Daily Driver 5.9 build thread - bumpers, tube rockers, etc.. - Page 18 - JeepForum.com
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post #256 of 400 Old 01-15-2015, 10:16 PM
MurdaJs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
You could in theory use a wj hub but then you'd have the wrong bolt pattern.
Would it still require a spacer? If so you could switch to wj hubs later if wanted

Might be nice to have wj pattern, could get 8.8 shafts that match and throw on some jk takeoffs

Just brainstorming

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post #257 of 400 Old 01-15-2015, 10:26 PM
kg6mov
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I think it would work, might need the spacer. I'm not sure if the spacer is a function of the WJ shaft being spec'd differently or the hub itself.

You need to use wheel spacers to run JK takeoffs anyway though, the backspace on those is worse than the ZJ. At that point it would be easier to swap a whole WJ axle.

Who makes 8.8 shafts that are 5 on 5? Most ford stuff is either 5 on 5.5 or 5 on 4.5 AFAIK.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #258 of 400 Old 01-15-2015, 10:35 PM
MurdaJs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
I think it would work, might need the spacer. I'm not sure if the spacer is a function of the WJ shaft being spec'd differently or the hub itself.

You need to use wheel spacers to run JK takeoffs anyway though, the backspace on those is worse than the ZJ. At that point it would be easier to swap a whole WJ axle.

Who makes 8.8 shafts that are 5 on 5? Most ford stuff is either 5 on 5.5 or 5 on 4.5 AFAIK.
Ahh I forgot about backspacing on stock jk wheels.

Aftermarket 8.8 shafts can be drilled 5x5
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post #259 of 400 Old 01-16-2015, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
Timo_90xj
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I was actually thinking about the WJ hubs back when I did the swap. I couldn't get a WJ hub on my hands (not too many around here on junkyards, so I couldn't go pick a bad bearing for free) to do some measuring. As far as I know, WJ and ZJ stub shafts are slightly different length - as are hubs. If you use WJ hubs, you more than likely would need to run WJ stubs. I'm not 100% sure about this though.


For those that do not know, the idea with the knuckle spacer is to align the axle shaft joint with the balljoint axis when using ZJ/XJ/TJ unit bearings.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #260 of 400 Old 01-16-2015, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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I bought a set of Rough Country RC9000 shocks because they were on 50% sale, and I really needed to replace the horribly crappy RC hydro shocks that came with the BB. I simply had enough of the bone- rattling, teeth-clattering ride of those shocks

Albeit the RC9000s are not being anywhere near top-notch shocks, what a world of difference they made on the ride quality. They actually made my ZJ ride pretty well on the road - they absorb small, sharp potholes etc. very well, but sort of stiffen up on bigger humps. I'll have to see how they handle on bad dirt roads and when wheeling, but I expect them to be pretty good.


I was actually a little surprised they were that good. Considering I only payed 200 for a set of four, it's not bad. I have been thinking of buying a set of either Fox reservoir shocks, or KOR reservoir shocks, but I'm not gonna do that before summer.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #261 of 400 Old 01-16-2015, 02:07 PM
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If the WJ stub is in fact different you're hosed because AFAIK the wj never had u-joint shafts. You'd have to source aftermarket stubs and then run stock or aftermarket ZJ/XJ/TJ main shafts.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #262 of 400 Old 02-24-2015, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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We're going to have a baby soon, we needed something for protectng and transporting the baby. I managed to find a baby safety bucket + base that can be fitted using with the seatbelt, instead of the Isofix mounting (LATCH system in the USA?).

However, I was not at all satisfied with the mounting. Using seatbelt + the support leg on the base, the whole system wobbled sideways, and it felt like nothing would prevent it from falling on it's side in case of an accident. Keep in mind, this is one of the best baby buckets on the market here, and is approved for my Jeep as well.

I now understand why Isofix/ LATCH is a standard these days
Since almost all baby safety buckets and child safety seats sold here in Europe these days only feature Isofix- mounting, and my Jeep obviously doesn't have it, something needed to be done to the Jeep.



