TJ Factory Sub Replacement - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 52 Old 02-21-2011, 01:18 AM
julietkilo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odinseye84 View Post
In your link you say 1 ohm amps are always mono? There have been SEVERAL 2 channel A/B amps that are 1 ohm stable and even 1/2 ohm stereo stable, old lanzars, US amps, orion HCCA, audio art, etc.
true true orions are my favorite. i am talking about IC amps not real AB mosfet topologies.


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post #47 of 52 Old 02-21-2011, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by brfertig View Post
I know its hard to admit you were off on your help you have been giving in that area but dont take it personally. I have seen you on this board for as long as I have been on here. Your a good dude. Just getting good info out there for everyone.

Here is my writeup on the wiring of the amp and my findings.
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f20/g.../#post11015780
In this case however, I'm not wrong. Not unless they changed their amp after the initial rollout. Try breaking down the entire board and making a schematic of the entire amp together. Then you'd see where the bridges are applied. And remember, there's two sides, at least, to every circuit board... The amps I dissected were also put to the bench power and o-scope to test their actual ratings and find their clipping points and limits and real power ratings at said impedance ratings.

And even if they did change it, you're still saying the exact same thing we all have been. You're going to get ~ 18.75W with a 4-ohm sub and ~37.5W with a 2-ohm sub. So you're saying nothing new... So in the end; who cares? Even if they did change it; so what. The end results are exactly the same... And they very well might have. It's not uncommon for manufacturers to change something for something else completely that essentially does the same task. Look at the history of the TJ Fan Resistor Circuit as a prime good example. The early ones were almost bullet proof. They changed it to a smaller/cheaper and more compact one that continually fails. But the subs are the other way around. The early ones were very prone to failure, the later ones seem much more resilient. So they changed something, I assumed it was the driver though. I could easily have be mistaken. Or it could have been both. I haven't seen a later model sub package to dissect.

And I hate to be the one to break it to ya; but all amps are basically what you're calling 'IC' type amps. They all use some sort of transistor, op-amp, and/or MOSFET 'IC' (which simply means Integrated Circuit...) to handle the amplification.

Go ahead and open up you're high dollar amps; they'll look a lot like that. There will be many ICs stuck to the metal of the case for cooling and a few small signal circuits. More elaborate amps will have power cleaning circuits as well as crossover and input-sensitivity matching circuits. Unless you have some seriously old or rare tube amps with a true gain and amp circuit obviously (there are a few still out there). While it may not use class A, B or D parts, it is essentially the same thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brfertig View Post
There is no such thing as a 1 ohm mono amp after being run parallel on the outputs.
And there are 1-ohm or less stable bridged multi-channel amps out there. That statement is false...


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post #48 of 52 Old 02-21-2011, 09:27 PM
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Thats cool, in the end the stock amp is just ok. Its not capable of moving any sub particularly that well. You dont have to believe me on the traces. I have built and rebuilt more amplifiers than I care to remember. I have a workshop with a 1500 dollar oscope, 1000 dollar raythenon 100 amp programable power suppy and test amps professional and car audio. A 250 amp service to run it all. Not trying to be a know it all just saying I have worked on amps for 15 years and know a bit about them and our amp just plain isnt going to do 1 ohm.



I have proven my case with the ic datasheet and what not, maybe the amps were different at the beginning but its as you have said two posts ago "its unlikely".

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post #49 of 52 Old 02-08-2012, 12:11 AM
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Anyone know anything about constructing/buying a sub box for a jeep that didn't have a center console or stock sub in it at all?

I bought a tuffy stereo center console, 8in shallow mount pioneer sub and a mono amplifier but theres no enclosure for the underside area of the center console for the sub to fit in,

Thanks for any help anyone can offer!
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post #50 of 52 Old 08-21-2019, 04:21 PM
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Replaced rotten OE sub in my '03 TJ

I just got through replacing the subwoofer in my '03 TJ. It's been a long time since I listened to much music due to the popping I'd get. Well, I'm a product of the 70's so I don't need any heavy bass but do like some good quality sound. I ordered one of the 300W 6.5" Pyramids from Amazon. I had to drill four new holes and whittle out the inside of the speaker box, but after some aggravation I got the new speaker installed and it sounds *so* much better. Here's a shot of the old speaker. All the paper was rotted away when I opened the box up...simply rotten. Thanks for the thread, it sure helped me out!!!

Oh well, I thought I might be able to at least link to an image. But anyhow, thanks again for pointingme in this direction.

...and yeah, it's an old thread but it might help some oldie...like me.
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post #51 of 52 Old 09-18-2019, 10:30 AM
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Do you by chance have a model or part number for the speaker? I too am suffering from no sub syndrome after it went through the click/pop phase, then completely died.

Is it plug and play, or do I need to cut wires and such (which I have no issue with). Also, for anyone reading this, what speakers replace the dash and roll bars? Any good recommendations? I'm tired of crappy audio.

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post #52 of 52 Old 09-19-2019, 11:14 AM
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I don't have enough posts to be allowed to post a link so here is the item description...you should be able to search Amazon with it and come up with the $16 speaker that I used: Pyramid WX65X 6.5-Inch 300W High Power White Injected P.P. Cone Woofer


As I stated, I had to drill four new holes in the console to mount the new speaker...not a lot of room for error, but if I can do it most anyone can! Also, you will probably want to use a Dremel is you have one to trim out some of the pieces that stick up inside of the speaker box so that the new speaker will nestle down into the box like it is supposed to. There will most likely be four speaker wires going to the OE speaker...I used only two of these. Keep them paired up, take a picture of them plugged into the OE speaker so you can keep up with each pair. Be sure and tape up the wires that you don't use. Test the speaker well before putting anything back together.

Your speaker isn't making any noise? Mine still made "noise" but nothing you wanted to listen to. The center (voice?) cone was still intact but all of the surrounding diaphgram was GONE. Nothing but the little cone in the middle...lots of debris inside the box (clean it out).

This is an exceedingly high-fidelity speaker, but a usable one. It sounds good to me, but you seem to want to upgrade (you mentioned replacing your other speakers, too) so you might look for a higher quality speaker. This one is pretty good, though

Best wishes,
Ed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frontman View Post
Do you by chance have a model or part number for the speaker? I too am suffering from no sub syndrome after it went through the click/pop phase, then completely died.

Is it plug and play, or do I need to cut wires and such (which I have no issue with). Also, for anyone reading this, what speakers replace the dash and roll bars? Any good recommendations? I'm tired of crappy audio.

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