B2CARPEN's 2000 Jeep TJ 4.7L Stroker Build - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 721 Old 10-10-2014, 10:02 AM
mikeferg
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So what made you choose the stroker over just putting a v8 in? I ask because I'm still on the fence on what I should do to my lj.

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post #62 of 721 Old 10-10-2014, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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So what made you choose the stroker over just putting a v8 in? I ask because I'm still on the fence on what I should do to my lj.
That is a good question and I was contemplating the v8 route as well. There's a lot of good choice v8s that would drop into our jeeps with little effort, but there's many reasons I chose to rebuild my own motor into a stroker..

I originally was going to just rebuild my 4.0L, so I already had everything fully apart and ready to go. Rebuilding a stock 4.0 or building a stroker really involves the same steps and is not that different in cost if you plan on going the budget route. You can build a short rod stroker for about the same cost if you source the crank and rods from a yard, or from the classifieds. Mine has moved away from a budget build and into more of a medium buck stroker with modified or brand new internals, forged pistons, fully modified head, and high quality machining work.

I also like the idea of keeping the original equipment with the jeep.. I can keep the same engine and accessories, same wiring harness and ecu, same fuel delivery with the exception of larger injectors, and same NV3550 trans and 231 transfer case. This saves a ton of money (unless you find a fully equipped engine / trans deal) and I don't have to deal with adapters, wiring nightmares, engine mounting locations, and clearance issues. Also keep the same weight distribution with my 4.0L compared to a cast iron v8.

I also don't care for a high revving high HP application for my jeep, I have my twin turbo audi S4 for that. I'm more interested in high torque numbers and having that power throughout the entire rpm range. This is ideal to me for that daily driving fun factor and for rock crawling and ripping through the dunes and trails.


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post #63 of 721 Old 10-10-2014, 05:48 PM
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I think either would be enough power but the 42rle seems to rob a good bit of zip out of the 4.0 l by itself. So the transmission will be changed. I guess it just depends on how long I can live without driving the jeep.
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post #64 of 721 Old 10-10-2014, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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I can't wait for this again, it's been years...



badlands_3.jpeg


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post #65 of 721 Old 10-11-2014, 07:37 AM
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It looks awesome. I just want an ultimate hunting tool and something I can pull my atv with and not need to run beside it up hills. I need to figure out if I should just use the aw4 out of a cherokee of a th700r4.
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post #66 of 721 Old 10-11-2014, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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It looks awesome. I just want an ultimate hunting tool and something I can pull my atv with and not need to run beside it up hills. I need to figure out if I should just use the aw4 out of a cherokee of a th700r4.
Thanks man, and IMO a 4.7L Stroker with the appropriate axle gearing ratio / tire size would handle more than your needs. As for your trans issues, you could look into selling your current trans and buying something better and not be too behind with the recouped funds.


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post #67 of 721 Old 10-11-2014, 07:39 PM
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Amazing to see how far its come. First time we went out it was damn near stock and you had like no wheeling experience time. Things sure have changed.

It Wouldn't Be A Project If Everything Worked Right.
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post #68 of 721 Old 10-11-2014, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Amazing to see how far its come. First time we went out it was damn near stock and you had like no wheeling experience time. Things sure have changed.
You Drew and I at the cliffs, I was running a rough county 2.5" suspension lift with 33s and open axles. That was my first time wheeling and you helped me and guided me through that entire day.. you also buried your jeep deep in mud lol.

You were my hero


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post #69 of 721 Old 10-12-2014, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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I began working on the cylinder head and starting in the combustion chambers. It took me a while to get a good technique down since this is my first port & polish job but it became easier as I got use to the carbide cutting tips and sanding cartridge rolls.

Here's a pic of an untouched chamber for reference, you can see all the casting flash and burrs throughout the surface...







Those craters and sharp huge ledges not only cause poor air flow, they also create hot spots that can cause pre-detination (pinging) with higher compression ratios. I plan on smoothing out each chamber and then match chamber volume (cc's), then perform a final polish buff.

Here's some progress I made on chamber #2...







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post #70 of 721 Old 10-14-2014, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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I now have two combustion chambers smoothed out and 4 more to go. I keep going back to chambers ive been working on to do more final touches as i pick up new techniques and gain confidence. This is definitely an artform and this is why the experts get paid the big bucks for port / polish head work. I'm 5 hours into this and I've already learned more than I did when I first started, and that's after hours and hours of reading about other DIY'ers does and donts and watching techniques on youtube (aussie heads, jafromobile, headbytes porting <-- this guy knows his ****).

In case anyone wants to do the same and is wondering what I'm using for this job...

-Harbor Freight Variable Speed Rotary Tool <-- for all 1/8" shank bits and accessories
-Dremel Flex Shaft <-- amazing and a must have
-Huskey Air Die Grinder I've had for many years <-- used for all 1/4" shank bits

-Summit Racing 3-Piece Ferrous Carbide DeBurr Kit p/n SUM-900640 (modified to 3.5" length for easier handling)
-Summit Racing Porting and Polishing Kit p/n SUM-G1060 (92 piece assortment of 80 and 120 grit sandrolls and two mandrels)
-80 and 120 grit dremel flap wheels
-Harbor Freight 249 Piece Rotary Tool Accessory set


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post #71 of 721 Old 10-15-2014, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Spent some more time shaping chambers #1 and #2 to get a good base example to follow for the remaining chambers. The key here is smoothness and airflow, removing all corners and angles and attempting to get a swooping effect around the valve seats. If you compare these pics to the last pics you will be able to see the progress and changes made...











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post #72 of 721 Old 10-18-2014, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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So I've been continuing my progress on the combustion side of the head, I swear after a few hours of staring at these chambers I begin to feel like they are staring back at me lol.

Look at this friendly looking little face...



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post #73 of 721 Old 10-18-2014, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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I just purchased some standard abrasive cross buffs from summit racing. 20 medium grit and 20 very fine, all 1" diameter. These will transform the chambers into an ultra bling polished finish, even moreso than what I posted previously.

I have 3/4" med grit powerhouse cross buffs will aluminum oxide material that helped get the semi-bling finish currently, but the larger buffs will finish the job much better and remove those small fine scratches.
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post #74 of 721 Old 10-19-2014, 08:08 AM
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I can't wait for this again, it's been years...



Attachment 1649042
That's been a while. Sorry about yelling at you that day......

OlllllllO

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post #75 of 721 Old 10-19-2014, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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That's been a while. Sorry about yelling at you that day......
Hahaha... dude I needed a good spotter to guide me along while I learned my new setup (LAs, 4.88 gearing).. you can yell at me whenever you want

My biggest issues with my setup were ride height and no sway bars, that unstable setup will be addressed and corrected before you see me out there again. Man it's been way too long...


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