GrandWillys Project - Page 29 - JeepForum.com
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post #421 of 470 Old 08-02-2019, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
Gojeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrangler266 View Post
Hi there GoJeep,

What a awesome rebuild man!
I keep following this project from Holland and wish you all the best with it.
Keep up the good work!

Math
Cool. That is where my parents are from.


Marcus:aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia

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post #422 of 470 Old 08-03-2019, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
Gojeep
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Decided to extend the chassis to take the spare wheel. I had to add what was lost with the 100mm-4" step I put in as well. I turned the heat up to get good penetration.


Crossmember welded back in place.


I cut out a spare wheel carrier with a cable winch on it. Even though the winch just unbolts, I took the whole cross member to use. It was however setup for an offset wheel so the exhaust could run down one side of it.


This setup came from a 2001-2006 Hyundai Santa Fe 4wd. I cut the ends off the cross member, with one side longer than the other, and swapped ends to centre the winch cable.


I also recessed the tyre supports an extra 13mm-1/2" to get the wheel up as much as possible. From two Santa Fe's I cut the short tyre supports as well.


All welded into place


I chose a cable tyre winch over the chain type as the latter rattle the excess chain around. The donor Grand Cherokee had a cable one as well, but the winding point was accessed through the floor and I didn't want that.


This is a 235/80R17 tyre which is 31.5" tall. I only left 5mm-3/16" each side to spare to get it in easier. I still need to get a matching Hyundai jack handle, or make one, to operate it. The wrecking yard throws them away so no one can use jacks in the yard.


It tucks up nicely out of the way and won't be seen from the side once the frame skirts go on. You can see I have raised it 50mm-2" higher than the top of the chassis. I did this for extra ground clearance when offroading and that the crank handle doesn't have to pass right through the rear cross member. This is also the height of the floor supports for the bed, so it doesn't take any extra space.

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Victoria, Australia

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post #423 of 470 Old 08-03-2019, 11:45 AM
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One word.....: craftsmanship! Thumbs up!
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post #424 of 470 Old 08-08-2019, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the exhaust cannot run out the middle as per the factory centre outlets of the SRT model that the system was made for. I still had the factory single stainless system which is the same diameter, 70mm-2.75", as just one of the new pipes.


Re-routing the right side was easy as I only had to cut and flip the exhaust over. I used the left side dogleg instead as it reached over further to where I wanted it.


It looks odd sitting out that far at the moment, but the chassis had been narrowed to fit the donor suspension in the right place. The bed will actually be wider than stock and cover the rear muffler and will be behind the frame skirts.


So with the muffler on the left placed to match the other side, I just have to get it across. First have to clear the pinion flange, top of the diff and sway bar at full suspension compression. Then turn before hitting the left side upper control arm bracket, under the cross member before going through a hole in the next, miss the shock absorber and then line up with the back of the muffler!


I cut the exhaust off just before the last bend and also found a section from the original system that lines up with a hole in the panhard bar support cross member and the muffler. Just have these bends left to complete the system.


Using one of the bends from the right side dogleg and the rest of the original system gets me pretty close. I am just using hose clamps to keep things in place while mocking up.


I am just going to fuse weld the system together using the tig. 1.6mm-16 gauge lanthanated tungsten to match the same gauge tubing wall thickness.


I just draw a straight line using a ruler over the hose clamps before disassembly. Better than small marks as you can make sure the line is still straight after tacking in case it wasn't butted up square.


I have used a paint strip disc to clean the old stainless and also the welds. If you don't clean the welds, either mechanically or with acid to pacify them, it will rust there.


Just had to meet the two sections together between the cross members. Needed a slight bend. I measured the furthest and narrowest side of the gap and found a bend that would match it. I used hose clamps as a guide to draw my cut lines around making sure they match the smallest and largest measurements.


The bend lined up first go using this method so will tack it in place in situ to make sure it all lines up after welding.


