The Death and Resurrection of a YJ - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 07-10-2019, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
Recon26
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The Death and Resurrection of a YJ

I don't do build threads because I generally take forever to get things done. Now that I've got a ton of things done on this 1989 YJ since I got my dirty hands on it about 2 1/2 years ago, I suppose it's time to get one going so I can enter those YJ of the Month contest thinger majiggers!

Unfortunately, I have gone to a new platform of phone in the time since I have purchased the FuglYJ, as I call it, so much of this will be brutally out of order. The first few posts will be as it sits as of July, 2019 with some follow on posts of the early days I had it and while it was being operated on. No real step by step, but some good in progress photos that are saved on my computer as this post and a few to follow will have just what's on my phone.

In the photos you can see the old 4.2 still in the hole while I was pulling things off.

Then we got it out.

I picked up the 4.0 from eBay I got for $685 shipped to a local terminal. They had video of it running in the 98 Grand Cherokee it was in which was a huge selling point. Also, the seller was very responsive and helpful so I felt comfortable with the purchase, and I can tell you after driving it, it was well worth it.

You can see the BA10 chilling underneath, I never pulled it. I left it attached to the transfer case and both driveshaft. It was only loosely bolted to the transmission mount for manipulation when attaching the engine.

The last pictures, if they show in the correct order, are of the correct pilot bushing/bearing from Advance Adapters, PN# 716156GM, for adapting the 4.0 to the BA10. Because the 4.0 of those years normally mated to a manual transmission with a .75 input shaft, it will not be able to use the stock pilot bushing. This $25.27 machined piece of lubed bronze oilite material fits into the normally unused large outer hole of the crank instead of the smaller inner hole. It is 1.818" in diameter and fit perfectly in the crank and over the input shaft of the BA10. When I dropped in the engine, I did it myself, and it wasn't that hard with a hoist and pry bar to twist the engine to line up bolt holes. It lined up very easy.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/produ...-id-x-1818-od/


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Quote:
Originally Posted by molshove View Post
Oh...and if you love your rig, do not buy rough country, or skyjacker anything :)
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post #2 of 6 Old 07-10-2019, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
Recon26
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I travel for work a lot during the summer, so my work on the Jeep time gets beat down pretty hard. Combine that with brutal heat in South Carolina and an uncooled garage, and I make for a sweaty dude who doesn't always find the motivation or the time to get out there.

These pictures are out of order and don't include the bracket i had to make for the power steering pump, but whatever.

The engine is in the hole attached to the transmission but hanging from the hoist. It actually was like this for about 6 weeks while i was gone/back for a week/gone again for work.

Attached is also the layout of a 98 TJ belt routing without A/C as my engine came with brackets but without accessories. The problem that I was unaware of at the time is that the TJ and ZJ alternator and A/C brackets aren't exactly the same. I was able to get the non-A/C belt on the A/C belt accessories placement, but the adjustment pulley is maxed out all the way to allow to belt to go through from crank to power steering pulley and I still had to pry it on with a screwdriver. It didn't require any tension to be set to be at the proper belt tension. When I replace this belt, I will try the A/C belt for the TJ and see if that allows me to apply tension with the tensioner pulley. It doesn't squeak or squeal, so I'm happy.

The other pictures are of the 4.2 alternator I got from Power Master that is a 150 amp one wire set up. It is awesome and works great. But not on this engine, bec6the brackets are different and the alternator will line up in anyway. So I bought the HD alternator for a 98 ZJ which outputs 130 amps from Rock Auto and it bolted right in. Even came with the pulley.

Because I was running a 4.2 before, I had a carb. Then I switched to a 4.0 head and a Clifford intake with 4.0 header, TJ wrap around down pipe, and FiTech Go Street 400. Then the engine blew a couple days later, which is why I did the swap. So I pulled all the stock intake and exhaust off the 4.0 and put the header and Clifford intake with FiTech on the 4.0 from the 4.2 as I had none of the wiring or computer stuff to run the stock injection system.

Because of the intake swap, the power steering pump didn't line up with the intake and I had to cobble together a bracket from 1/8 sheet and 1/8 angle iron. It's ugly, but its functional.

The stock YJ power steering hoses bolt right into the 98 4.0 power steering pump and so far don't leak. You'll see a picture later on.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by molshove View Post
Oh...and if you love your rig, do not buy rough country, or skyjacker anything :)
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post #3 of 6 Old 07-10-2019, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
Recon26
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What I forgot to talk about in the post above was the shifter pulled out of the transmission. When I first put the engine in and bled the new master cylinder and retarded internal slave cylinder, the transmission went into and out of gear as well as I thought it should for a 30 year old French transmission. Suddenly the shifter was stuck in neutral and the transmission was stuck in gear!