So, again it was time for some head-scratching - trying to figure out a way to incorporate the Isofix- standard mounts onto the Jeep. Since they aren't available for the ZJ from the factory, this was going to be a DIY job.

I finally figured the best way to do this was using the backrest frame for welding in the Isofix lower mounts. I also included the front-facing child seat tether mount to the backside of the seat.


So out came the seat, and I removed the upholstery/ padding. It is very easy to remove; two zippers at the lower end of the backrest. The plastic tubes for the headrest can be removed once the zippers are opened; there are locking clips on both the tubes; after you push in the locking clips, you can easily push the plastic tubes out of their support legs.






Backrest frame; it's mostly thin stamped sheetmetal, but the lower area is mostly thicker stuff. Strong enough to weld in box steel tube




I fabbed the Isofix/ LATCH mounts from 40 mm x 30mm 4mm wall (~1.6" x 1.2" .150" wall) box steel tube. I used a 6mm (~1/4") bolt as the mounting anchor bar. It was a class 10.9 bolt, so it should be strong enough. It is the same thickness as the ISO- standard Isofix child safety system mounts are.

I welded the bolts from both sides of the box steel tubes, so they aren't going anywhere. I used bolts with long shank, so that there's only round bar inside the box steel, instead of threads.




Tether mount at the backside of the seat:




I had to cut holes to the leather I will fab somesort of plates to cover the outside perimeter of the holes, so that the leather won't start to rip, and to make it more factory-look. This way it's just crappy







End result? I now have a very sturdy mounting system on the rear passenger side of the Jeep for a baby safety bucket/ child safety seat. The measurements came out very good, and the box steel tubes are deep enough inside the seat that they won't stick into your butt if an adult sits on the rear bench.

I'm happy with this modification!

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #263 of 400 Old 03-13-2015, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
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I had to do some work on my power steering pump and it's reservoir (slight leak-proofing until I get a new high-volume pump + remote reservoir).

I've had a bit of issues with the automatic belt tensioner. and now that I tried to loosen it to be able to pull the serp. belt, it wouldn't budge at all. Last time it was just a bit tight, but at least it moved. I pulled the PS pump with the belt tight.

After patching up the small leaks from the leaky seams of the OEM plastic reservoir, I started wondering on what's up with the tensioner. Although it says "Do not disassemble", I couldn't resist. It can't be that complicated


Apparently, you can disassemble it. It's just a stud with the tensioner coil cover plate pressed on to the stud (it has splines on it). I pulled the cover open in a bench vice so that stuff wouldn't be flyind all over the garage.
Reason for the tensioner not functioning? Rust on the rotating stud, and the brass bushing was also incredibly dirty. Cleaned them up and used a cloth shining wheel on the angle grinder to smooth the stud, relubed with high quality heavy grease, put it back together - and it now works like new

Maybe not worth it across there, but the tensioners cost ~100$ (90€) here, and even shipped from Rockauto it's closer to 70€ (80$)..


This is how the internal parts look like:

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #264 of 400 Old 03-13-2015, 04:57 PM
Boover
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Awesome Jeep! I really like your way of doing things.

85' CJ7 Laredo, 258 I-6, T-176, Dana 30, AMC 20
99' WJ Laredo 4.0L NP242, RC Long Arm, 44a vari lok
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post #265 of 400 Old 03-13-2015, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
Timo_90xj
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Thanks! I always try doing my best, but not always succeeding in it


As far as build goes, I should soon be getting my 4wd back when I get the new front axle CA akd trackbar mounts cut and welded, and other stuff fully rebuilt (new locker, gears, balljoints, TREs, etc..) - and a cable shifter from Novak
Can't wait to get back to the trails, this has been a long overdue project with front axle

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #266 of 400 Old 03-16-2015, 12:27 PM
Geo-Nemesis
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great job, I just disagree with the lubrication of the belt tensioner. i will trap a lot of dust and debris. if it has a brass bushing it should stay dry imho.

