'00 TJ build, new to links and TJ's. Lots to do. - Page 15 - JeepForum.com
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post #211 of 299 Old 04-13-2019, 06:37 PM
Wojoe
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
RE steering gear? What does RE stand for in this context? Used to that meaning Rubicon Express, but I don't think they make a TJ steering gear and if they did I wouldn't buy it. For 35s I would just run your OEM steering gear until it had a problem and then I would call PSC. On steering I would change the steering links to Currie Correctlync.

While that is a nice front axle it is a big chunk of $$s that isn't 100% necessary to run 35s. With alloy shafts the D30 in there now will do fine with 35s. Sounds like you already bought the D44 though so it is what it is.

Atlas also is nice, but a big chunk of $$s and something that is pretty big. Most here find a tight tummy tuck, which is tough with that big a case, to be more useful on the trails than the upgraded TC. And the TC you have is likely a 231 (not a 28_).

The transmission is a 32RH (and yes, it is a modified TF 999). It is a very solid transmission and I wouldn't think for a second about changing it.

Eliminating ABS doesn't require any special lines or prop valves. All you have to do is cut the wires and pull a couple fuses. Plenty of us (myself included) have done that.

What CAI do you plan to do? It is correct that removing the OEM box helps with doing fenders, but most CAIs are not an upgrade and just draw hot air from under the hood. Look at doing cowl intake if you want real cold air intake.

Pusher fans can be difficult to fit (most use the space in front of the radiator for transmission and/steering coolers) and are really not necessary with TJs if the cooling system is properly functioning.

What brakes does D44 come with? At 35s OEM TJ brakes start to be potentially marginal and many will consider Vanco BBK.

That 5" RE long arm is not real popular around here. Rather than spend time and money modifying it if it were mine I'd probably pull it completely for something like Currie 4" short arm and a 1.25 BL (which will help you fit the Atlas) and sell the RE kit to somebody else.

Those TNT fenders are tube fenders? Again if it were me I'd buy some of the formed options (e.g. Poison Spyder, Nemesis) rather than tubes. Generally though I wouldn't bother changing fenders unless going to true highlines. OEMs will fit your 35s and support 5-6" of uptravel. Clearance gain claims from most non-highline aftermarket fenders are minimal to non-existent.

For armor and bumpers did you look at any of the aluminum options? Saving weight can be meaningful in performance.

You are spending a bunch of money. Might be a good idea if you did a bunch of reading here in TJ Tech before spending anymore or doing anything that prevents you from returning things you've bought already. What you know as far as mods and brands from CJ world doesn't all map over to TJ world.
Your CJ is awesome

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post #212 of 299 Old 04-13-2019, 10:15 PM
wildman4x4nut
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I also ordered a pair of Fox res shocks with the LSC. The shocks have a newer version of the adjuster that is supposed to work better up to the mid range. The Dual version are only available in 2.5 so I opted to go this route through FullStack. Paul and I discussed the Radflo, but Fox eventually topped the pile.

After looking over my current bump stops, I decide to buy a set of Currie bump stops. So when this is all done, the entire front end will be fresh!!

WSS
Awesome work as always. I really enjoy reading all your mods and how you are doing them. They don't work for some but for others they are great. You are just about ready to start enjoying some trails.
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post #213 of 299 Old 04-14-2019, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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That is something that crossed my mind as I was working through this dual battery project.

A) it is built around TNT fenders, B) the Odyssey PC1200 is not a standard size, C) One is going were ABS "was"

Before I sent off the fenders, I measured the spot for the aux battery and went ahead to make both sides identical as far as mounting. Well, when all bolted up tight, there were some issues. No matter how I tried to fit that monster, a 1/4" was missing. Very frustrating. I mulled over the idea of doing the stack again, but again, after a tightened up fender was on, it was short on dimensions. I ended up grinding some of the hood and fender to get a 1/4" gap all around. AND redraw and cut HALF the project, which really means double and then some as far as mounts. I would not recommend this route to any.



The part of the tab that is over top of fender gets cut after the bend in the brake. It is easier to get a clean break if that extra is there for the bend.

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post #214 of 299 Old 04-17-2019, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Getting a little done during the week. I have to sneak a moment or two.

Here is the layout for the dual batt controller:





parts prepped and ready for paint:



aux batt in place, I'm putting a AMG fuse inline from the aux batt:





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post #215 of 299 Old 04-17-2019, 08:49 PM
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That is looking great. I really enjoy your attention to detail and your cut parts just add to it all. What do you use to change the batteries from parallel to series? Am I understanding this correctly? For you to use the Ready Welder you need to go from having 12V to 24V. What switch do you use that can handle the amp draw?

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post #216 of 299 Old 04-18-2019, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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This is the idea:



The anderson connectors are key. Doing it this way, all the electronics are isolated and safe. the harness/yoke is direct to both batts, grounds disconnected.

I am behind on getting this done. Family has arrived, etc. LOL I have to wait till next week to finish.