After some sleuthing around on the www, I figured out that the BA10 loves to do the bologna. Awesome. So I had to adjust the shift rod back into the correct position by pulling the shifter out, sticking a flathead screwdriver into the opening and attempt move things until something actually did. It took a few minutes to figure it out as I really had no idea what was what in there, but once something moved, I made sure it lined up correctly with other things that looked the same. Then I stuck the shifter back in, pushed in the clutch, and the gears shifted!

I was happy, so i put it together and moved on to finish the engine install.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by molshove View Post
Oh...and if you love your rig, do not buy rough country, or skyjacker anything :)
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post #4 of 6 Old 07-10-2019, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Here you can see my interior shots. The seats are gray textured vinyl and they are pretty good, not the best. I wish I had more leg and arm room, but I'm 6' tall, since my YJ doesn't have seat sliders, I'm kind of SOL right now.

The dash is the original stock gray dash that I sanded lightly with 220, bondo'd the two or three cracks it had, the flocked it. First off, its messy as hell. Second off, it looks and feels so awesome. So much better than any dash mat cover you can buy, and I spent maybe $50 to $60 total.

The rear speakers are 6.5" Boss speakers in .50 cal ammo cans. The front speakers are 4x6 Boss speakers in the stockish location.

The obvious change is the dash itself. That was one sheet of 18 gauge steel cut to size based on the original dash panel and bent in a brake at work. I then took measurements and transferred all the mounting holes and got stainless allen heads and black allen heads in a few places. I primed and painted it, but wrapped it in charcoal gray vinyl I got from Amazon.

Thos are Autometer Sport Comp gauges, the speedometer is the GPS version and the antenna is routed to the rollbar behind the driver seat. It acquires satellites quickly and even in my garage.

The heater and defroster works, but I must have wired it wrong (I rewired the whole Jeep) and the fan stays on as long as the controller is plugged in. I used a universal wiring harness that was good, but the YJ wiring was a mess. My wiring was jacked, even the remaining stock original wiring didn't totally match on the schematics I downloaded for all the YJ years. I had the guess and second guess a lot of stuff. Which would probably explain why my reverse light and license plate lights don't work, either. The best part? I do a ton of electrical and electronics work for work. It dumb founds me why that stuff doesn't work as I've gone through them several times.

I changed out the wiper switch with a CJ switch as mine never worked right on the stall to begin with. I put a 12V power supply and ground to various wires of the wiper motor to figure it out, it was a piece of cake. I have low speed, high speed, and windshield wash with the stock washer pump. Next to the wiper switch is the headlight switch, a traditional pull style with dash dimming and by turning far enough, turns on the cabin lights I attached under the dash and near the driver and passenger seats. The brights are still controlled with the blinker stalk.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by molshove View Post
Oh...and if you love your rig, do not buy rough country, or skyjacker anything :)
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post #5 of 6 Old 07-10-2019, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the FuglYJ. The red is the original faded paint and the black is some crappy bed liner someone put on at some time. It blows and I can't wait to put a wire wheel on my grinder and get it off.

When we bought it, it came with a really bad top and this old bikini top. We bought a new Rampage top that works, but it sucks. This bikini top is pretty stretched out with age.

The tail lights are from Amazon, the reverse light is from superbrightleds.com and super bright if I could only get that circuit to work. The license plate holder and antenna bracket are from Motobilt and they are fantastic. Too bad the license plate bolt lights aren't working either. They tested fine, maybe I screwed that circuit, too.

The good events are the black powder coated aluminum vent from Gen-Right. Very nice, comes with the template for cutting the hood and it's very easy to do.

The upper light bar is a radiance series from Rigid and it's awesome. I currently do not have the radiance portion hooked up to power, but it is just the white. The dogs in the stock turn signal location are the flush mount spots from Rigid. I predrilled the steel back there, then went to Home Depot and got those automotive nut clips that slide on for mounting the lights. It worked really well. The turn signals in the fenders are temporary, I'm actually going to trim a lot of the front fender away and will be putting some 3/4" orange LEDs above the fogs and below the heads in a more tasteful manner. Maybe two in an arc to follow the fender line.

Yes, I plan I repainting the damn thing, but I already had enough "might as do it while I'm here..." things creep on me while I was working on it that I was starting to burn out. I've had this thing for 2 1/2 years but have driven it maybe 100 miles as it's been one problem after another.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by molshove View Post
Oh...and if you love your rig, do not buy rough country, or skyjacker anything :)
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-14-2019, 02:59 PM
lovett86
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Location: brantford
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Nice jeep

its a rusty one

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/90-yj-frame-swap-build-up-1434246/
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