'02 Black Overland H.O. V8
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post #267 of 400 Old 03-17-2015, 03:49 AM Thread Starter
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo-Nemesis View Post
great job, I just disagree with the lubrication of the belt tensioner. i will trap a lot of dust and debris. if it has a brass bushing it should stay dry imho.
Thanks As for the belt tension.. well.. it should stay dry and clean with the brass bushing and plastic dust seals But in reality, it had ingested a mixture of road salt + water from the winter roads, causing heavy surface rust on the stud, which in turn lead to stud being solidly seized onto the bushing.

This is just a temporary fix, until I place an order on Rockauto along with some other stuff I need. So, for the time being this is way better than a frozen adjuster


I just placed my order on Metalcloak website for some Duroflex fun I ordered small weld- on bushing housings for the front uppers at the axle end, and four large adjustable bushings for front & rear lowers to replace the traditional flex joints. For now, I'll keep the uppers with traditional flex joints, and the lowers stay with the rubber in end, Duroflex in other. I may fix that later and fab new uppers & lowers at custom length with Duroflex joints being at both ends. For now, I just want to know how they actually perform compared to traditional flex joints.

I also ordered the 242 Cable shifter from Novak- Adapt, but seems like they've run out of them. Last time I checked, they were available as immediate shipping, now they weren't. I hope they get a new batch very soon.


I should get my second HP D30 front axle rebuild done within a month. Baby is coming out very soon (most likely today ), so that may slightly slow down the build - I will be paying a shop to do the ball joints (Alloy USA WJ/JK heavy duty balljoints) and locker (Eaton eLocker) + R&P setup. I hope I'm back on the trails by early May, finally after well over a year..



..oh, these should arrive in 16" x 8" size late this summer. My local distributor had just ordered a container full of American Racing wheels, I placed my order two days late for these to make it into that shipment. I guess late-July early August is good enough


1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #268 of 400 Old 04-09-2015, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Some goodies for the front axle build

Metalcloak upper weld-on bushing sleeves + Duroflex bushings, and two LCA Durflex joints. The extra set of weld- on bushing go into my rear UCA build, once I get some other stuff as well.

I noticed Metalcloak these days is selling LCA joints on both right hand and left hand thread, so I'm probably going to buy a full set of joints and building all new LCAs front & rear using all Duroflex joints -> no need to unbolt LCAs for CA length adjustments

My Novak Conversions cable shifter has arrived, but is waiting for customs clearance before I get it. That is hopefully next week.


1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #269 of 400 Old 04-09-2015, 05:45 PM
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love your jeep man! especially the fenders!
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post #270 of 400 Old 04-12-2015, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!



Now that I got my upper control arm bushings and sleeves, I could start finishing the CA brakcets. LCA brackets are made of 80mm x 120mm x 5mm wall box steel, cut & drilled to shape. Inside width doesn't exactly match the LCA bushing width. 80mm box steel on 5mm wall = 70mm inside width -> that's 2.76" in US measurements; bushings are 2.63" wide. Thankfully metric 14mm hole washers are exactly the right thickness, so I welded one washer inside each mount which made them perfect width.


These are high clearance mounts, in other words I raised them considerably higher than OEM mounts. Bottom of LCA mount is now only about 1/2" lower than bottom of axle tube. I couldn't raise 'em higher, because I would've run into issues with shock mounts and coil buckets..
Having mounts way higher gives me better clearance on the trails, and on the other hand raising the LCA mounts 2.5" higher gives me perfectly level CA angle - same as stock



Raising the LCA mounts meant I needed to raise the upper mounts just as much, so that I don't mess up the 4-link geometry. Having added the truss, it wasn't a big deal because the UCA bushing towers aren't any higher than OEM. They're made of 2" x 1.25" x 3/16" wall box steel. Bushing sleeves are 2 1/4" OD x .250" wall DOM.

Missing are trackbar mount, swaybar endlink mounts and shock mounts.. hopefully will be done next week




1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...


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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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