OFFROAD Lights -- eIgHt FrOnT fAcInG LEDs - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 02-06-2020, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
yelirekim
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OFFROAD Lights -- eIgHt FrOnT fAcInG LEDs

I joined yesterday. Did 10 posts cuz I wanted to see a diagram made by SirGCa mentioned and linked in a Bleepin Jeep youtube video. Well, it didn't work. That's my life. That's how I roll...
Couldn't find diagram in SirGCa's post. So I'm working on my own.
In the meanwhile,

For 3+ years now, my son's been driving around NJ and FL in a 2006 tj Rubicon since returning from deployment in ME gulf.
In 2017 I sent him 4 Quadratec brand 4" Round LEDs and 2 sets of 3" cube LEDs. The '06 Rubi has a OE bumper with OE Fog Lights.
Soon he is deploying again and he has decided to finally install the lights (among other mods) while in NC attending PDT. What time is it? Oh, yeah, 2020!

Plan was always to put all four 4" rounds (2 each spot/flood) on bumper. Going to stack cubes (2 each spot/flood) on a windshield (lower A pillar) mount. The stacked cubes will connect to OE fog lamp circuit, and be switched by OE fog lamp switch on steering column stalk. The rounds will connect on one each pair separate circuit switched by AM rockers. That makes eight front facing OFFROAD lights. Most US states only allow two Auxiliary lights to the front on-road. Quadratec makes opaque covers, so should be OK.

I will make the circuits harnesses over the next week. I made up some install instructions for my son. Then I thought it might help others fixing to do the same thing if I posted it here. (or be criticized by others). Maybe sum 1 can benefit from a detail or 2 in the stuff I sent to my son.

The OE holes were stepped out to accommodate the m10-1.50 bracket bolt supplied with the lights. The issue is; can't just drill two more holes and use supplied hardware to mount spots. The floods are mounted in OE fog holes. Spots will go inboard of the floods.
Instructions to my son to mount spots on bumper. Two options. Inserts or Drill/Tap. Inserts would be best. Only 4 steps and a few dollars.

To install the spots you may try drilling and tapping the bumper and tube under it.
The tube might not be thick enough for good threads.
The tube wall under the bumper is 3.65mm thick. 0.144" 9/64" I measured 9/64 on a ’97 tj
It is probably 1/8" (8/64) .125" wall tube
That will give 2.14 threads on 1.50 thread pitch bolt
You get another 1.6 threads on the 2.39mm thick bumper, that’s 3.99, or 4 threads of grip.
Between the two maybe that's enough to hold the spots. IDK
You can always do insert if tap doesn't work cuz insert needs bigger hole

The bracket bolt size is m10x1.50 according to Quadratec.
Drill for m10 x 1.50 tap is 8.5mm that's in between 21/64" and 11/32" standard drills
(Your Snap-On set says use 8.8mm drill for m10x1.5.)

The best way to install spots would be using nutsert or rivnut, for m10 x 1.50 bolt:
M10x1.50, 13.46mm Insert Diam. 17.53mm OAL, Knurled Body Open End Threaded Insert
Grip Range (mm) 0.70" - 3.80 – Stock Bumper thickness is 2.39"mm
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/08410953? Aluminum
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/08411191 Steel
Drill Size (mm) 13.50 or 17/32" standard drill

1. Drill 13.50mm or 17/32" hole in bumper and tubing.
2. Then take bumper off (you might have to step drill tube hole big enough for expanded insert)
3. With bumper off Install insert on bumper with tool. M10x1.50 Manual Threaded Insert Tool for Use with A-K, A-L, A-H & A-O
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/09331711
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Og-tHIR_0I
See if bumper with inserts attached will go back on without stepping out the tube hole. Might be enough clearance, might not. The inserts should only expand right under bumper. There is a smidge of clearance between tube and bumper. Step out the tube holes as necessary.
4. Install bumper

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rubi_circa _2017.jpg  

Last edited by yelirekim; 02-06-2020 at 04:56 AM. Reason: fix
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post #2 of 11 Old 02-06-2020, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
yelirekim
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OFFROAD Lights -- eIgHt FrOnT fAcInG LEDs

Four lights on '06 tj OE front bumper.
I sent specs to measure for new light holes.
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jf_Instructions_ lights _page1.jpg   jf_Instructions_ lights _page2.jpg  
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post #3 of 11 Old 02-06-2020, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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This is In progress

This is the diagram I am making cuz i cudn't find SergCa's.
Drawing it up, helped figure a part's purchase list.
This is in progress - not complete
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Last edited by yelirekim; 02-06-2020 at 04:53 AM.
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-11-2020, 07:24 AM
chris87xj
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I moved this thread to the forum electrical section that SirGal took care of while he had his health. Since his passing, his website that hosted his pictures has shut down. Unfortunate that we didn't have the foresight to preserve them before they were lost. The good news is that there's still a lot of old knowledge around here with the ability to walk through just about any jeep wiring needs.
Good looking jeep there, good luck in your quest.

***Chris***

"You can set my jeep on fire and roll it down a hill,
But I still wouldn't trade it for a Coupe DeVille."


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post #5 of 11 Old 02-11-2020, 09:18 AM
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I'm guessing the extra relay is going to be triggered from an accessory terminal to energize the feeds when the key is on. The yellow text I couldn't read.

The wiring looks good.

