Want to add auxiliary reverse lights that activate by switchAND shifting to reverse - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 10-14-2019, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
Nibroc99
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Want to add auxiliary reverse lights that activate by switchAND shifting to reverse

I've got a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 2003 (WJ). Does anybody have some tips on how to have the lights come on with the reverse lights, but also have it optionally turn on via a switch on my dashboard? Schematics are extremely welcome.

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post #2 of 20 Old 10-14-2019, 12:56 PM
mukluk
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Install a standard five pin relay with the terminals wired as such:
  • 30 to stock backup light assemblies power input wire
  • 87a to stock backup light switch output wire
  • 87 to a fused power source
  • 85 to ground
  • 86 to aftermarket switch for lights

If you use a non-switched battery power source for 87 and 86, that will allow you to turn the lights on with the vehicle off. Using a switched power source for either will require the ignition to be on to use the lights.

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post #3 of 20 Old 10-14-2019, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
Nibroc99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mukluk View Post
Install a standard five pin relay with the terminals wired as such:
  • 30 to stock backup light assemblies power input wire
  • 87a to stock backup light switch output wire
  • 87 to a fused power source
  • 85 to ground
  • 86 to aftermarket switch for lights

If you use a non-switched battery power source for 87 and 86, that will allow you to turn the lights on with the vehicle off. Using a switched power source for either will require the ignition to be on to use the lights.
As usual, I was totally overthinking this - I didn't even consider using a 5-pin relay. Thank you!
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post #4 of 20 Old 10-14-2019, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Just wanted to post this helpful expanation to anybody who happens to google this and comes across this thread!
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post #5 of 20 Old 10-14-2019, 09:37 PM
Mainsail
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No switch on mine- can't imagine a reason to have one.

The reverse wire in the receiver triggers the relay, and the power comes from the 12V feed. Isolating the power from the reverse circuit.
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BU01.jpg   BU02.jpg   New01.jpg   New02.jpg  

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post #6 of 20 Old 10-14-2019, 09:48 PM
stover02limited
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Definitely easier just to tie into the reverse wire on the trailer plug than to install a relay. If your using LED lights, you've got plenty of headroom as far as amperage

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post #7 of 20 Old 10-14-2019, 09:51 PM
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BTW, if memory serves... It's the purple wire on a WJ. Just put a tap into the wire so that you can still use the plug for a trailer.

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post #8 of 20 Old 10-14-2019, 10:10 PM
Mainsail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stover02limited View Post
Definitely easier just to tie into the reverse wire on the trailer plug than to install a relay. If your using LED lights, you've got plenty of headroom as far as amperage
Quote:
Originally Posted by stover02limited View Post
BTW, if memory serves... It's the purple wire on a WJ. Just put a tap into the wire so that you can still use the plug for a trailer.
Like I mentioned, the relay isolates the power for the LEDs from the reverse circuit- if you get a short the fuse that will blow is the trailer 12v power fuse and your regular backup lights will still be working.

I didn't want to break the insulation on the factory wiring. What I have will work in my wife's Liberty or any other vehicle with a 2" receiver and the 7-pin trailer plug.

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post #9 of 20 Old 10-14-2019, 10:57 PM
stover02limited
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mainsail View Post
Like I mentioned, the relay isolates the power for the LEDs from the reverse circuit- if you get a short the fuse that will blow is the trailer 12v power fuse and your regular backup lights will still be working.
.
nothing wrong at all with the way you did it. The way I did it also uses the trailer reverse circuit, not the jeeps reverse circuit, so it works the same way. I understand not wanting to alter the factory wiring but if it's done right,it's as reliable as factory.

I did miss the OP's specific desire to have the option for having a switch. Relay is definitely best option for that, if it's worth it to him. I would still use the trailer reverse circuit for the trigger.

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post #10 of 20 Old 10-15-2019, 06:58 AM
jserna
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I installed IPF's kit on my YJ many years back, and it has worked great. However building your own is kinda fun. I did not have as much know how back then.
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post #11 of 20 Old 10-15-2019, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
Nibroc99
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I love your ideas of tieing into the trailer lights... But sadly I haven't got a trailer socket. The previous owner installed an aftermarket trailer hitch and a janky trailer lights system that really only does the turn signals and the brake lights but no reverse lights. So I will have to tir into the reverse lights themselves but that shouldn't be a problem. Thank you for your input guys!! I will be using the relay method - I go camping a lot, and the lights I'm getting are fog lights that are able to swivel, so I'd like to be able to switch them on if I need light during a campout in the woods. For me, the switch on the dash would be an ideal option. I would basically never use it while driving forward (as it's dangerous to literally the entire world of drivers behind me) except maybe on a trail.
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post #12 of 20 Old 10-15-2019, 07:15 PM
Mainsail
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I think it would simplify the job a lot if you forgo the switch on the dash altogether. The risk of forgetting it during a camp out leaving you stranded with a dead battery is pretty good, and a battery operated lantern will do the job better and more simply.

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post #13 of 20 Old 10-15-2019, 08:03 PM
RevScott
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NO! ALWAYS ISOLATE! If you tap into your trailer connector without some form of Isolation (a relay for example) and you plug a trailer in you can overload the circuit and blow out the power to the lights. However using a relay to isolate the circuit and the switched contacts of the relay between whatever you are powering, a fuse or breaker AT the battery you will prevent problems with shorts and protect the battery as well as what ever you are powering. NOW if you REALLY want to do it right, mount a rectifier diode across the relay coil so it shorts the inductive spike that will result from the coil de-energizing. remember this Diode gets connected from the positive to the negativeof the relay COIL so that it does not short out the power supplied to the coil. check it with a DMM before connecting it. On modern vehicles, the ecms can be damaged by electrical surges, A relay de-energizing will create one, and a common small rectifier diode will clamp (short) it out.
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post #14 of 20 Old 10-16-2019, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
Nibroc99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mainsail View Post
I think it would simplify the job a lot if you forgo the switch on the dash altogether. The risk of forgetting it during a camp out leaving you stranded with a dead battery is pretty good, and a battery operated lantern will do the job better and more simply.
I'll be hooking up the switch to an ignition powered source so that I can only have it turned on when the car is running. I always carry a jump pack as well, and of course a battery-operated lantern will light up a small area but I go camping with an entire boy scout troop so being able to light up an entire campsite would be really helpful if, for example, we got to the site very late and had to set up in the dark. Everybody is supposed to have their own lighting equipment, but the floodlights would certainly help! I hope that clears it up and I do appreciate all of your input!!
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post #15 of 20 Old 10-16-2019, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
Nibroc99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RevScott View Post
NO! ALWAYS ISOLATE! If you tap into your trailer connector without some form of Isolation (a relay for example) and you plug a trailer in you can overload the circuit and blow out the power to the lights. However using a relay to isolate the circuit and the switched contacts of the relay between whatever you are powering, a fuse or breaker AT the battery you will prevent problems with shorts and protect the battery as well as what ever you are powering. NOW if you REALLY want to do it right, mount a rectifier diode across the relay coil so it shorts the inductive spike that will result from the coil de-energizing. remember this Diode gets connected from the positive to the negativeof the relay COIL so that it does not short out the power supplied to the coil. check it with a DMM before connecting it. On modern vehicles, the ecms can be damaged by electrical surges, A relay de-energizing will create one, and a common small rectifier diode will clamp (short) it out.
I'll pick one up from U-Do-It Electronics this weekend to get that done right! Thanks!
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