WK Alternator Upgrades - JeepForum.com
  • 1 Post By cranbiz
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 5 Old 09-06-2019, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
D3M0N60D's Avatar
2006 WK 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Mankato
Posts: 7
Wk WK Alternator Upgrades

Trying to understand Electrical Terminology really makes my Brain cramp and is why I paid a premium price to have my Amp and Subs professionally installed for me at an Audio Specialty Shop.

When the Amp power knob is at minimum there is no problem for when I'm driving through a town with Vehicle Noise Laws but when I hit the Country Roads or the Highway and really "bump it up" the Amp starts clipping and shuts itself off WHEN my RPM's drop below 2100 (when slowing down to corner or make turns).

I had the Battery tested while between the 2000-2500 RPM range and the result is 13.8 volts. I think the 5.7L average Voltage range is 13.8-14.6 so being at 13.8 might be a low Voltage indicating even lower Voltage at lower RPM and Idle. The Battery is 2 years old and is a Mopar Battery from the Dealership when I had the Engine Swapped.

Haynes - (1)The charging system consists of the alternator, the EVR within the PCM, the ignition switch, the battery, a battery temperature sensor, a voltage gauge, a charge indicator light and the wiring between all of the components. (2)The PCM uses the signal from the battery temperature sensor and data from monitored line voltage to vary the battery charging rate.

Will the PCM prevent any higher Voltage gain from a higher Amperage Alternator? If so, what is the fix?

Also, what wiring harnesses are recommended?

Considering a 320 Amp Max. Would that be too high Amperage?

I do plan on adding a 6 channel 1000 Watt Amp for Speaker upgrades to replace the Boston Acoustics along with Color changing Halos & Headlights with ground effect lighting and interior LED's. So, I am quite sure I would need a higher output Alternator anyway. Might as well go big and save some hassle.

I talked with my Dad who is a class A Maintenance Mechanic with Electrical Engineering. Apparently how everything works is electrical components draw from the battery, the Alternator maintains the battery charge, the voltage regulator adjusts how much draw from the Alternator to keep the battery at full charge. So, it basically comes down to two things IMO; the strength/quality of the battery and/or the PCM is malfunctioning.

I'll have the OBD-II checked for any DTCs and if there are any I'll have to take the vehicle to a Dealership to be serviced, I guess.

If there's anything I've missed or since this thread is about Alternator upgrades reply with any suggestions for Alternators (brand name, amperage, wiring harnesses etc.) or any additional information.


Last edited by D3M0N60D; 09-07-2019 at 10:37 AM. Reason: Corrections
D3M0N60D is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 5 Old 09-08-2019, 08:11 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 517
More info on what kind of subs/amp you are running would help. What is amp draw of the amp and how far away from the battery is it? What gauge wire is going to the amp? What amp hour is your battery? All questions that need answers. Upgrading the alternator may help but the system should be able to work off the battery alone for a short period.
V8GCZJ is offline  
post #3 of 5 Old 09-09-2019, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
D3M0N60D's Avatar
2006 WK 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Mankato
Posts: 7
If you click on my name and select view profile and then click the garage tab on my public profile you'll see a small thumbnail picture of my Jeep called WK and click on that to get into my garage you'll see all of the information about my Jeep that I took the time to provide when I set up my profile, but, when I said in my post that I got a Mopar battery during my engine swap from the dealership and that only being 2 Years ago (April 2018), and, knowing that a dealership cost of an engine swap being $7k, and assuming that if I spent that much, why wouldn't I get a premium battery as well, might indicate that its not the battery that is the problem, but, it's got 180 CCA which means that the 1000 watt amplifier (also information contained in my garage) could draw on the battery for about 10 minutes before the alternator can't keep up with the battery drain.

I also said in the post that I had it professionally installed, so, combined with information in my garage and knowing about CB & Ham Radios. GPS, & (or) Electrical, someone should know that a 1000 watt amplifier would require a 4 gauge power wire to the battery.

I don't know why I read the sticky post about using proper punctuation or even bothered to waste the time it took to try completing my profile but, I guess I was assuming that anyone with the knowledge about electronics would also grasp algebraic reasoning skills to conclude these thought processes on their own.

D3M0N60D is offline  
post #4 of 5 Old 09-10-2019, 08:49 AM
cranbiz's Avatar
2012 JK Wrangler 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Wentworth
Posts: 4,502
Man, you come here, ask for help and then flame a guy who asked questions. Not off to a good start here.

Good luck with your issue.
williambmac likes this.

06 KJ
12 JK, 2.5" Teraflex lift, Bilstein 5100's, BFG KM3's 37x12.5/R17
17 WK2 Trailhawk
cranbiz is offline  
post #5 of 5 Old 09-11-2019, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
D3M0N60D's Avatar
2006 WK 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Mankato
Posts: 7
Off Topic. Good luck being a Moderator.

BTW I already answered my own questions in the elongated time it took for replies. I just thought if anyone cared about this Forum they would provide actually useful information about WK Alternator Upgrades for anyone else that might be looking for the same information in the future instead of excuses why they don't know and off topic criticism.

So here it is; there is no risk to installing an alternator upgrade with a higher amp capacity because the voltage regulator in the PCM will prevent the alternator from generating too much that could over heat wires or ever arc with the battery and cause a fire. Maybe this is a risk in older vehicles without voltage regulators, I don't know, but that's basically what a voltage regulator does, it regulates. All that happens during the regulation is the output from the alternator is reduced or shuts off until the regulator needs to charge the battery more because of excessive battery drain.

So, getting an alternator with a good minimum like the 320 AMP MAX - 180 AMP IDLE by "Quality Power", like I originally intended, won't be too much and will be perfect for my premium MOPAR battery at 180 CCA so that when I'm at a stop light or driving 30 mph city streets my 1000 watt amplifier won't shut itself off because the battery drained too much.

Thanks for all your help.

D3M0N60D is offline  

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.

Email Address:


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome