Dana 30 Rebuild - Help?! :) - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 01-13-2014, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
leeherron
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1981 CJ8 
 
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Dana 30 Rebuild - Help?! :)

So, to start with, I'm an idiot. Not because I don't know, nor because I can't learn, just because .. so restoring my '81 CJ-8 ground up .. and I do mean ground up .. already completed the AMC 20 rebuild (cake) but am about to start reassembling my DANA 30 .. sure could use some guidance - nothing specifically yet, so this is a place holder for the hope for help. I have about 3 months of mechanical experience total in my life .. with the exception of this project - which explains the first line. So I am now trying to sort out the reassembly process - and order of reassembly so I can determine which pieces should be painted now, and which after the press has been involved .. here's where I am now. Any suggested guides, or observations appreciated.

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post #2 of 6 Old 01-18-2014, 11:55 AM
emcasull454
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I just overhauled the dana 30 in my 79' CJ5. It isn't overly complicated, it was the first time i had ever done a differential in anything, and i have worked on cars, trucks, and tarctors for years! I used no presses of any kind on mine, but all i done was new U-joints in the axles, all new bearings, seals, spider gear set. Didn't have to do anything to the ball joints, they were still good. I went on the Dana website and downloaded and printed the overhaul manual for the dana 30. Very good instructions.

The proper and probably the best way to set up your pinion depth, bearing preload, and gear lash is to use all the measuring tools indicated in the guide, but what i done was just measured the thickness of the old shims i removed, and put the new ones in the same location. I didn't own, nor have access to these special tools required to do it the right way. Everything worked perfect! As for doing your painting. I painted mine after it was assembled prior to installing the axles!

Just an FYI, those inner axle seals are near impossible to install without damaging them, without using the installation tool, which is rather expensive. I come up with a fool proof and easy way to do it. After alot of thought i might add!

I used a 1/2 inch threaded rod long enough to reach through the long axle tube. Two peices of 3/8 thick 2 inch wide flat steel, drilled in the center for the rod. I used one of the inner races from the old bearing(it fit the seal perfect. Assemble all this through the axle tube and tighten the nuts on either end. It will press the seal in straight effortlessly at least 90% seated! Then just use a short brass drift punch and a hammer to seat it completely! I also made use of the brass punch to drive on all the bearings and install the outer races!
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post #3 of 6 Old 01-20-2014, 12:48 PM
JeeperDon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leeherron View Post
I have about 3 months of mechanical experience total in my life
That could be the saddest thing I've heard a man over 50 say, ever!

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post #4 of 6 Old 12-19-2015, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
leeherron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
That could be the saddest thing I've heard a man over 50 say, ever!
That's funny .. just read this for the first time. I'm more electrical; I'll build my own wire harness from scratch when I rewire this thing, but no, not spent much time wrenching .. not until this project.
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post #5 of 6 Old 12-20-2015, 12:26 PM
TIPPEDITOVER
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like the inner axles have been sand blasted, or glass-bead blasted? If so, that poses potential issues, because there are surfaces on those parts which precision bearings and oil seals ride as well. Sand/glass-bead blasting creates an abrasive surface that will destroy both. You might try polishing those areas to bring back a proper smooth surface.

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post #6 of 6 Old 12-21-2015, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
leeherron
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Originally Posted by TIPPEDITOVER View Post
.. it looks like the inner axles have been sand blasted, or glass-bead blasted? .. proper smooth surface.
Valid point; was worried about same when I did them. The smooth surfaces were protected during the beading .. they retain the same surface as before disassembly.
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