GrandWillys Project - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Still busy drilling out all the spot welds to remove the floor from the uni-body frame


I have ground the drill bit into what called a pilot point. These only work once a pilot hole has been drilled first. Then the centre part of the drill sits in this to locate the bit and then the cutting edges are almost flat to give a very shallow cut. The angle is less than what shows on this angle of shot.


You can see that all the drill holes on the lower part of the picture is what is left after only drilling the large hole through the top layer of the spot welded metal only. Much easier to just weld the small pilot hole up then the whole spot weld size.


But as you can see there is an awful lot of them to be done!

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post #17 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Finally after 400 odd spot welds drilled out, the floor and firewall is separated from the uni-frame.
Quite substantial as 4" deep and further reinforced with another hat section inside of that as well.
Good to see how well all the galvanized steel is coated through and through. Was even between each layer of steel also.


Will be leaving the floor stiffener in place as it is the rear mount for the seats and seat belts.
I did quite well on drilling out all the spot welds too with one or two one breaking right through the floor panel that I wanted left undrilled apart from the pilot hole. There was a few others when a bracket had to be removed from the top side as well so had to be drilled from both sides, but not bad going when you have to stop the drill bit each time only 1.2mm short of drilling through. Learnt a trick right near the end of tapping in a cold chisel into the joint and then you would here a crack just as the spot weld broke from the floor. Of coarse only discovered this with less than a dozen to go!


Not sure if I can keep where the cowl juts out or not. It was for the air intake for the heater and A/C and where the wiper motor and linkages sit. Not useful for either as they are needed under the cowl in the Willys and not the bonnet where this sits in the Grand.


Still undecided on how to best use the rear suspension mounts. At the width it sits, the rails with upper and lower control arm and coil mounts would nearly fit between the Willys chassis whole. So could leave them mounted to the rails and weld this to the inside of the Willys chassis.
I will keep this section as one piece until I know how to use it best. Want to use the mounts either way and they are made from HSLC ( High Strength Low Carbon ) steel and is 30-40% stronger than normal steel and has a higher corrosion resistance as well.
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post #18 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Well that is the last of the Grand Cherokee cut up and carried out of the workshop.
Next phase will be bringing the Willys back in and doing lots of comparative measurements to workout how best marry the two!
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post #19 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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The poor little shed is busting at the seams! Managed to fit nearly the whole Grand in there apart the rear quarters, roof and rear floor plus the front sub assembly. Cant wait to start taking things back out of there as means I am actually putting things back together or sold some parts I don't need.


Been a while since there has been a clear floor.


Willys going into the workshop. This is why I made my benches fold down easily. Tight, but it fits.


Hard to believe that that engine will one day sit in the Willys.


Ready to be set at the height where I will take the measurements I need before pulling it apart.
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post #20 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Got the fun of trying to think of every thing needed before strip down begins. Takes a lot of time with nothing to see for it, but essential all the same.


I was able to have the radiator nearly 3" closer than what it was in the Grand. Will still leave me enough room to change a belt. I was careful when removing the drivetrain to keep it at the angle it will remain at once installed. The radiator has also been set to the finished angle to get a better idea of working room behind it.


Another problem I ran into was that because I have to move the axle, steering and suspension etc forward 6" to centre the wheels under the front guards, the oil filter will end up on top of the steering rack. Not a problem for a LHD, but it is for me. But it looks like I can just remove the whole angled filter mount and spin the filter directly onto the block instead and have it vertical.


If I want to mount the Grands firewall in the stock Willys location, I will have to come up with a different power steering and hydraulic fan cooler. Would save loosing interior space, even if it is only a 1.5", but am extending the cab anyway around 6" so not that much of a concern. If I do move the firewall back that far though, I can use the Grands stock aluminium rear drive shaft.
Also moving it back will give me a bit more depth in the dash in front of the windscreen to mount my instruments that in the Grand sat in a leather clad pod into the top of the dash. Will also compare door opening to firewall depths between the two vehicles. The other thing is the cowl vent might end up partially over the firewall so has to be checked as well.
Fun and games.
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post #21 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Got a few hours spare to at least do some clean up in the back.


Been spending a lot of time before that working out exactly what needed to be done to fit the suspension and drivetrain into the Willys frame.
I don't want this sitting jacked up in the air as want good road handling, but it wont be sitting on the ground either as not the theme I am going for. It must remain perfectly practical for interstate drives etc.
My limiting factor was the underside of the front guards. I can only drop the body over the suspension until the upper front wishbone, at full compression, does not hit the underside of the front guards. To get the whole Grands sub frame to sit under the frame to get that height, I have to step up the height of the front of the chassis by 2" while leaving the chassis under cab unchanged.


