Engine stand modifications for a 4.0l? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 4 Old 10-22-2019, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
Ravenbar
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Engine stand modifications for a 4.0l?

I've currrently got a WJ with a 4.0l and also am in the market for a CJ7/YJ with either a 4.2/0l or a small block Chevy. I picked up an engine stand this summer I'm told was used to hold a 460(marked $50, the guy wandered over and said I could have it for $30, and I'd been looking for one, so I had to get it). I know the issue with 4.0l on engine stands is they are long and tend to fold engine stands over.

This stand is in rough shape, not rust or damage wise, but it's been welded together before(designed to bolt together) and all the welds have broke. Bolts are still holding it. It also just has a tube in a tube for rotation. Thinking about somehow using a wheel bearing there, but need to figure out how and also a locking mechanism, possibly a 90 degree gearbox, or a wormgear, like a adjustable wrench has, which would solve both, but also most likely introduce more length to an already too long assembly. Possibly thinking of also putting a mount off the far end to support the offstand end of the engine. Would need to fabricate a pivot, be adjustable to engine length, and also in line with main pivot so the engine can still rotate.


Basicly, I'm looking for ideas on a long term/non-priority engine stand modification project, for the if/when occurrence I need to put a 4.0l on a stand. I've got a couple spare WJ 4.0l's so more than likely, at some point one will end up on a stand. Not afraid to do major modification to the stand, but my metal selection is limited and my welding ability is limited by equipment(only decent welder I've got available is a 220v stick machine, but I've got shaky hands so cant stick weld all that well.)


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post #2 of 4 Old 10-22-2019, 06:16 PM
222Doc
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hard to say with out seeing it. I have a very old now one i have had forever. Its fold type so the legs come up for space. Its held a full dressed BBchevy many times. has the same tube in a tube for rotation the key there is getting it balanced if near 700 pounds rolls on its own would be nasty if it tipped. If the stand legs need to be longer , maybe just get a square tube that fits in drill holes and maybe a bolt to make leg extensions?

4.0 is what bit over 500?
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post #3 of 4 Old 10-23-2019, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
Ravenbar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
hard to say with out seeing it. I have a very old now one i have had forever. Its fold type so the legs come up for space. Its held a full dressed BBchevy many times. has the same tube in a tube for rotation the key there is getting it balanced if near 700 pounds rolls on its own would be nasty if it tipped. If the stand legs need to be longer , maybe just get a square tube that fits in drill holes and maybe a bolt to make leg extensions?

4.0 is what bit over 500?

500lbs sounds about right. It's not so much the weight per say being an issue, but rather the length of the engine and the leverage that length exerts on the stand. the upright of the stand tends to fold over due to the leverage, hence considering an "outboard support." The reasoning behind the gearbox idea is so I can lock it in any position. Currently i tonly has one rotational lock position, which is rather elongated, I if recall, been a while since I took a good look at it. Failure wold look like this, although seeing this, it gives me the idea to add a rear link or 2 to counter the issue, although it wouldn't prevent the failure shown(image found on https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...d.php?t=351938).







If I get a chance I'll go out back and get a picture of the stand. Its just has a T shaped base, but the whole thing is made of 2.5" or 3" tube, rather than the 2" I'm accustom to.

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post #4 of 4 Old 10-24-2019, 05:48 AM
V8GCZJ
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I made my own using tubing from a hydraulic cylinder and brass bushings to allow it to turn. It will handle any weight you put on it unlike most of the china made stands witch are (supposedly 750). But i have had one break at the weld where the flange is. If the strength of the steel aint the issue it's the welds.
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