2003 Limited - Planet Express Build Thread - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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post #61 of 99 Old 11-11-2018, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Well. It's been a while since my last update, not much to squawk about since I've been busy running the new business and rebuilding my cabin since moving back to the mountains of CA.

I had a Groupon expire the other day so I figured why not put the credit towards a Cb radio to go along with the new firestik antenna. So I ordered up the Cobra 75 WX ST to save space in the jeep.

Now, to decide whether to wire it up to the existing stereo with some sort of way to interrupt current playing music or simply grab another speaker to be a primary for it as I hear the volume can be a bit lower on these units.

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post #62 of 99 Old 11-22-2018, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I managed to get the CB in today, not sure if it was the cold weather or just poor thinking but I have a feeling I'm thing to be annoyed with the placement of the unit fairly quick.

Holding out on sales for black Friday and cyber Monday, may pick up the room for my awning or the rear long arm kit of either go on sale for the holidays.

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post #63 of 99 Old 11-23-2018, 01:29 PM
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Go to the WJ section, I put a suggestion there for you.

"If we can really understand the problem, the answer will come out of it, because the answer is not separate from the problem"
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post #64 of 99 Old 12-28-2018, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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OK... So... Updates... It's been a while;

The bro got me a pair of 2x2 Cali Raised pods. First impressions are really good in regards to quality, cable assembly and light output. I've read really good things about them over on Tacoma world. Looking into custom brackets to mount them that will also support a future light bar. Guy on Facebook can cut out any design or verbiage wanted but needs a min of 5 orders to produce I guess. Waiting to hear back from him still.

Folks got me the ARB deluxe room for the awning, weather is a bit nasty lately to bother setting up but I'll get to and post pictures eventually.

Placed an order with Nick from Kolak Performance earlier this morning for the following;
-IRO Rear long arm upgrade kit
-IRO rear 4-link exhaust kit (My 3" kolak kit will be up for sale at a very reasonable price once it's off, may already be claimed but feel free to pm me if interested)
-Front bar pin eliminators

Last but not least, I misjudged the clearance of the hood when I installed the ZJ washer reservoir and it ended up putting too much pressure on it and fracturing it to the point that it's completely useless... Sob... So... I managed to pick up another yesterday, had to drill a hole for the sensor and I'm currently waiting for a small crack in the upper mounting tab to cure after resealing it with some black rtv. Hopefully it'll do the job and I can finally move away from washer reservoir issues. I managed to put some rtv on the pumps and hopefully that will keep everything from leaking. Though I wonder if others modified the wiring harness and utilized the ZJ pumps to save space since they're significantly smaller.

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post #65 of 99 Old 01-09-2019, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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UPS delivered the 4 link rear and bar pin eliminators but the exhaust is on backorder until mid month...which is fine, weather will be hindering work on the jeep since the old man has the garage so packed that hoarders will probably show up one day to do a special on him haha.

Initial thoughts;

The bar pin eliminators while not the jks version look really stout and the iro cutout logo on them looks sweet to boot.

4 link rear.... Yes... Just yes. Pure beef like the front, still kicking myself for not buying the full long arm setup initially... Which means! I'll be parting out with bits and pieces from the initial lift sometime soon if anyone is interested in picking them up for a fair price and covering the shipping.

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post #66 of 99 Old 01-17-2019, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Exhaust kit showed up the other day to finish up the needed parts for the 4-link but the weather will most likely continue to put off the latest upgrades for some time until it's nicer and dry outside.

Still haven't put the bar pin eliminators on, I need a new lynch pin for one of the disconnects in the front so I may just tackle those at the same time and throw a basic hitch pin in it for now to keep it in place.

Finally got around to getting some D-Ring shackles and isolators to keep em quiet for the front bumper after I had to borrow some to pull my old man out during the last storm.

Also got a winch coming, nothing fancy, opted for the Smittybuilt 97495 XRC 9500lb model, figured it was a reasonable entry level winch that wouldn't break the bank. I was looking at the LP series from Superwinch but the specs seemed better on the Smittybuilt. However, the reviews are really mixed so I feel like I'm taking a chance here. One day I'll own a fancy Warn...when I can drop 1k+ on a winch haha.

Still looking for ditch light brackets, can't seem to get any contact from the guy that makes the custom ones but still trying. May buy a set of A-pillar mounts from a fellow dubber to get them on for now and look back into the custom ones once I splurge on a light bar. (and yes...I got my winch before my light bar and also before I've mounted my light pods...function first!)

So many projects and so little time lately

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post #67 of 99 Old 12-12-2019, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Ok wow...so it's been a while. Mostly because I've had issues with the site loading in regards to my ISP over the last year or so of living back in rural CA.

With that being said I'll just go ahead and say that my choice of platform has somewhat moved to Instagram since then but I hope to get back in biz here as well for more detailed write ups. If you wanna follow the dub on the gram and show some love the account is PlanetExpressWJ I gotta admit, I've definitely met some great folks through the gram that have led to fun trail days as well as meetups. I've also re-found a few of you on the gram as well!

Anywho, let's see if I can tackle most, if not all, of the updates and upgrades that have happened since July of last year;

SUSPENSION


XeroFab Front and Rear Coil Spring Stabilizers are now on;
Initially I bolted them on but what was remaining of the factory mounting bolt holes in the front didn't hold up for long and I managed to snap one of the bolts off on the rear when removing the factory upper bump stop. So, needless to say I ended up burning them in. They look sexy in the wheel wells also

Overall impressions, AWESOME, love em, would buy again and recommend to others in a heartbeat. I haven't dropped a spring since and have yet to fully max them out naturally on the trail. Noise is pretty low, they have a little rattle as there's no isolation or rubber on the sliding collar that sits between the Eibach (Yes, Xerofab uses Eibach springs) springs and your WJ springs. Oh, this also raised the overall lift from 6.5" to ~8.25" in the front and ~8.5" in the back.

Cons; as I mentioned the mounting had some issues with the coil stabilizers, burning them in was also fun dealing with the thinner metal, er what was left of it.
IRO Rock-Link Rear Long Arm kit is in;
Overall impressions are great again, I immediately noticed the difference in mobility and articulation in comparison to running the factory A-Arm with a spacer. Absolute JUNK. I just wish I could find an easy way to do a rear sway bar disconnect. Will be looking into a universal Currie antirock once the tank tuck is done.

Cons; None
Johnny Joint For Axle side upper link
Picked one of these up from a fellow jeeper on the cheap. Haven't put it in yet, will probably wait for summer or the axle build but I liked the idea of having a greasable 3rd link up front on the axle.
Bar Pin Eliminator from IRO;
While trying to hunt down a rattle I had wrongly assumed was my front shocks I made the decision to purchase these, they add some benifit as well like additional down travel and help to reduce shock twist. They also look pretty sweet with the IRO laser cut out. Oh, and my rattle that I've been chasing for over a year as a flex joint that, I'll be the first to admit, I think I neglected to properly torque during the initial install, all good after a little service and love last weekend now!
STEERING

WJ Ultimate Steering System (Steering and OTA Track Bar) from Trail Forged is almost complete;
I ended up ordering the rear bumper with tire carrier right when it was announced from TF and while I was at the shop I already knew at some point I would upgrade my steering components so while chatting with Greg he talked me into the TF setup. It was a very easy sell.

Initial impressions are great, I went with the HD heim option over the TRE as I can always taper out the holes for 1ton TREs if I want but Greg mentioned there's a couple WJ's out there wth 30k and 60k+ on the first heim sets still. These parts are BEEF, those of you that have the kit already know this though.

You'll probably have to move any sway bar disconnects to the inside of the mounting brackets if you run this as the clearances are once again, tight like a tiger.