Who says I don't ever get the floor dirty! Was a good bucket full to clean this up.


So now have the floor and its cross members out and the fuel tank.
In the rear the frame will be kicked up 4" and will be running level with the top of the old cross members that supported the floor. I intend to drop the floor cross members in between the frame rails to keep it low in the stock position and so there is no big step up when you open the tailgate.
The 4" rise will mean I can install the rear suspension at the same relative height as it was installed stock in the Grand compared to the front. This keeps the roll centres front and rear at the same height as when installed in the Grand. All suspension points, including upper coil mounts, will be made to be at the same height as well so will be running stock control arm and panhard angles.
Any further ride height adjustments will be fine turned with different coils front and rear.
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post #22 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Bed is cut up and gone. Just got to workout how to remove the 8" channel that has been used as a rear bumper, and even bent, along with 3/4" plate for a hitch point.


Got the monstrosity of a rear bumper made from 8" channel cut off.


Got the front panels all off and didn't even break a single bolt! Spraying them with WD40 once a month for the last year must have paid off.


Door just came out easily too. Was ready shocked as these only have Phillips head screws holding them on which are prone to stripping.


Cabs all cleaned out and ready to be lifted off.
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post #23 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Woo hoo, time to lift off the cab. Rolled the chassis and cab under my carport in front of the workshop where I still have this winch setup. It is a boat trailer winch that is though bolted to the centre carport post. The cable then runs over a pipe that it bolted between two rafters. The lifting frame was when many years ago I had a roof top tent that I made this setup for so I could simply park under it and remove or install it by myself. Just left the camper pack sitting up in the air the rest of the time.


We have lift off. Was very easy and fuss free and my wife even did all the winching by herself.


Back down on a old shopping trolley base ready to go for a ride.


Got some strange looks as we had to go up the footpath.


And around the corner to the front of the house.


Will sit in the garage where the camper trailer normally lives until I am ready to work on it.


Chassis is now ready for the big strip down. Heard it can be quite hard removing all the frame rivets and there are plenty of those holding every bracket and cross member in. Hoping grinding the head off and then using an air chisel with a punch bit will work. Got some rose welds to try and remove as well without damaging the cross member inside the rail.
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post #24 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Had a bit if think of the best way to remove these big rosette or plug welds which hold the front cross member in. I didn't want a big hole left in the front cross member after wards as well as might be reusing it.


So thought I would use the same drill bit I ground up to take out the spot welds, as it drills flat rather than a chamfered hole, and stop before going into the cross member. You can see one done now and the next one ready with the pilot holes drilled.


Didn't need to drill the center hole in the end so didn't drill that when doing the other side. It easily broke free when I drove a cold chisel in a bit.


What a MESS! Who would think a frame could hold so much dirt. Seeing this Willys came off a potato farm until it was sold off when he was done for cultivating drugs, it is not surprising! Maybe I should keep the soil and water it to see what come up!
There is just so much more to remove than just the cross members to get down the bare rails.


This angle gives you a bit of idea how much kick up the frame has at each end. I will be increasing that by another 2" front and 4" rear.
Now I must be off to clean the workshop
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post #25 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Rails have come up much better than expected after several hours of grinding and wire brushing them clean. Only thing is I counted a 111 rivet holes that will all be needed to be welded up in each rail.


This gives you an idea of the frame bends horizontally before I start modifying it to suit the suspension pickup points of the donor Grands rear and its front sub frame.


Rear height where the coil mount will sit. Will increase this by 100mm/4"


This is the starting height at the front of the frame rail where the front mount of the Grands sub frame will bolt in. Will have to raise this point by bending the front of the rail upwards.


This is the only rust on the whole frame and at the same place on the other rail too. It is where the frame kicks up behind the cab. This happened as some one had added a extra plate to the outside which was only stitched welded on and the gaps let the water and dust in. Rail is bent more than it should be slightly at this point which is fine as will be bending it more anyway.
Thinking of cutting this section out, but leaving the flanges, and adding in a new piece with the extra curve in it that I need, and then bend the flanges to suit it.


Found what looks to be a frame manufactures date too. 9.11.58. Hard to make out the last figure now though as thought I was removing more from the top of it and it disappeared instead.
So parts so far are 50 years apart with the Grand Cherokee donor being made in 2008. Still hoping to pick up another donor made in 1948 for the other half of the frame and body work too if the guy will ever set a reasonable price.
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post #26 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Removed the bent knuckle that took some of the impact from the Harley hitting it. Can see here just how much it bent compared to the new one on the right. Glad really that the cast aluminium knuckle bent rather than the cast steel lower or the forged upper wishbone did. Their mounts were unaffected too.


