GrandWillys Project - Page 30 - JeepForum.com
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post #436 of 469 Old 09-22-2019, 05:10 PM
jlcoble
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Sounds like a n amassing holiday glad to see your back at the willy

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post #437 of 469 Old 09-22-2019, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
Gojeep
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Many thanks for the replies and glad to back at it too, refreshed and raring to go.
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post #438 of 469 Old 09-28-2019, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
Gojeep
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Sorry but a bit picture heavy!

I am making a piece to fit between the two suspension tower braces to stiffen them up some more. I am just using some 2mm-14g cold rolled galvanised steel I had which is the thickest the dimple dies can take. You see the scrap test piece to workout the correct depth I needed to achieve.


The ends will also be flared. I broke the fold line using the tipping die on my bead roller. Being cold rolled and so thick I only could go this far.


Tipped it the rest of the way with a modified high crown hammer over a stake dolly I had made years ago for this sort of work.


I machined a step into the end of the male die to match the smaller hole I am using to get extra flare depth. The female die was lined up with a previously marked line as the smaller hole doesn't allow the normal alignment.


Both pieces ready for assembly.


I have them just sitting on top of each other to make sure the gap between them is the same as the centre of the brace where they will be fitted.


Welded the two halves together and ground the welds smooth. Used a die grinder and then hand filed them with a half moon file before using a flap wheel in a drill.


Can see the penetration coming through to the inside.


Ready to fit.


I welded as much as I could in situ to keep correct alignment. For some practice on thicker metal I just used the tig without a filler rod to fuse the join.


On the backside I thought I would try using some 1.2mm, (0.45), mig wire as a filler. Went a lot quicker and easier.


I used the lay wire technique where you leave the wire in the join and run over it with the torch rather than feeding the wire in. Gives good consistency. Remember to have your filler wire and torch at 90* to each other.


I had also lowered the brace some more as I am not going to be running the stock engine cover. Most likely none at all.


It made a lot of difference to the overall stiffness as had to use the press to make some adjustments to get it to sit on perfectly. Before I could just force some movement by hand.

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post #439 of 469 Old 09-28-2019, 09:02 AM
NashvilleTJ
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Thatís really slick.
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post #440 of 469 Old 09-30-2019, 04:14 AM
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Wow man! This is awesome!
I enjoy to look at your craftsmanship!
Carry on I say.


Math
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post #441 of 469 Old 10-06-2019, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
Gojeep
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Not much was picture worthy this week so will only show a little bit of what was done to save boredom.


I have always planned more bracing of the suspension tower to frame connection. I waited until I made sure I had the clearance needed first. I want to plate down to the inside of the frame. Not going to be that simple as the tower is at a different angle to the inside edge of the frame which also starts to curve at the back edge. The gap at the top front is how much the plate has to twist to fit.


I picked these cast forms up from a military collector I bought my trailer from. No idea what they were for but use them to shape steel over.


Using 4mm plate the same as the frame thickness. Being hot rolled as well makes it harder to shape


It now follows both the frame edge and the suspension tower.


I drilled three holes like the tower brace above the engine. I left the ends open so I can still run any wiring and pipe work through.


Should be all that is needed now to keep the towers from flexing.


Took the cab off to weld the body mounts in place.

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post #442 of 469 Old 10-07-2019, 07:27 AM
99sajeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Should be all that is needed now to keep the towers from flexing.
Marcus, that looks race-worthy right there! Pretty stout.
You've put a ton of support into the frame, specifically to overcome flexing (which I get), but have you any concerns that it might be too stiff now? I know the GC suspension is fairly compliant, but you've got a frame worthy of a race setup now (although might be a bit overweight for that...). You'll definitely be able to do some spirited driving now!

Love this build, btw!
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post #443 of 469 Old 10-07-2019, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
Gojeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99sajeep View Post
Marcus, that looks race-worthy right there! Pretty stout.
You've put a ton of support into the frame, specifically to overcome flexing (which I get), but have you any concerns that it might be too stiff now? I know the GC suspension is fairly compliant, but you've got a frame worthy of a race setup now (although might be a bit overweight for that...). You'll definitely be able to do some spirited driving now!

Love this build, btw!
Many thanks for your comments.
It is always best to have the suspension do all the control and never the frame. Easier to set ride/handling characteristics via spring rates and damper valving. Having the engine set back 7" from stock behind the axle centerline will help handling too. Technically a mid mount now. Should handle alright for a 1948 pick up truck I think, though no canyon carver.
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post #444 of 469 Old 10-14-2019, 12:55 AM
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looking great!
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post #445 of 469 Old 10-19-2019, 05:33 AM Thread Starter
Gojeep
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The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry.