Cons; Since my welding is still in it's novice stages I opted to not burn on the track bar bracket myself and wait until I can find someone/shop that will at a reasonable price or wait until my skillset gets better. As a result of not running the track bar from TF I ended up having the run both the Tie Rod and the Drag Link UTK. I did try to run the drag link OTK but death wobble ensued immediately and not in a minor way. Once I get the bracket in place I'll be changing that out. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I'll do this on the current axle (I still think it's slightly bent), buy another varilok front and build up then do a hot swap or continue to hold out for the elusive deal on some d44s.
WJ Dual (Auxiliary)Steering Stabilizer Kit;
This went on and got removed almost immediately. While the results were good as far as dampening the steering in relation to the stock unit I smashed, the bracket requires you to mount it on the body side of the track bar, which the bolt kept backing out and/or nut coming lose. I tried to salvage the kit by using the hardware in a different orientation, changing the hardware out for new, using a crap ton of red loctitie and it continued to back out about every other day. You could feel it by the end of day 1. I DO NOT recommend this product. PSA...I ended up moving it back to the stock location for the time being and already smashed it again
ARMOR

WJ Rear Bumper & Tire Carrier w/side wings from TF is on;
I absolutely love this bumper, the clearance gains are insane, material as all TF products is beef, tucked away insert is sweet and the side wings compliment the body lines well.

Cons;
1.TF lists this as a "bolt on" product while it's most certainly not and they do list all the actions required on the product page but the term bolt on is misleading if you ask me. It requires a decent amount of cutting, trimming and welding on the factory body panels, d-pillars and you practically gut the rear end of anything that may have resembled a WJ bumper and beyond.

2. It doesn't appear to have any easy method of locking the tire carrier shut, at least not that I've been able to figure out.

3. You have to relocate your EVAP, while I've done this by breaking up the components I've created both a small and large evap leak that I'm having difficulty tracking down to pass smog since she's still the daily.

4. I'm pretty sure this one is just a slight production error but the grease fitting for the tire carrier spindle is your basic zerk fitting and it hits the bumper when closed. It's scraped off all my raptor liner and puts stress on the fitting. If it was clocked slightly more in either direction this would't have been an issue. I'll be changing it out to a needle fitting eventually so it clears.

5. The storage compartments on the bumper are pretty cool but probably should have been thought out better, they're not entirely water tight, which isn't my gripe but the thumbscrews that hold them in place are a weak point IMO. One already broke and I have to extract the remainder of it. They covers are also very difficult to get out, more often than not I find myself prying them out with something. Even the slightest extension for grip would have helped here but clearances are also somewhat tight between the top of the bumper and the tire carrier.

Afterthoughts; it would have been nice if it had some wire routing in the tire carrier for accessories; cameras, license plate light, etc.
WJ Front Control Arm Skids from TF
Picked a set of these up with one of my TF orders, possibly wait on the decision to build current axle or replace with another before I burn these on but looking at my front LCA mounts on the axle side they could probably use them sooner than later.
ELECTRICAL & LIGHTING

Spyder Black LED Tail Lights;
Not too much to say about these as it's a beauty upgrade. I had been on the hunt for some tails that complimented the front DRL headlights I got from Spyder back in the day and when these came about I jumped on them. Install is just about as easy as filling up your ride with gas.
2X2 20W OSRAM LED POD from Cali Raised;
Finally got around to mounting these. While most folks refer to these as ditch lights due to the standard usage, I have them aimed outwards and up a little so I can watch the embankments on the sides of the country roads at night. Would like to wire these into my high beams eventually, along with a manual override switch to use independently as they currently are.

Cons; I've had them on for about a year now and the paint seems to have faded a bit on them.
52" CURVED 5D DUAL ROW 5D OPTIC OSRAM LED BAR from Cali Raised LED;
After the bro got me the pods I really wanted to mount them up on the hood near the windshield so I ordered the custom brackets ya'll have been seeing around from MJ1 designs and decided a light bar would be in the works or it would look off being empty. The bar is awesome, light for days, solid price and great quality. They also have awesome customer service.

