B2CARPEN's 2000 Jeep TJ 4.7L Stroker Build - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 721 Old 10-02-2014, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
B2CARPEN
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Now for the fun part, AMC 258 remanned crank from crankshaft rebuilders, ground down, polished, and balanced. 0.020 rod journals and 0.010 main bearings. This is the light weight 258 with only 4 counter weights, for the 4.2L from 1987-1990. It has the same snout as our 242 cranks so it's a simple drop in.







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post #32 of 721 Old 10-02-2014, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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There's two common routes to take when building a stroker motor..

- 4.2L crank with 4.2L rods (short rod) and standard height 4.0L pistons (low buck / poor man stroker)

Or

- 4.2L crank with 4.0L rods (long rod) and custom height pistons (medium/high buck stroker depending on CR and supporting factors)

I'm taking the second route listed using Keith Black custom height premium forged ICON pistons (IC944-060), which I have in my possession


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post #33 of 721 Old 10-02-2014, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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Keith Black premium forged pistons with 0.060 over bore...



















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post #34 of 721 Old 10-02-2014, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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I almost want to buy one extra piston to keep on my desk at work or something since I won't be seeing them again after they are installed in the block. These look so badass in person and so much better craftsmanship than the sealed power cast pistons that are standard height.


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post #35 of 721 Old 10-02-2014, 09:54 PM
OkLaHoMaTJ
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Very cool. Thanks for sharing!!

My Thread - https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/another-lj-rubicon-thread-1516486/
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post #36 of 721 Old 10-02-2014, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Compared to the sealed power cast pistons (H802CP) standard size. These are excellent cast pistons and a good upgrade from the stock pistons, but don't even compare to the KB ICON forged pistons.







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post #37 of 721 Old 10-03-2014, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Here's the amc 242 8 counterweight crank (stock) compared to the amc 258 4 counterweight crank (stroker). The stock crank is much heavier as you can see by the size and number of the counterweights...







My jeep without a face...



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post #38 of 721 Old 10-03-2014, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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In a few posts above from yesterday you can look at the KB ICON pistons compared to the sealed power pistons and notice the difference in wrist pin location. The KB ICON forged pistons are much shorter with a deeper 21cc dish to account for the longer 4.0L connecting rods. The longer vs shorter rods have less angle at half stroke which helps with engine wear and is said to produce more mid to high range HP and can run a higher rpm.


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post #39 of 721 Old 10-05-2014, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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The block, head, stroker crank, rods, pistons, even my headers and intake are with the machine shop as of last Friday.

- The intake and headers are going to be thermo cleaned and shot blasted at no extra charge, so they will appear brand new when I pick them up next week.

- The rods will be removed from the stock cast pistons then thermo cleaned and shot blasted to a smooth finish as well. Tony will return them back to me before the new pistons are installed so I can polish them, then return them back to Tony for assembly and weight matched.

- The cylinder head will be checked for stress fractures, then thermo cleaned and shot blasted. I will be getting the head back next week as well so I can port and polish the intake and exhaust ports.

- The stroker crank will be balance tested and journal pins / main bearings checked.

- The block wont be worked on for a couple weeks since Tony is booked, but once he's able the block will be checked for stress fractures, thermo cleaned and spot blasted, align bore and hone the crank mains if needed, bore cylinders 0.060 over and hone, decked based on desired compression ratio, cam bearings replaced...

More updates as things begin to progress


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post #40 of 721 Old 10-05-2014, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Sealed power hi volume low pressure oil pump...





I snapped a few pics while I was inside the shop on Friday, a gearhead's dream shop!...



Engine dyno...



Crankshafts galore...



A couple old engines here for teardown and rebuild. Tony does everything from machining to building race engines, to even painting and detailing them when finished. Look at that second engine, a rare flat head engine..



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post #41 of 721 Old 10-05-2014, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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While I'm waiting on the machine shop so I can begin porting the head, I've decided to do some well needed mall crawler maintenance.. I removed the rokman sliders and aluminum full corners and will be getting them down to bare metal and going over then again with some satin black and high temp clearcoat. For those of you that remember when I first painted them, they looked amazing.. but the reason why the steel sliders rusted so quickly was due to lack of prep. I didn't scotch pad the surface and the paint did not stick well to the brand new smooth metal surfaces. That will not be a problem this time around.


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post #42 of 721 Old 10-06-2014, 02:26 AM
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Well I am really excited to follow this build, I'd love to know how much this ends up costing because in the next year or so I plan building a stroker of my own on a college kid budget and I have dreamed over your KB pistons for oh so long. Following this build for sure!

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post #43 of 721 Old 10-06-2014, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CommandoSolo View Post
Well I am really excited to follow this build, I'd love to know how much this ends up costing because in the next year or so I plan building a stroker of my own on a college kid budget and I have dreamed over your KB pistons for oh so long. Following this build for sure!
Thanks man! I'm very excited as well and I will definitely share as much as possible about my stroker in this build thread, including parts selection, part numbers and prices, and machine shop services and pricing.

You can pull off a budget stroker build without a problem. I'm definitely spending a lot more with the machine shop than I originally planned, but that's for insurance reasons when I start assembling the block and all the tolerances are good.


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post #44 of 721 Old 10-06-2014, 01:40 PM
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You'll always find that forged Pistons are the way to go. Have a set in our '66 GTO, '71 442 and soon my Willys. Like that you know better than to cut out a machine shop. Have you heard good things about this guy?

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post #45 of 721 Old 10-06-2014, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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You'll always find that forged Pistons are the way to go. Have a set in our '66 GTO, '71 442 and soon my Willys. Like that you know better than to cut out a machine shop. Have you heard good things about this guy?
Absolutely, quality parts and quality machine work are the differences between strokers that run like crap and get into issues and become a nightmare, and strokers that are powerful and smooth and have long term rigidity.

I plan on making big power and torque and will be driving this stroker hard, reliability and longevity.

Tony has an excellent rep and supports quite a few racing teams and has machined a ton of AMC 258s and 242s, so I'm definitely in good hands. The prices are a little bit more than other shops around here but the extra work and effort he puts into everything completely makes up for it.

Build thread for that willys?


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