Engine Control 1 fuse is blowing - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 12-04-2019, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
Nick321
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Engine Control 1 fuse is blowing

Hi I recently got a jeep really cheap that has sat for 6 years. I put a battery in and it would crank but no spark thought it was a cps, I replaced it and still nothing so i started pulling fuses and found that engine control 1 30A fuse was blown. I replaced it and the check engine light and brake light on dash went away so I cranked for abit but then the lights came back and the new fuse was blown. What could be causeing the problem? Ive looked everywhere for broke/shorted out wires and found nothing. I fixed what was broke. Good fuel pressure and new alternator because it was locked up from sitting. I should also mention that it was parked that long due to the cat rustying off and it ran fine before.



Thought I would ask before I start spending money on more fuses trying to find the problem myself. 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo

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post #2 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 09:26 AM
jtec
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IS The diagram representative of the one you have?

Could you circle or point out the problem fuse?


FYI: I will try to help - I handle electrical issues, find them interesting maybe a challenge, that and restoring vehicles to stock is somewhat of a hobby.
BUT the chrysler diagrams of this era are MICKEY MOUSE BS - ok I got that out - let me know the fuse in question.
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When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
Nick321
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Sorry but its not showing the diagrams it just says Attached Imaged in bold
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post #4 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Sorry but its not showing the diagrams it just says Attached Imaged in bold

Nevermind I can see them. I thought i was logged in but I really wasnt
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post #5 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Engine Control 1 30Amp fuse is the one
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post #6 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 12:05 PM
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my thoughts -

The line points to a fuse - check it and post AMP.

We going to eleminate parts of the circuit the problem fuse powers.
1) remove the above fuse #4* I think,
2) is problem fuse did not blow then replace #4 fuse and remove ASD relay-
3) with ASD relay removed did fuse blow? yes or NO
4) If fuse blows with ASD removed replace ASD and remove fuel pump relay
5) did fuse blow with fuel pump relay removed.

That will look at 3 circuits this problem fuse ** powers

* I mentioned the diagrams are BS this era. We have to double check wiring.
** The BS diagram is illegible I cant read the fuse # - either 16 or 18 SO I am calling it problem fuse

Will be off line for a while - sorry I'll get back to this later
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When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #7 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
Nick321
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So here is what i found out. It blows with #4 fuse removed. It blows with #4 fuse replaced and ADS removed. But it did not blow after i took the fuel pump relay off and put the ADS relay back on and to check i cranked it longer and no matter how long i cranked it engine conrtol 1 fuse never blew. Also power is still getting to the fuel pump after relay is removed. I here it prime itself when key is turned to on but i cant here if its still pumping due to the cranking being louder.
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post #8 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 05:44 PM
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wwe are getting somewhere.

1) We know the Fuel pump circuit is the problem. I will get a handle on the circuit and the items on circuit we can check.

2) your comment on fuel pump operating with relay removed suggests there was a work around for the above issue - and finding home made fixes can be tricky -

3) do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If so. install it on fuel rail to confirm fuel pump is operating and the sound you hear. That would be easier right now than probing wires at fuel pump.

I will do some checking and follow up .
Any obvious 'home made' wiring under hood - a added wire or a twisted connection with elec tape - crimp on connectors ?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #9 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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The only wires under the hood that look homemade are the ones i had to fix from some mice. Other than that i cant find/ see anymore broke, corroded, or chewed through wires. Ive cleaned all grounds.
Could the fuel ballast resister be the problem? Mines corroded and the wire covers looked to be striped back abit so the wires are also abit corroded. On the backside it looks wheather cracked.
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post #10 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 06:23 PM
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Looking at this - never easy especially when tired.

The Fuel pump relay also powers the ballast resistor relay... and that also powers the o2 heaters - and they can be problematic - shorting out and disabling the system - just like we have here. BUT I keep saying we need to check twice not jump to conclusions..


Will add more later or tomorrow.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #11 of 15 Old 12-05-2019, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
Nick321
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Tomorrow I will be working but dont let that stop you from inputting, its been really useful so far. Im going to invest in a multimeter so I can check wires properly since ive read other things that suggest useing a test light or multimeter is helpful.
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post #12 of 15 Old 12-06-2019, 10:21 AM
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I am thinking of this issue - did not abandon it, BUSY day today more later.

Suggestion ballast resistor - maybe remove it for a test.... I am rushing sorrry

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #13 of 15 Old 12-06-2019, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
Nick321
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Take your time the Jeep is more of a side project trying to get it running than a major concern of mine. When i get the time i will try that
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post #14 of 15 Old 12-07-2019, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
Nick321
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I replaced the Ballast resistor and put the relay back but it still blew the fuse. I also noticed before the fuse blows the cranking seems like it under abit of load until the fuse pops then it cranks easier.
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post #15 of 15 Old 01-07-2020, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
Nick321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
I am thinking of this issue - did not abandon it, BUSY day today more later.

Suggestion ballast resistor - maybe remove it for a test.... I am rushing sorrry

Hey I found the problem, it turned out to be a bad fuel pump. I replaced it and put some fresh fuel in it and it fired right up.
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