Cons; MASSIVE hood glare, no matter where I angle it. Hopefully the monstaliner will reduce some glare or I'm gonna rethink this whole setup in the future. Basically I only tend to use the bar if I'm parked as it's just too much glare to drive safely on most occasions. Unlike the pods from Cali Raised the paint appears to be holding up on the bar though.
EliteXS F1 2pcs 5.6" Cree LED by MIC Tuning;

I'll admit I'm one of the first to bash on companies like Mic Tuning for their re-branding of cheap Chinese products but I managed to hit a deer head on several months back and the only damage was a busted fog light so I needed replacements. I wanted something that looked a bit unique and had good specs. This claims to have CREE LEDs in it, which are amongst one of the top LED manufacturers out there to date. I also ordered the version with the red and ended up going back and forth with the company for a few weeks on stocking issues that came out of nowhere and they forced the black versions on me without approval and provided me with a switch for "consideration". Absolutely loathe their customer service, or lack there of.

Overall though the lights are great, wish they were amber in color instead of the 65k they appear to be. Just not so great for actual fog. I was worried that they might be too bright or wide of a beam angle for oncoming traffic but so far so good!

NATIKA Backup Camera;

Picked this up on the ol amazon for cheap since my head unit accepts a camera input I figured why not. Still playing around with mounting location but for the price it's a pretty decent camera. Night vision is reasonable, metal enclosure, built in options for mounting position, lines, etc.

RECOVERY

Smittybilt GEN2 XRC 9500lb Winch;
While this winch was on the more affordable side I've actually had the opportunity to use it a few times to date. Mostly because the old man thinks his Taco can barrel through deep snow drifts. No self recovery yet.
Recovery Snatch Block from Rhino USA;
While I haven't had the chance to use this yet, last year's winter recovery made it clear that it would be an added benefit during the snow pulls. I also used a lot of pulleys this summer for work and camping, figured this could double as recovery or a pulley for setting up lines to hang things on while camping. I have a lot of their products to date and they're all pretty good when it boils down.
RANDOM OTHER THINGS

ARB 2000 Awning with Deluxe Room;
So this was hands down one of my best purchases and gifts to date that I've put to use outside of the suspension and driveline on the jeep. This tent saw 3 major excursions this summer, adding up to around ~5700mi in total, a couple 300-500mi multi day overlanding trips with my buds who have one on their 4 runner as well as a week long music festival. I've made a few minor mods for it like LED lighting and power extensions from inside the Jeep but I can't say enough how much I love this thing!

Cons; The support tubes can bend fairly easy, not mine, but my friends managed to bend one of theirs on a trip and now need to replace it. Still works but it won't collapse fully anymore. Also, I'm sure it varies by vehicle and roof rack system type but the ARB brackets for it don't clear the roof rack rails enough to push the awning out far enough so that it's not bunched up against the Jeep. I had some aluminum scrap laying around so I made 3 spacers to raise the brackets up about 3/8"
Trash-A-Roo
Pretty self explanatory but after all the expeditions the Jeep and I saw this last year it felt like a well made decision to grab one of these.
Cabin Air Filter
Popped one of these in, not much feedback yet, gonna see how it fares through winter.

Cons; Housing is one of the cheapest made products I've purchased willingly to date. Not happy with that at all. Seen that others have actually duct taped the housing together to deal with the cheap clip mechanism.
Additional Roof Cross Bars;
I needed one more, for a total of 3, to make me feel comfortable with the ARB 2000 Series Awning, local yard sold me 2 for $40 and I got to sort through them to pick out the nicest ones.
UPCOMING & STILL PENDING

-Clayton front and rear extended brake lines
-IRO 4-Link exhaust still needs to get put on (Currently deleted the main cat and replaced it with a Moroso spiral muffler and a turndown just past the IRO skid plate.
-Drivers side manifold, gasket and bolts
-KSuspensions Ultimate Power Kit
-kSuspensions 12hole fuel injectors
-SB Fabrications full port and polished throttle body

I also managed to pickup (2) more 242HDs on the cheap along with rebuild kits. Undecided if I'll sell both or keep one. Currently thinking about picking up another haha.

