Extra charging ports for usb etc - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-09-2019, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
gphil
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Talking Extra charging ports for usb etc

Hope I have selected the correct forum. I have a 98 TJ and want to add some charging ports to run the cell and any other plugin that might be needed. The cigarette lighter is not working and the fuses are all fine and that is why I thinking of just adding more. Which is the best to come from the battery to inside or just go to the fuse box. I really thinking of coming off the battery inside to a fuse block and wire from there. Yes, it will be always hot but then so are other items under there. I guess I will have to put in some type of grounding post back to the battery. So I guess I am asking if this plan sounds good. Batt to fuse terminal wire to ports etc then have the grounds to a strip which would lead back to the battery. Hard to explain and hope someone understands what I am getting at. Piggybacking the inside box seems not good to me because of using the jeeps original systems. The more you think the cloudier it seems. When I was young I just ripped out wires and went from there. lol Thanks for the patience and will be watching for responses. Gary (gphil)

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post #2 of 16 Old 06-09-2019, 05:44 PM
CJ7-Tim
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USB charging does not draw very much. Pick an unused fuse slot, or piggyback off a suitable fuse or wire circuit. If you run a positive wire from the battery, there would be no reason to run a ground back to the battery, but it also wouldn't hurt anything to do that.

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post #3 of 16 Old 06-09-2019, 09:06 PM
mukluk
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You could just fix the lighter socket.

Use a trouble light or meter to check fuse 19 to see if you're getting power through it or not: if yes, suspect a bad socket or loose ground at G200 (located just below the left dash speaker); if no, check for a bad accessory relay (located next to the fuse block) or bad PDC fuse 5. When checking the relay, verify terminal 2 of the relay socket is getting power from the ignition switch in ACC/RUN and that you have a good ground at terminal 5. Once the accessory power is working again you'll have the option of plugging chargers into the lighter socket, or you can use the extra light blue wire taped to the wire harness near the fuse block as an additional fused switched power source for an extra outlet.
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-10-2019, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
gphil
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thank you very much for the responses. I am an older senior, kid, at heart and love to tinker. This forum is going to be a value to me. One of the subject question. Is to bottom of the dash inside steel? Assuming it is for I want to put some self-tapping screws into it for the USB mount. Thanks once more and hope I did not offend by the last inquiry. gphil
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-10-2019, 11:34 AM
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The vast majority of the TJ's dash is plastic, but it does attach to some steel frame structure. See the attached picture for what the frame looks like with the dash plastic removed.
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-10-2019, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
gphil
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Thumbs up Dash Panel

By gad, could not have asked for a better answer. lol Just what I needed.
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-10-2019, 05:54 PM
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Shees rusty!
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-10-2019, 06:33 PM
jay-h
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While the advice above is correct, you might want to consider putting your own fuse/terminal block in place for other electrical components you might wish to add. Also a nice big terminal screw to attach grounds.

[BTW I'm also another senior here (almost 70)

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post #9 of 16 Old 06-10-2019, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
gphil
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Hey jay-h, Still got ya beat on the years. I have the necessary parts to do what you described. I have been chasing volts this evening and I cannot find any at the empty slot on the inside fuse block. Don't know if it is even powered. could be I am not getting the point of the probe deep enough for it to light. If I do go the route you mentioned, would you run a ground back out to the neg side of the batt? Also a ground strap to the engine. I really hate to piggyback but if the open slot is not powered then my terminal block will have to go in. Won't be switched but then so are a lot of other acc. I would like the new block inside to keep from having to run more wires through the firewall in the future. Give me your thoughts and thanks. gphil
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-11-2019, 04:14 AM
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I'd simply run a wire with an inline breaker back to the battery. You can ground to the block, but that normally makes a difference for high draw applications, not typical accessories. If you are having grounding problems, adding a ground from the block to the body should help.

Ideally you could make some connections switched and others not, use a relay connected to anywhere on the switched side to control it.

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post #11 of 16 Old 06-11-2019, 05:04 AM Thread Starter
gphil
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Relays

Not real versed in relays. How to wire into a circuit etc. understand different types also. Sounded like you are in favor of inside cabin for new junction box. Once more thanks for all the input.
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post #12 of 16 Old 06-11-2019, 07:05 PM
jay-h
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Basically you select a normally open 12 relay (many have both normally open and normally closed functionality). Connect on side of the coil (graphically illustrated on the instruction sheet) to the ground and the other to a switched power. When power is applied to the coil (very little is needed) the normally open contacts will connect (and the normally closed will disconnect).

This allows your to switch a fairly heavy current (up to the rated value of the relay) with very little load on the activating signal (coil). That way there is no danger of overloading any underdash wiring.

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post #13 of 16 Old 06-12-2019, 05:49 AM
Trootncsse
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Re: no volts at the empty slot. I had an issue on my old CJ where my heater fan, lighter port interior lights, and finally wipers had no power. It ended up being the fuse block itself. I removed it and on he backside there was a lot of corrosion where the spade terminals plugged in. Cleaned up and all was well. Things worked. Have never looked at terminal block on the TJ to see if same could occur. Just a thought. PS. Im 66 and getting under the dash is most fun. And then trying to see! Lol

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post #14 of 16 Old 06-12-2019, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
gphil
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Dash Panel

Well getting under the dash and trying to see is a real problem at my years lol. Can't get out afterward. May just take to shop down the road. I cannot get a 12 V reading on my meter even when sticking into a known operating slot. How far do you need to cram those probs in? I really like the battery cables from Custom Cables with the military terminals. Has anyone purchased them?
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post #15 of 16 Old 06-12-2019, 08:27 AM
ToddPaul
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I purchased the military cable ends from Pico and made my own cables, they are great . I would just use a separate fuse block to power your USB then you have some slots left open for further improvements, and ground out to your dash . If your ground is in question, run a strap to the dash and then you'll be fine. I am only 55, so take it for what its worth .
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