GrandWillys Project - Page 27 - JeepForum.com
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post #391 of 470 Old 07-23-2019, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
Gojeep
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Originally Posted by underscore View Post
It'll depend a bit on the style of tire you go with and the look you're going for, but my vote is for the 30.5.
I only do 4wd camping now a days so only be a mild AT tyre.

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post #392 of 470 Old 07-23-2019, 07:56 PM
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As for the turn signals (lights) I'll add my 2 bits

1 headlights. Please do not go w/ the new style / multi LED's. They look horrible on a retro vehicle.
2. The larger of the two turn signals (factory) look cool, but agree too small. Rather than going w/ something bigger, If I was you and had your skills). I'd do a larger accent or recess in the metal around them so that they had a larger impact, but still same size

Hoss
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post #393 of 470 Old 07-23-2019, 09:41 PM
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And unrelated, but I just went back to the start of this thread, and after examining post #6 in detail, I do think you should add 3 grill crossbar.

I think those, plus the bumper will transform how the headlights and marker lights look/ work

Hoss
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post #394 of 470 Old 07-23-2019, 11:19 PM
jbjorgen
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The proportions look best to me with the 31.5" tire.
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post #395 of 470 Old 07-24-2019, 05:59 AM
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Have you considered the Truck Lite brand lights? In the link below, I have the first one (27270C) on my bike and I really like it. That said, I see they have the 27291C that may look a little cleaner. It also has the correct beam pattern for you upside-down guys . If you decide against the more modern LED, there's always the 27004 and 27012.

I do really like JoonHoss' idea for the signals though, a slight recess would be a killer detail around the small housings.

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs...atalogId=10002
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post #396 of 470 Old 07-24-2019, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by caulk04 View Post
Have you considered the Truck Lite brand lights? In the link below, I have the first one (27270C) on my bike and I really like it. That said, I see they have the 27291C that may look a little cleaner. It also has the correct beam pattern for you upside-down guys . If you decide against the more modern LED, there's always the 27004 and 27012.

I do really like JoonHoss' idea for the signals though, a slight recess would be a killer detail around the small housings.

http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs...atalogId=10002
Thanks for the link as had not spotted the version for RHD. This one was actually sold under the same NARVA brand here but they changed to the current model. Does look more classic.


New NARVA.


Truck-Lite.

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post #397 of 470 Old 07-25-2019, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Now why I have been looking at choosing my tyre size is that I have always wanted to put my spare under the bed on a cable winch like the donor had. But there is not enough length between the cross members and have the centrally mounted SRT Corsa exhaust in the way as well. Was pretty amazing that the whole exhaust bolted in in the first place, but thinking I might run the resonators wider apart under the chassis rails.
Should I cross right over left so total length will be the same on each side? Otherwise the left has crossed the chassis twice adding extra length and theoretically have slightly more resistance than the right.


If I go for the 30.5" tall tyres, I could just cut out the rear cross member and turn it around so it is not recessed between the chassis rails. That would give me access to the towbar again too!


Been toying with the idea of using a profile that kicks up vertically like the Willys Army trailers.


Now I want to see if the proportions still work if I extend the bed to take the spare wheel. The stock bed length is 2030mm-80" but has lost 175mm-7" due to the cab extension, so gaining some back would be great. I don't want an unbalanced look either that you often get after a cab extension.


This is with the bed long enough to take either sized spare wheel and 65mm-2.5" further behind the axle centreline than stock. The sides are also 3" higher than stock, now level with the top of the ribs running across the back of the cab rather than finishing under them.


The Willys beds have a separate piece under the side which is part of the sub frame. I have it next to the chassis rails here which would be great if I can do this as wouldn't have to raise the floor then. This is because I have raised the chassis rails 100mm-4" to get the stock up travel from the donor suspension.


Added the frame skirts. Starting to look a bit 'bulky'


Thought maybe the stake pockets will help break up the bulkiness of it. This is with three stake pockets the same as the stock Willys bed.