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post #217 of 299 Old 04-18-2019, 10:46 PM
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I'm very interested to see if it works.

I got a bunch straightened up in my garage this week and got a support 2x4 installed for my filters. Now I need to clean up just a little more and I can really start working on my Jeep. It won't be as fast as yours but I hope it might be running before winter.

I was rereading those comments made when you first bought your TJ. If I can fit my STaK's transfer case with a Nth Degree tummy tuck skid plate then I'm sure the Atlas will fit too. Funny how I missed all those comments before. I had to rework my tranny mount a few times but I got it to work but it does and I know my t-case is larger than yours.

WILDMAN

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post #218 of 299 Old 04-19-2019, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildman4x4nut View Post
I'm very interested to see if it works.

I got a bunch straightened up in my garage this week and got a support 2x4 installed for my filters. Now I need to clean up just a little more and I can really start working on my Jeep. It won't be as fast as yours but I hope it might be running before winter.

I was rereading those comments made when you first bought your TJ. If I can fit my STaK's transfer case with a Nth Degree tummy tuck skid plate then I'm sure the Atlas will fit too. Funny how I missed all those comments before. I had to rework my tranny mount a few times but I got it to work but it does and I know my t-case is larger than yours.
I've heard that the stak replace a case is about an inch smaller than an atlas in all three dimensions. I've found dimensioned drawings of the atlas on their site, none on the stak though

I want a J-Series
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post #219 of 299 Old 04-19-2019, 02:39 PM
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I've heard that the stak replace a case is about an inch smaller than an atlas in all three dimensions. I've found dimensioned drawings of the atlas on their site, none on the stak though
I don't have a STaK replace a case. I have the 3 speed Monster box.


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post #220 of 299 Old 04-20-2019, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevlaw View Post
I've heard that the stak replace a case is about an inch smaller than an atlas in all three dimensions. I've found dimensioned drawings of the atlas on their site, none on the stak though
I don't have a STaK replace a case. I have the 3 speed Monster box.

Oh gotcha, been a while since I've seen one of those. My bad

I want a J-Series
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post #221 of 299 Old 05-03-2019, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Back at it. I pulled the front end on Wednesday. Did some prep and painting today. I hope to finish the fitting and painting tomorrow and put in the D44 Saturday.

I recieved the Fox LSC 2.0's yesterday. I highly recommend Fullstack motorsports. Personal attention, quality work and goes by his word. He installed the shocks on a TJ to get a feel for the new LSC adjuster, apparently much improved over first version!!

Here are some pics of the progress:

D30 remove








Getting ready:

I welded these on to accommodate the Fox heim





Upper heim, tight fit. Had to grind the lower part of the mount flange to allow ample front/back flex



Passenger side prepped and ready



so close

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post #222 of 299 Old 05-03-2019, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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I pulled the rear diff cover to confirm ratio and swap in a retro fit kit from OX that replaces the mechanical cable and diff cover with a air operated set up. I found it is a 4.09:1 yukon gear. I have to change it to 4.56:1. Now here is the rub.

I purchased the Currie 44 from RWK Haus in Yorba Linda. Pre sale, all was good, all was possible. I chose the 4.56 as the guy said it would cost about $400-500 to match the front. I could bring it to him and he would do it right there in his garage. Again, this was all pre sale. Once I picked up the unit (directly from Currie, he did zero work on it, probably for the best) all changed. Any question was responded to with ?I don't know, search online" or check the forums, etc.. When I asked to get the gears changed, all the sudden he does not change gears in housings with OX lockers, too many failures he said.

So, I probably avoided a grenade anyway. I have found quotes from $650 to $1200. I know the front and rear were done 20K miles ago, so I'm on the fence with bearings. Maybe it's the best way though, put in new bearings, seals etc..Be done with it.

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post #223 of 299 Old 05-03-2019, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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I realizes that I did not follow up with the fender/dual batt/isolator/air comp install!

One item I found with the new fenders was a gap that showed the engine between hood and fender, I used some body molding to close the gap works great, hardly any compression and gap is sealed, it was considered 3/8" O type



installed on hood

[IMG]https://i1344.photobucket.com/albums/p659/WSS01/TJ%20build%20pics/IMG_2015_zpsxuflhvab.jpg[/IMG

hood closed





Loomed the cables across the firewall



air comp and new washer bottle in place





isolator and combiner



I was not entirely happy with the outcome, as it felt messy and rough, not like the last CJ I did. But it all works and will provide the required need.
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post #224 of 299 Old 05-03-2019, 08:57 AM
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Do your own gears ya sissy! You prolly have all the tools you need already.


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I'm looking for a Scout II Dana 300. Drop me a line if you have any leads. Thanks
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post #225 of 299 Old 05-03-2019, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Do your own gears ya sissy! You prolly have all the tools you need already.


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Will you hold my hand through it?

What are the problems I need to watch for? I know the basic mechanical part of remove and install but have no clue how to set them up and mess with backlash.

Walk me through it, I'll try it. Only cause you called me a sissy.

WSS

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