Well that's about as much as I can recall for the current moment and here's a couple pics of how she sits currently (Sorry if they're data killers, tried to resize to a smaller file size);
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20191207_173131_112.jpg   IMG_20191206_084437_619.jpg   IMG_20191203_082900_851.jpg   IMG_20191129_094824_295.jpg   IMG_20191127_073318_740.jpg  

IMG_20190929_110406_110.jpg   IMG_20190828_194515.161-01.jpg   IMG_20190806_173033.399-01.jpg  

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post #68 of 99 Old 12-12-2019, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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I almost forgot! Here's a clip from one of the runs I was invited to tag along with by a jeeper I met on the gram. They're a pretty fun group of dudes from Beale Air Force but goes to show our minivans can hang with the wranglers on 35s no problem!

My best/favorite part in the clip is song the 6:30 mark when I'm in the squeeze.


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post #69 of 99 Old 02-06-2020, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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SB Fabrications Throttle Body Upgrade

Managed to get a few things done on the dub over the last few weeks gonna update each one as a separate post as it's easier to link back to without clutter;

SB Fabrications Ported & Polished Throttle Body
  • Have had it in for a couple weeks now
  • Gotta hit him up on Instragram under "landsoflilannsgarage" for now, eventually he'll have a website up sometime in the near future and also does custom headers/exhaust.
  • Opens up the TB to a true 68mm through and through, basically eliminates the stepdown that's in the factory TB
  • Cost is about $200, you'll get $50 back if you send him your TB as a core either before or after the fact, and if you want it polished he's charging an extra $50
  • Impressions, looks gorgeous, maybe a slight bump in throttle response but honestly hard to tell.
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post #70 of 99 Old 02-06-2020, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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EBC Green Stuff 6000 Series Pads

It became apparent that my rear brake pads needed to be refreshed, I had been waiting for this moment as I really wanted to try out the EBC Green Stuff 6000 Series Brake Pads.

I'm not gonna get into the install of them as it's an every day item but I will give my feedback;

Pros;
  • Quiet
  • Very smooth braking
  • Appear to be holding up very well for a few thousand miles on 33s and a few hundred 35's so far.
  • Look sharp having some green peepin out at ya through the wheel spokes
Cons;
  • I wish my fronts needed to be replaced at the same time but they still had plenty of life, will change the fronts out to EBC Green Stuff later as I have them on hand waiting.
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post #71 of 99 Old 02-06-2020, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Iron Rock Offroad Alignment Tool

After brakes and various other modifications I was well overdue for an alignment but felt that I was ripped off by Les Schwab on the previous alignment as they claimed they could do a 4 wheel alignment on my rig, knowing what it looks like (small town) but after dropping it off and picking it up they claimed that they could only do a toe adjustment and wouldn't touch the arms. I just didn't feel like doing the adjustments myself at that time.

Given the previous information I had some extra cash laying around and opted to buy the IRO alignment tool, yea I know...I could have just used some angle iron...but I didn't.

Overall impressions are good, easy to mount (Although you either have to center them in the oval holes), easy to use. The groves for the tape measure were a plus vs just grabbing some angle iron or 1x4.

Cons; The one con I have with them is the metal is aluminum and I feel that the mounting area will take a beating over time, possibly allowing the measurement to be off. I say this because you need to snug them on so they don't move back and forth on the slot given they're a universal tool.

After toying around and playing with them I was able to get the toe between 1/32" and 1/16", which is just about the factory spec. Shakedown tests afterwards showed good results and I'm not running a steering stabilizer at the current moment.

Would I tell you to buy them, eh maybe, maybe not. For me, the only gig in town is Schwabby and I like the ability to adjust myself with a tool that's been machined to perfection.
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post #72 of 99 Old 02-06-2020, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Pressure Sending Unit

So most of what I've been working on lately is more along the lines of maintenance as you can tell;

For the longest time now I've had an oil leak that I was sure had to be the threads on the oil filter or the filter mount from the kids that started working at the shop I usually had my oil changed at. My hunch was this because the oil would ever so slowly drip down to the filter bottom, then unto the drag link and make it's way towards the passenger knuckle over time. Time after time I wiped this down and kept an eye out for the source but just couldn't see it.