Maybe a step in front of the wheel guard helps like on the pre 53 models?


Raised the step so level with the bottom of the cab rather than under it like stock.


Removed the vertical piece of the bed giving the same height and profile of a stock bed. This will match the stock tailgate I have better and can use pre 53 Chev sides which are available here in Australia and closely match the originals. Will just have to modify them to suit the length.


Last try is cutting 75mm-3" out of the height, but putting the vertical section back in. So overall height is the same as the last shot finishing under the ribs. I also rounded the end of the frame skirt. Least if I do the mock up with cardboard, it costs nothing. Which version looks best and can I get away with the extra bed length to fit the spare in underneath? I will also be lengthening the top of the rear guards to better match the front, so the bed will look a bit shorter too after doing that. Either version will also have the roll along the top edge.


Stock Willys bed for reference.

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post #398 of 470 Old 07-26-2019, 07:10 AM
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You have done so much to maintain the stock lines I would go with the Chevy sides.
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post #399 of 470 Old 07-26-2019, 07:25 AM
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I really think I like it lower like it was stock. I don't think the ribs on the back of the cab should be covered up. It was looking a bit bulky with the higher sides too.
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post #400 of 470 Old 07-26-2019, 09:38 AM
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Bed stakes look good. I think the slightly longer length bed looks fine. The step should be raised so the bottom is flush with the bottom of the cab like you did. As for the height, I donít think I really have an opinion on that part. But I think with the longer cab, stretching the bed wonít be an issue as far as looks. And functionally it will be way better to have the tire under the bed where you want it. The whole point of this project is modern, reliable, functional vehicle with old school looks, right? I think you should maintain that functional theme wherever you can.


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post #401 of 470 Old 07-27-2019, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RedJeepster1 View Post
And functionally it will be way better to have the tire under the bed where you want it. The whole point of this project is modern, reliable, functional vehicle with old school looks, right? I think you should maintain that functional theme wherever you can.


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Hit the nail right on the head.

One of my main worries since planning this build was how do you protect from the elements and from sticky fingers nicking your stuff out of the back? I thought a hard cover would be the best solution, but you lose a lot of height with the head board and tailgate only being as high as the vertical part of the sides. My fridge won't fit when I am camping unless I switch to a draw type one. A taller box type bed, still finishing under the 3 ribs, without the angle part making it wider near the top would be more practical.



Like the ones used on the D100 stepside Dodges. Still have the rolled edge along the sides. I wouldn't do the heavy pressed impressions though and could use 54 Chevy sides and just lift them up more. Which ever way I go I would still use the Willys rear guards to match the front. Not sure how it would look on the Willys though?



Same truck from a different angle and one of the reasons I don't like a too short box either.

Could also build a custom metal trunk to put inside the bed and vent it to hold the fridge and things? Maybe a surplus military crate?

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post #402 of 470 Old 07-28-2019, 01:14 AM
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I like the last mock up with it below the ribs it puts the bed close to the same height as the hood. imo it just looks better that way as far as the steps I like the stock location so they line up with the fender up front
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post #403 of 470 Old 07-28-2019, 04:23 AM Thread Starter
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Well I have been taking suggestions on board and tried some out tonight using photopaint. Thanks to all the have been helping with ideas. So I have the rear guard blend into the step like it does on the front and added a rear one as well. Here the front part is level with the bottom of the cab and the rear under the frame skirt I had before.


I left the rear as is and ran the front one under the cab.

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post #404 of 470 Old 07-28-2019, 12:12 PM
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Under the cab looks great in my opinion. Your truck is going to be amazing it is sema quality. I can't wait to see it finished
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post #405 of 470 Old 07-29-2019, 02:56 AM
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Just curious. Are you going to run the state pockets all the way down or will they stay like that? I know they are like that on the original. I was just wondering what it would look like if they went all the way down to the step like on the Dodge?
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