First Tcase rebuild - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-25-2020, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
V8FUN
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Sonora
Posts: 44
First Tcase rebuild

Yesterday I tore apart the 231 (1991 build date) and cleaned and painted the case. Good news, bad news. Since this is my first tcase rebuild and I don't know anything about it, I made a list of discrepancies that are obvious or I confirmed thru videos to be wrong. Just like the engine teardown/inspection, I am SO glad I decided to take this apart and find out what I got, cuz it is not good. There is silicon everywhere. The pilot bearing inside the input shaft was driven so far in that I'm not sure the mainshaft was even reaching it. The range fork pads are rubbed off on the front, and the fork is eaten into. The planet had no retaining clip on the outside, so when I rolled the case over to drop it out, it just fell right out without any help. The planet case looks like it got hot (blueing) around one of the outer gears. It operated smooth and the 3 gears all look good, but is it safe to run?



A couple questions.

What sets the pinion depth? I would think it's the thickness of the input bearing, since I didn't see any thrust washer or spacer on any of the vids I saw. The bearing is .625 thick (6010 NR), but the planet can be pushed so far in that it hits the case, and the clip groove is a solid 1/16th or more beyond the inner race of the input bearing. That didn't jive with what I was seeing in the vids.


Who's kit should I get? I have first hand experience using cheap bearings in the past and I'm done with that. Quality and service DOES matter, but I'm not stupid about it.

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post #2 of 6 Old 05-25-2020, 12:05 PM
CJ7-Tim
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You can never go wrong with Novak.

I recommend that you buy a genuine Jeep Factory Service manual. from www.pacificcoastmanuals.com. Everything you need or want to know is in there.

Consider a junkyard t-case that may have less abuse or Bubba dun it repairs.

.
“When the people find that they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the Republic.”

- Benjamin Franklin
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post #3 of 6 Old 05-25-2020, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
V8FUN
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All good recommendations, thanks CJ7-Tim. I was surfing Novak's site and I looks like I should have the 24mm input bearing, and I have the 16mm.
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-29-2020, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
V8FUN
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Join Date: May 2020
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The rebuild kit came today and I'm putting the tcase back together. Does anyone know which way the input shaft seal goes into the retainer? It's a double seal, but the cross section is not a mirror image, and rubber covers one edge of metal part of the seal, but is back from the edge on the other. It looks to me like the direction the seal goes into the retainer does matter, but I haven't found any info on the correct direction. If I had to guess, I'd say the "full rubber" side of the seal goes towards the input bearing?

Last edited by V8FUN; 05-29-2020 at 05:26 PM.
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-29-2020, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
V8FUN
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Woohoo! Enough posts to take pictures! This is what I’m referring to as the “rubber” side, as in the rubber is all the way across the seal.
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post #6 of 6 Old 05-29-2020, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
V8FUN
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Join Date: May 2020
Location: Sonora
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Regarding my damaged range fork (16976), there are no pads in the kit for it. Because the front of all the pads are worn off and there are gouges/groves in the aluminum, I'm going to replace it. An old thread here states the 16976 is replaced by 17833, and it looks to be confirmed to fit as well so that's what I'll get. Also, the Novak kit comes with all new snap rings, so if you're missing any (like I was) this kit has them.
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