too. The very ends have been tapered to 6* to match the bumper flange angles as they will be bolted through them. I left the flange as long as I could to give lateral support from any off centre pulling on the hooks.


Back in 2012, before boxing the chassis, I had welded some 10mm-3/8" thick bar in place ready to accept drilling and tapping of the bumper brackets! There is a total of three M12 10.9 bolts holding each bracket onto the chassis.


As I have made the tray level so the hooks are not on a downward 6* angle, I needed to bend down the tray edge where it tucks under the bumper flange. After shrinking the tray flanges at each end, I hammered with the bolster along the line with the tray upside down and over the rubber mat.


All bolted in place for the first time.


Technically the bumper is 40mm-1.5" further forward than stock as that is how much I moved the grille forward. But I think it looks just right at that distance.


Bumper is just clamped in place at the moment and still have to drill and bolt it on.

Marcus:aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia

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