Shift linkage or transmission? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 10-16-2018, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
Rtarr23
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So last week I was driving my 2001 Jeep Cherokee and it started sputtering a little and then my RPMs went all the way up but my speed wasn’t going up and then I tried to replace the spark plugs because I had 4 cylinders misfiring so I figured it was that and when I changed that it sounded like it was fine, sounded perfect again but it wouldn’t shift into gears. I could shift it but it wouldn’t shift itself. Could it be the shift linkage or is it possible that the whole transmission is shot? It’s an automatic too which makes it a little complicated.. someone helpp! Lol

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post #2 of 6 Old 10-16-2018, 05:03 PM
CJ7-Tim
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More details are required.

Is or was the Check Engine Light ON ? What Check Engine Light trouble codes are or were present.

What size engine ? 2wd or 4x4 ?

What diagnostic testing and troubleshooting have you performed ?

Are you saying that the transmission shifts pretty much correctly when you put it into 1-2, then 3, then OD, but it won't shift normally when you put it straight into OD as usual ?

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post #3 of 6 Old 10-16-2018, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry! It’s a 4wd 4x4 6.0L engine and the check engine light is on when I got it scanned they said my cylinders were misfiring so I replaced all the spark plugs but no it won’t shift into any gear I’m not sure what the problem is I haven’t ran a diagnostic test on it yet because I haven’t gotten paid to take it up to the shop was just trying to fix the problem on my own. But I was going to replace the shift linkage but if that’s not the problem then I might as well not. When I tried to run it it wanted to go like it would shift into drive and would go backwards and then after a minute or 2 it would go forward. But I honestly have no idea. I only got this thing last month and the previous owner rebuilt it to be a 4wheeling machine..
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post #4 of 6 Old 10-17-2018, 04:06 AM
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Trans fluid level? Fluid color and smell? Red and clean or brown and burnt smelling?

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #5 of 6 Old 10-17-2018, 04:42 AM Thread Starter
Rtarr23
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The fluid levels are fine and it’s clean everyone thinks is the transmission but I’m so lost. I think my best bet is to just take it to a shop 😩
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post #6 of 6 Old 10-17-2018, 05:43 AM
CJ7-Tim
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Use the Google and locate the AW-4 Transmission Service Manual. You will find complete diagnostics and testing info.

Since you mentioned sputtering and RPM variations, you should test the Throttle Position Sensor and inspect it wire plug and wire harness.


TPS failure may have one or more of these Physical Symptoms:

1) The engine loses power and is stalling.

2) The engine will idle, but may die as soon as you press the gas pedal. When driving, it seems as if all power is gone.

3) Sometimes it feels as if the transmission is failed or isn't shifting properly, if at all. If you quickly jump on the gas you might be able to get the transmission to shift, but it won’t shift properly by itself. Shifting manually, the transmission goes through all the gears.

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics. The TPS function should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected.

TPS TEST

The TPS is mounted on the throttle body. The TPS is a variable resistor that provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with an input signal (voltage)that represents throttle blade position. The sensor is connected to the throttle blade shaft. As the position of the throttle blade changes, the resistance of the TPS changes. Along with inputs from other sensors, the PCM uses the TPS input to determine current engine operating conditions. In response to engine operating conditions, the PCM will adjust fuel injector pulse width and ignition timing.

The PCM supplies approximately 5 volts to the TPS. The TPS output voltage (input signal to the PCM) represents the throttle blade position. The PCM receives an input signal voltage from the TPS. It is best to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. This will vary in an approximate range of from .25 volts at minimum throttle opening (idle), to 4.8 volts at WOT wide open throttle.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture, and vibration, leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following:

-Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".

- High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.


Cheap crappy "Lifetime Warranty" parts are often out of specification or even failed right out of the box. Many times they have a short service life before they fail. Always buy top quality replacement parts and genuine Jeep sensors.

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“When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the Republic.”

- Benjamin Franklin
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