My engine has a ghost and no one can tell me the issue ... ? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 07-21-2021, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
thegarbrah
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My engine has a ghost and no one can tell me the issue ... ?

Hi guys new member here, but long time jeep owner and have encountered just about every kind of issue a jeep can throw . But this time around I'm plumb stumped and so are the mechanics.



The Issue: 2004 Jeep Grand Limited edition 4.0L 2wd . The car has 145K miles and all of a sudden the car would start to die out of nowhere. The issue seemed like it would just run out of fuel .



Took it to my mechanic and had the alternator replaced because I know this is a common issue with the Jeep Grands right around this mileage. Still didn't cure the issue.



Then the Jeep would be ok driving but once it hit traffic it would start to "Buck" very hard like it was throwing the transmission, or just completely die out.



Next step was to replace the fuel filter to see if maybe that was clogged. No dice...
Then I replaced the fuel pump... and still no dice



Went back to my mechanic to see if we can figure out what the hell is going on and he said that if the engine isnt throwing a code that it might be an electrical short or possibly a cam position sensor.



Now , the Jeep won't even turn over. I go to start it and hit the gas pedal and the engine will kind of grumble a bit, and occassionally make loud "popping" sounds . If I spend about 10 minutes starting it sometimes it will come to life and will stay running until I put it into gear, or it will drive fine until it just stalls out and dies.


Anyone encounter this kind of issue before or know of what this might be ? I've worked on many different kinds of cars before and I'm fairly good with mechanics but this is just plain bizarre .

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post #2 of 10 Old 07-21-2021, 01:32 PM
jtec
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Your mechanic had no suggestions ?

IMPORTANT - You say engine wont turn over, the engine will NOT spin when you go to start? correct or it spins won't fire/start?

Well I can only guess your mechanic used a SCANNER to check for codes...
The check engine light comes on @ 2seconds EVERY at every start or attempt to start?
Not a substitute but try the key on off trick to double check for codes.
Check fuel PRESSURE with a gauge.

Have you ever changed the CKP (crank sensor) they can cause stalls and no code. A jeep achilleas heal so to speak. But bucking

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 10 Old 07-21-2021, 04:40 PM
CJ7-Tim
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I suggest a mechanic with better diagnostics skills.


Does it have proper fuel pressure ?

Have you tested all the OBD-II engine computer sensors, and inspected their wire plugs for corrosion, bent or pushed back wire plug pins, and inspected and tested their wire harnesses for chafed/melted wire insulation or broken wires ?

Random stalling like somebody flipped a switch is typically the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Bucking, backfiring, and stalling is typically O2 sensor issues.

Test all the sensors, then inspect and test all the sensor wire harnesses.

“We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the Courts,
not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who would pervert the Constitution” Abraham Lincoln, 1859.
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-21-2021, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
thegarbrah
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Appreciate the helpful replies !



So the issue now is that the engine won't fire when the ignition key is on. The car is acting like there is no gas in the tank and the tank is half full. It would make a loud popping sound intermittently when I tried starting before, but now it wont even fire up.



When I took it to the mechanic the jeep would die on the way there and it hates lower idling speed. Then miraculously the jeep runs fine at the mechanics and I had him check fuel pressure, which was fine. He mentioned the Crank Sensor, but said that it may very well be something with the wiring harness.



Changed the Crank Position Sensor and and will check the 02 sensor. I'll have to check each of the sensor wires and take a look .
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-23-2021, 04:14 PM
Thurmand92
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Sounds like cam position sensor

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
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post #6 of 10 Old 07-23-2021, 09:14 PM
jtec
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post all the codes your mechanic retrieved .
You have replaced CKP (crank ) sensor yes or no?
I mentioned in post 2 I asked a question CEL coming on ?

Maybe check the wire harness - driver side. top of engine, rear of eng, where it wraps around the rear of head, look for chaffing, soft loom, torn wires. If engine is running often shaking tugging here will produce codes and rough running eng./

POST ALL CODES

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #7 of 10 Old 07-24-2021, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
thegarbrah
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The car is not throwing any codes is the problem. I replaced the Crank sensor and still nothing. The car will turn on and turn over but not come to life.
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post #8 of 10 Old 07-24-2021, 02:03 PM
jtec
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some ideas to help pin this down -
Will the CEL come on @2seconds then go out every time you try to start?
With a test light or noid light - do the injectors pulse whan cranking?
As someone tries to start spray some carb cleaner into TB - did eng fire and try to start on spray?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 07-24-2021, 02:15 PM
CJ7-Tim
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Test all the sensors, then inspect and test all the sensor wire harnesses.

“We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the Courts,
not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who would pervert the Constitution” Abraham Lincoln, 1859.
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post #10 of 10 Old 07-26-2021, 01:46 PM
laybackman
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Check the ABS DTC's Some years back my 01WJ started out with a slight 'skip' or 'buck' everyone once in a while. As it got worse m y speedo would drop to zero and then back up to whatever speed I was driving. It got worse over time and happened more frequently. No one knew what it was BUT everyone wanted to replace ever sensor for me! Finally decided up buy a newer code reader that can read transmission AND ABS DTC's. According the my new code reader, I had a bad left rear ABS sensor, that was causing my issues. Got so bad I could not drive it. They use the cam and crank sensor and the throttle position switch along with the temperature sensing unit to check all the numbers and keep it running well. What those A-holes do not tell you is that they ALSO use the comparison of the front ABS sensors readings against the back ones! Swapped in another ABS sensor, cleared the DTC codes and it ran beautiful again

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Found out Grandpa is addicted to Viagra. No one is taking it harder than Grandma...
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