My only suggestion is to have one set of lights (probably the floods) be hot when the Jeep is off. It's a risk that they might be left on but it also provides the ability to light up an area with the Jeep off (like setting up camp at night)

06 KJ
12 JK, 2.5" Teraflex lift, Bilstein 5100's, BFG KM3's 37x12.5/R17
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-12-2020, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
yelirekim
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Good point cranbiz. The yellow text says "Fuse Tap IGN". I have not started making the harness yet. Should be able to switch ignition key to Accessory, and have all lights on without engine running. I don't have the jeep now but I hardwired CB, camera, monitor, a radar detector, USB mini and Garmin nav about two years ago. I used The two spare fuse slots #19 (20amp) and #20 (10amp) One is battery and one is ignition switched, if I'm remembering right. I did the wiring one morning in a rush while my son was here and leaving to hit the road. I used three or four 12 Volt Dual Outlet Adapters. Cut the wires and hard wired the female sockets to fuse slots 19 and 20 with "Add a Circuit"s I found with 14 or 12AWG wire. I did it this way so I could use male plugs that had glass fuses built-in and fused with 1, 2, and/or 3 amp fuses depending on the accessory. I taped up the adapters and wrapped foam around them and stuffed up in the dash behind the glove box. I took a self tapping probably #10 screw and drilled into the metal under the defroster panel and ran a 10 or 12 AWG from it and connected all the grounds. It's a real spaghetti mess but it has held up ever since with no blown fuses. Kid says he has to squeeze the adapter to the CB occasionally because it loses connection.

This extra fuse box will clean that mess up nice. The biggest fuse in it will probably be 3 amp. I will take some photos when I do the harness and fuse box before I send it to my son. This is a photo of the spaghetti mess I asked my kid to send me, to remind me of the mess that will get cleaned up finally.

If I remember correctly the right (passenger) side contact in the fuse slot on 19 and 20 is the hot side. If not I wired it wrong. I know once I was thinking about flipping an "Add a Circuit" because of a clearance issue but realized if I did flip it, the circuit that was just added would not be fused, so I hope the right side contact is the hot. I think I would have checked but, I mostly remember rushing to get it done so my kid could hit the road without a spaghetti mess by the console and gear lever. And it has held up for over 2 years. Also I always/usually crimp a little and solder a lot. It surprised me to see no solder on the ground terminal. Now I'm thinking I just twisted and taped all connections. For the harness I'm fixin-2-do I purchased a $65 crimper and am using non-insulated terminals with 3:1 heat shrink tubing with adhesive sealant. Going to give just crimping a try. No solder.

I've had no troubles all the way back to the days when I used to just twist and tape. But that was the '70s and this is now. Remember kids, don't flip your "Add a Cicuit"
I Do Not Know how my Subject got changed to "new here, need advice" but what the hey.
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-12-2020, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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Tj

Now that I'm thinking that mess may be from 2016, Any way here's 3 photos:
1.) 12 Volt Dual Outlet Adapter
2.) 2006 tj with manual trans firewall hole (plugged). The hole is for Auto Trans lever cable. Nice to run wires etc. through firewall without drilling. Auto trans TJs can use clutch master cylinder plugged hole on firewall on driver's side of brake booster. Make a nice loop downward before passing anything through from engine side of firewall so any liquids, will run down the wire and drip off the bottom of the loop and not drip into the cabin.
Same photo has firewall body ground bolt which I think is an m10. Top-ish, center-ish in photo. Would need a ring terminal for a 7/16 stud to add a ground wire to it.
3.) DayStar grommet that fits Auto Trans lever cable hole. Pricey but nice to seal things up.
Attached Thumbnails
12 Volt Dual Outlet Adapter.jpg   trans_hole.jpg   Daystar_KU20040BK.jpg  
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post #8 of 11 Old 02-12-2020, 07:47 AM
chris87xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yelirekim View Post
I Do Not Know how my Subject got changed to "new here, need advice" but what the hey.
I also merged the two threads you'd started on this topic because both had different information, and the forum software by default chose to keep the title from the first thread started.
I'll update this combined thread to use the title from the second one started in hopes it'll generate the most interest.

***Chris***

"You can set my jeep on fire and roll it down a hill,
But I still wouldn't trade it for a Coupe DeVille."


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post #9 of 11 Old 02-12-2020, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
yelirekim
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Tj Need Genuine Chrysler 52087866 Spring Insulator--- Can't find them

0ne last tidbit 2day for the tj owner that wants/needs to replace or add mopar (part #52087866 discontinued) rear coil spring bottom (lower) isolator '97-06 tj &lj. The plasticky isolator with 3 tabs.

MOOG part # K160060
K160060 is ONE coil set upper and lower rear isolator. still available.
Need two times MOOG K160060 to get two plasticky lower rear coil isolators. Pricey but...
I asked Morris 4x4 if they might stock them. Morris gives 5% and free shipping to active duty no minimums.
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-12-2020, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
yelirekim
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Tj

_
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post #11 of 11 Old 02-12-2020, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
yelirekim
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TJ LJ Body and Floor Plugs from 2006 Chrysler Parts List

Plugs:Parts; List -- blow up location diagram -- part numbers -- Quantity

PLUGS 2006 WRANGLER (TJ)
ITEM PART# QTY DESCRIPTION
1 55360966AA 8 PLUG,Floor Pan
2 06004507 1 PLUG,Body,25.4mm x 38. mm
3 02424864 1 PLUG,Body,1.75 Diameter,Shift Cable Hole 4
4 55257380AD 1 PLUG
5 04373728 1 PLUG
6 55176729AA 2 PLUG
7 55177482AA 4 PLUG,Floor Pan
8 55177482AA 4 PLUG,Body,4.0mm X 76.4mm,(NOT SERVICED) 9
9 55364097AA 1 TAPE
10 01774076 2 PLUG
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File Type: pdf Plugs 2006 TJ Parts List-2.pdf (89.3 KB, 1 views)
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