Low and behold, a few weeks ago my oil pressure gauge started going whacko on me...turns out the OPS was the cause of the oil leak. Can't remember which one I bought but I picked it up at the local Napa Auto Parts store and slapped it in. Gauge immediately started "functioning" again (Dummy gauge in mine) and haven't had a drop of oil show up since. Not bad though for an original sensor that lasted about 200K

One thing to note, I did this during an oil change and getting to the sensor was rather easy with such conditions. I would judge this to be a PITA if the filter was still in place.
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post #73 of 99 Old 02-06-2020, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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EVAP Codes & Smoke Machine

One of the more recent and time consuming repairs I managed to address lately was my EVAP Codes; PO442 & PO445 for a small and large evap leak.

This all started when I installed the rear Tail Forged bumper, NOTHING BAD TOWARDS TF, as I had removed the EVAP setup under the rear bumper entirely and ran it open for a few months. Doing this, as far as I have been able to determine, degraded several of the lines that were probably already in bad shape for 200K but also a couple of the sensors and parts in the system.

My challenge was that time was running out to renew my registration in NV and I had recently moved to CA, whom would fail me for having EVAP codes and a CEL on smog.

At first I took my old EVAP setup and split everything up, lengthened the lines and tucked it in various locations under the jeep. Which I think would have been fine had I done that originally instead of waiting.

I ended up replacing the following items; Gas Cap, Purge Solenoid Valve and a few of the rubber lines with fuel line from Napa.

Some things I learned along the way;
  • Gas Cap; Should be holding a vacuum. You can remove it and try to suck air through the backside that faces the fuel neck. If any air passes though, REPLACE IT.
  • Purge Solenoid; When de-energized should hold a vacuum. You can test this by again trying to suck, or blow, air through either of the tubes that come off of it. If it leaks, REPLACE IT. I tried taking mine apart and cleaning it and it only held a seal for about 20-30min before failing again.
After I replaced these items I decided it was worthwhile to build a smoke machine out of some parts I had laying around to ensure everything was good before resetting my ECU and going about the readiness checks again.

Smoke Machine Build;
Components needed;
Mason Jar (I chose the jar over the paint can as you can see inside it when it's in use vs the paint can method)
Soldering Wand
RTV/Hot Glue
O-Rings (just added insurance for seals as the mason jar lids are thin)
Valve Stem (I used a valve stem so I could pressurize the system using a bike pump to keep the PSI low)
Air Tool Fitting (So I could attach the clear hose for the output)
Red Rag (For a wick)
Mineral Oil (Smokes real good!)
Copper or Bailing Wire

Build;
Drill 3 holes in the mason jar lid for the valve stem, air fitting and soldering iron while keeping the tolerances as tight as possible.
Install items to lid
Seal it up with the RTV and/or hot glue (Make sure to let it dry, I didn't and ended up rebuilding the unit a second time because of this)
Attach your wick to the soldering wand using the wire
Fill the jar about and inch or so with mineral oil (Enough that it soaks it up to the top of the rag where it's attached to the iron, you may need more or less depending on the size of your jar)
Close it up and plug it in, it will take a few minutes for the smoke to build up to a decent level where you want to start pumping into the system.
SEAL UP YOUR THROTTLE BODY (You'll lose large amounts of smoke here if you don't and render the test useless)
The bike pump works great as you don't want to put more than 2psi into the system and it's helpful if you have 2 bodies for this portion.

After all of this I still played the readiness check game by keeping my tank at certain levels as to avoid having the EVAP portion clear until last. Just in case as in CA you can only have 1 of the 7 readiness checks incomplete to pass, but only if the CEL is not on at the same time. Lucky for me I was on a long drive, the tank dropped below the threshold I was trying to keep it at and it cleared all 7 tests.


Still need to go back this summer and take another look at breaking it up and relocating it all though.
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post #74 of 99 Old 02-06-2020, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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242HD Transfer Case Rebuilds

A ways back I picked up 2 more 242HD cases from a local yard on the cheap. Once again they had no idea what they had, their loss was my gain.