Have the two hangers in place with two more to go after the mufflers. It worked out better than I expected actually as was going to buy new bends, but actually had to use every little factory bend to clear everything and was the only routing that I could have taken. From this view it looks like I could have just taken a 90* bend after the cross member and then run in front of the tyre before going down the the muffler on the other side. But there just isn't the room as the diff would have hit it at full compression and the panhard cross member is deep on the left side.

Marcus:aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia

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post #425 of 470 Old 08-09-2019, 07:53 AM
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The exhaust turned out good, not surprised. I built mine the same way, using mostly bends from scavenged exhaust systems, and really enjoyed the project. I have a lot of suspension travel and not a lot of room so I can relate to the tight quarters that the exhaust has to live in.
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post #426 of 470 Old 08-09-2019, 08:52 AM
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Nice work. Exhaust is always challenging in a build like this, but as always you make it look easy. When I dropped the 392 Hemi in my LJ, the exhaust was by far the most challenging task.
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post #427 of 470 Old 08-18-2019, 08:11 PM
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Any new progress I can't wait to see your progress
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post #428 of 470 Old 08-20-2019, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
Gojeep
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Originally Posted by jlcoble View Post
Any new progress I can't wait to see your progress
I'm currently on the other side of the world to the Willys in Sicily right now, and wont be back for another month.
Thanks for showing an interest in the updates though.

Marcus:aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia

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post #429 of 470 Old 08-21-2019, 09:42 AM
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Hi there, Gojeep.
Aha! Sicily is a great place to be. Remember the Godfather trilogie..... And the famous quote of Don Corleone: I'll make him an offer he can't refuse. HaHa!
Hope you stay out of trouble there, because you have a project to finish...


Math
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post #430 of 470 Old 08-22-2019, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
Gojeep
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Originally Posted by Wrangler266 View Post
Hi there, Gojeep.
Aha! Sicily is a great place to be. Remember the Godfather trilogie..... And the famous quote of Don Corleone: I'll make him an offer he can't refuse. HaHa!
Hope you stay out of trouble there, because you have a project to finish...


Math
Ha ha, thanks Math.
Only just got out of there as they are crazy drivers and very small streets!
In Rome now seeing the sights after 20 years since the last time.

Marcus:aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia

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post #431 of 470 Old 08-22-2019, 03:53 PM
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Sounds like the right way to holiday!



Hoss
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post #432 of 470 Old 09-21-2019, 02:12 PM
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You make it home from your holiday any updates can't wait to see your progress
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post #433 of 470 Old 09-21-2019, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
Gojeep
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Back from 5 weeks country and island hopping around the Mediterranean Sea. Ticked of bucket list items like diving inside a ship wreck off the coast of Cyprus, to climbing up and exploring the ancient ruins of Masada in Israel!


Now to fit up the resonators. They had 3" S shaped bends welded on to get the tips down and closer together. I didn't need that so cut them, the tips and the hangers off. I had some 3" stainless steel tubing left over from the nudge bar from my other Jeep. I had used the rest of its bends to make a new tailpipe for it too!


When I cut the bends off I left the original factory mig welds in place. I have just sat the straight piece of tubing straight on top, so not welded yet in this shot.


To weld the new tailpipes on I used the tig to heat the mig weld and wash over the join. The side is done and you might be able to make out the join still on the untouched weld across the top in front of the mig weld.


Tigged the join all the way around.


Hit it with a stainless steel hand brush to stop it oxidising.


Both done. I also welded up the drain hole so I could rotate the seam to the top and re-drilled the hole at the bottom.


Using the original hanger hardware and just folded up a bracket which I drilled for the isolator posts and then tigged them into place.


Bracket welded on and all the weight is now on the hangers only. The bed floor is wider than the rails and will cover the exhaust and the frame skirts will hide them from the side.


The tips are just sitting there as I don't know exactly how long I need the tailpipe to be yet.
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Marcus:aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia

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post #434 of 470 Old 09-22-2019, 08:25 AM
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Glad you're back at it and am certainly glad you had a good trip.
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post #435 of 470 Old 09-22-2019, 09:35 AM
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Well, your time away certainly did not diminish your welding skills... Great work as always.
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