Both of these are sitting dead flat on the lower ball joint surface. Amazing how much change there is in vertical height as well.


Removed the Hemi, trans and transfercase from the subframe so I can work on mounting the engine mounts further back in the sub frame so the axle centre line is centred in the wheel arch.


Moving the engine back meant that the oil filter would end up on top of my steering rack. Noticed that it was fitted to an angled adaptor so removed it.


This left this behind but with nothing to screw the filter back on to.


This is the adaptor with the threaded part for the oil filter and the oil pressure gauge sender.


The threaded section just simply unscrewed with an Allen key and installed into the block directly.


The adaptor also had the oil pressure gauge sender so had to find a new place for that. Noticed this plug above the oil temperature sender.


The oil pressure sensor was too big to fit into the upper hole, so swapped the oil temp sensor in there instead. The thread however on the oil pressure sender was too small and I didn't have an adaptor. So I drilled out the plug that was in the upper port originally and threaded it for the sensor and installed it that way
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post #27 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Gives you a better idea of the sub frame that holds everything under the uni-bodied Grand Cherokee. Just held in place with four big bolts. I will be doing the same so I can bolt it under the Willys frame.
Paint damage in the front corner is from the battery acid leaking on to it after battery was split in the impact with a tree after being hit by the Harley.


Just got to workout how I will make my new engine mounts once I move them 175mm back on this frame to centre the axle under the wheel arch. As the frame drops away steeply, cant just weld the old brackets back in place. Also going to end up over the top of the rear diff mount on the far side.
Going to be fun setting it exactly right too as the mounts are 16mm lower on one side and 18 mm further across than the other side. Cant centre it otherwise the front driveshaft would hit the side of the transmission. They also have to have a 5.5 degree tilt to match the stock engine angle.
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post #28 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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What's up with the way they routed the hose along the bottom of the cross member? Starts in the middle of the fan when in place, then goes across all the way to one side, then the other side, back part of the way and then over the cross member before entering the steering rack!
I take it is something left over from a LHD to RHD design change? Can't see any other reason for it.


Taken the front diff out. Nice finned alloy cover and axle housing.


Got a nice alloy oil pan on the engine too standard. If you can see it after it is installed, might have to give it a polish!


Here is the sub frame stripped bare.
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post #29 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Before I removed the engine mounts, I made up this little jig to make it easier to setup the new ones. They tilt 5.5 degrees back and are different heights left to right to match the mounts on the block, so felt this was the way to go.


Removed the engine mounts and mocked up the front cradle 175 mm further forward than it was before. Good news was that the oil filter change of position cleared the steering rack easily.


Even with the steering shaft roughly in place, there is still plenty of clearance around the oil filter.


The only thing I ran into was making sure the left engine mount cleared the diff support bracket.


Got to make sure the new engine mount does not interfere with the front diff pinion support inside this bracket.


I set the floor and firewall up in place to make sure previous measurements were correct. They were exactly right but it was still nice to confirm before I go welding in the engine mounts in next.
Also checked the radiator position to see how it would all fit within the engine bay.
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post #30 of 638 Old 07-31-2017, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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I setup my engine mount jig 175mm further back so the engine sits the same distance off the firewall but centres the front axle in the wheel wells. Had to raise it 3/4" above the what it was in the sub frame originally to clear the diff mount, but is still an 1" lower compared to the original floor height.
Having it this far back will give much better front to rear weight balance for better handling as well.


Good old OJ carton use to make a template for the new mounts.


Knew it would come in handy one day. Brought this home when doing the structural steel work on the Hoppers Crossing College back in 1986! Bit overkill being 102x150x6 mm RHS ( 4"x6"x1/4" ) but had the perfect internal size to match the engine mounts on the block.
Who would have thought that one end of this would be holding up a college building, and the other a HEMI!


Clean up the tubing and placed my template over it. Made sure the bolt hole on each side matched perfectly.


Don't own a oxy or a plasma, so out with the 9" grinder.


Fitting up nicely.




On to the other side. Healthy Choice meal box this time.


Just managed to squeeze in the other side from the same piece of RHS ( Rectangle Hollow Section ) tubing.






Fitted like a glove and just pushed the bolts through with my finger.


Other side. Haven't gone for anything fancy as impossible to see them once installed in the Willys. Strong and functional though.


Sorry about getting carried away with the photos, but feel it is my first bit of construction on the project.
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