Suffering from the flow on effect of adding the spare tyre under the floor. Things I had planned to put there now have to find a new home. The charcoal canister on the donor went on the outside of the rail here. I was just going to swap it to the inside before the exhaust was run to this side to go around the spare.


I thought maybe here, but after taking out the rear springs to check clearance at full compression, it was not going to work.


Laying it on its side would work but would have to change the orientation of the vent control valve.


From the factory the vent control valve was like this. When the charcoal canister was laid over horizontally, like on a JK Jeep Wrangler, the valve was still positioned vertically.


Well, I saw that it had different clocking positions possible, so only had to refit it 90* differently to make it work.


But before I went any further, I thought where am I going to fit the battery which I had planned to be where the spare is now too? It was too close to the exhaust if I put it opposite the canister, so out came my lovely K member to make room for it!


Whipped up another less elaborate K member one bay further back


Can see where the term K member comes from. It works just as well back here as it will stop the chassis trying to turn into a parallelogram anywhere along the rails.


There was more room above the fuel tank here too as it drops down at the top. Plumbing worked out better here as was actually too close before. The small left over line connects to the fuel filler vent port and the vent control valve to a vent filter also mounted there. That won't be done until after the bed is made.


I have also run the fuel and vent lines which just clicked back into place without change. The brake lines were also run.


All lines were just clipped into the donor factory holders in the same positions along the frame too. No bending was even needed!

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post #446 of 469 Old 10-19-2019, 10:01 AM
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Marcus

Amazing, as always!

Just curious if you have a 'rough list' left of things to do?

I know in my mind from my own past builds (which literally fail in comparison and scope to yours) ; but I've never built anything with so much factory/ new componentry.



Hoss
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post #447 of 469 Old 10-19-2019, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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I do have such a list in my head and the hardest is just not doing what is the fun most productive parts, just to make it look good quickly. Then be left with a stack of tedious things that can stall a project as big as this. What order to do things too so you are not redoing things. That is why I have left the inner guards for now until I know where the battery, ABS pump, airbox etc need to go incase special shapes or mounts have to be built into it.
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post #448 of 469 Old 10-26-2019, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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From this 2mm-14g cold rolled galvanised steel, I am going to make a battery tray.


My folder has trouble folding a narrow edge as there is not enough leverage against it, so did it by hand over the edge of the bench. I sometimes start with a wider piece and cut it back after folding.


My Chinese made folder can't handle this at all so back to my old home built one. Still use it for things like this.


I am using a DIN75 case battery, https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/...75lh%20mf/info as it exceeds the original stock donor specifications for the HEMI V8. They have a ledge running around the bottom of the case which the double fold at the back of the tray will sit over.


I put two nut inserts in so that the angle piece will press down on the front ledge of the battery case holding it down. This is the way DIN batteries are most often held in place.


I installed the inserts from the bottom as thought it would be neater. The two flared holes reduce the weight while adding stiffness to the bottom and giving drainage.


Also going to use nut inserts to hold the battery tray in place on the cross members. Normally the collar around the insert sits proud, but I want it flush so you don't get a build up of dirt between the tray sides and the cross member. So I re-ground a drill bit that matched the outside diameter of the insert with flat cutting edges like used when drilling sheet metal.


Only drilled just enough so that the collar sat flush.


Drilled the centre out to suit the insert. You can also buy special bits to do this exact job of creating the recess for the insert.


The nut inserts work like a heavy duty rivet except the mandrel doesn't stay in the rivet once finished. You actually screw the mandrel into the insert and thread it back out again afterwards.


I used four M10 inserts to hold the tray in place. It has to hold a 20kg-44lb battery.


The underside of the bed floor will be level with the cross members on the left of picture. I have 30mm-1.25" clearance above the battery. Gives me enough height to clear the 15mm-5/8" front lip of the tray when fitting and removing the battery. The mufflers run under the tray but are 125mm-5" away from the bottom of the tray.
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Marcus:aka. Gojeep
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post #449 of 469 Old 10-26-2019, 05:53 PM
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I dont always post it but just know i get excited for these updates every time i see them. Awesome work
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post #450 of 469 Old 10-26-2019, 07:53 PM
NashvilleTJ
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The nutzert installer is one of my favorite tools. Nice work doing the flush mount - I'll have to remember that trick.
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