I bought them with the intention of selling 1, maybe both, but also liked the idea of having a backup in the case that I grenade mine. Good ol trusty Nick with Kolak hooked it up with the rebuild kits as usual. Though one thing I've noticed to date is neither Novak or Crown rebuild kits come with the 2 bigger bearings you need for the HD case, they come with one big bearing and one smaller bearing that's used on the standard duty output shaft. So picked up 2 more larger bearings while in Reno.

Still unsure if I'll rebuild the 247 that I pulled out of my jeep or not. Don't plan on ever using it again but to the right person I guess I could make some money back on it. Time will tell.

Anyways, here's the pictures of the cases at start and tear down, I'm starting to enjoy rebuilding these actually!
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post #75 of 99 Old 02-06-2020, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Some fun stuff!

Let's get into the exciting new stuff next;

I'm not gonna get into how or why I justified the move from 33s to 35s but let's just say it happened.

I opted to go with the Milestar Patagonia M/Ts as several other grands that actually wheel them gave me great feedback, some claiming mileage up to 40k with good life left still.

Feeback on the Patagonias;
  • Size; 315/70R17
  • Cost; about $1060 to my door from SimpleTire for all 5! Can't beat that price, though I was looking at the Pitbull Rockers in the same size for about $100 more, though honestly for my rig the Patagonias were a much better choice.
  • Look meaty
  • So far have done better than the KO2s in mud and performed much better in the snow than I had imagined they would. Still need to get some serious trail riding on them though.
  • Quiet, I honestly cant believe how quiet they are
  • Smooth riding, very smooth aside from some slight bumper steer I have that I'll blame on not running a steering stabilizer at the moment.
  • Balancing; The shop said they were the best set of 35s they've balanced in a long time! That was great to hear!
The stock wheel and spydertrax spacers wouldn't cut it anymore to fit anything wider than an 11.5 tire and I didn't want to go back and get another set of spacers as my chrome rogues are peeling and need a lot of TLC. SO...I decided to go with Dirty Life Dual-Tek 9303 DT-1 in Gunmetal.

Feedback on Dirty Life Wheels;
  • Specs; 17x9, 4.5" Backspacing and a -12mm Offset
  • Cool Feature Alert; these wheels double as a standard DOT mount or for about $100 per wheel you can get the forged beadlock rings to make them a true beadlock. It was either these or the Hutchinson Rock Monsters, which are awesome DOT beadlocks but I couldn't get myself to justify the cost on the Hutchinson wheels at the time.
  • Cost; Let's not get too far into this, you can look yourself but I'll just say I got into it with the vendor because of some shady stuff they tried pulling on me and in the end I bought 4 right around the original introductory price and the 5th free. Another reason why I didn't go with the Hutchinson wheels.
  • Looks; Killer
  • Simulated mount; you can see in some of the pictures below where rocks, dirt, mud or ice will eventually build up but so far not really a problem.
  • Lug holes are a bit small for my liking and can easily get scratched up if you use an impact socket. Gonna change the lugs out for splines or some other security type.
Fender Trimming;
After mounting up the 35s on the Jeep it was apparent that trimming would be inevitable, I knew this day would come but it was nice keeping the fenders in stock as much as possible. I looked around at multiple threads, sites and chatted with a few WJ owners before I went about it. Ended up using 3/4" wide tape and following the top buldge of the fender while cutting on the opposing/lower side of the tape as you can see in the pictures using a cutoff wheel. After which I hit them with a 60 grit flap disc to smooth out some of the lines on the curved portions and clean up the metal. Afterwards I added some Trim-Lock brand 1/16" edge guard with a 3/8" coverage, I wanted it to look as minimal as possible. Quality of the edge guard is really nice compared to what the local parts stores had on hand.
Still gotta address the pinch welds and clean a few things up as well as adjust the control arms for both the front and rear but at the current moment it's riding great and has no rub at all.
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