Clarification needed on transmission fluid change - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
fishnjeepn
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Clarification needed on transmission fluid change

Hi Folks,

I'm new here so I apologize if this isn't the correct area to post this question.

I recently started having issues with the transmission on my '02 WJ 4.0 I6 with the 42RE. It started out as some hanging in between 1 and 2, some "hunting" while on an incline in low gear, and then what feels to me like a lack of downshifting into 1st when approaching a stop (when I go to take off it feels as though the jeep is still in second gear and struggling to get going). This last issue is the only one that has stuck around, and with it has come a CEL with P1762 as the code (Governor pressure sensor voltage too high/low).

All this considered, I've decided to change the tranny fluid and while I'm at it replace the governor pressure sensor, solenoid, filter, 3-4 accumulator spring, pan gasket, and output speed sensor (this all came as a kit off ebay).

I'm fairly comfortable with the process of dropping the pan and replacing these parts, and I'm hopeful that this will address my issues, but I can't for the life of me find consistent information on how to refill the transmission afterward.

Some say put in 2 quarts of ATF4, then start it and put it in neutral while you add more.

Some say just dump 4 quarts in while the engine is off, fire it up and check the level per procedure.

Some say immediately fire up the engine after replacing the pan and then add your 4 quarts while the engine is running and jeep is in neutral.

So may questions are:

How much fluid do I need to have on hand?
Do I need to have the engine running while refilling or do I wait until I've put some in to start it up?

I'm worried that I'll do all of this work and then ruin it all by trapping air in the system or by overfilling. I'd be REALLY pissed if I had to go back to square one and re-drop the pan due to overfilling.

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated! This forum has been an absolute wealth of info in terms of diagnosing and fixing my WJ.

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post #2 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 10:06 AM
wingless
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Welcome to the forum.

Have somebody nearby to photograph the "fun" when the waterfall of ATF dumps because it never happens per the plan. Post the image.

The process I use is to initially set the level per the dipstick, then follow the Owner's Manual and FSM. With the engine and transmission operated so that normal operating temperatures are reached, apply parking brake, selector at each position, pausing at each position, return to Neutral, vehicle on level ground, check level on dipstick. Add fluid to be within range. Do not overfill.

Note that the rear band can only be adjusted per the FSM when the pan is removed. A torque wrench, proper skills and the FSM are required to not cause problems when adjusting the two bands.


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post #3 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
fishnjeepn
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Originally Posted by wingless View Post
Welcome to the forum.

Have somebody nearby to photograph the "fun" when the waterfall of ATF dumps because it never happens per the plan. Post the image.

The process I use is to initially set the level per the dipstick, then follow the Owner's Manual and FSM. With the engine and transmission operated so that normal operating temperatures are reached, apply parking brake, selector at each position, pausing at each position, return to Neutral, vehicle on level ground, check level on dipstick. Add fluid to be within range. Do not overfill.

Note that the rear band can only be adjusted per the FSM when the pan is removed. A torque wrench, proper skills and the FSM are required to not cause problems when adjusting the two bands.
Ha! I'm sure it'll be a show since I'm a shade tree mechanic so I'll be on my back all contorted and right in the way. Maybe I can convince my girlfriend to get a video.

Thanks for the input! That's all helpful, I guess I'll track down and FSM because my operators manual is long gone.

One other question just came to mind as I was checking my tranny fluid. My dipstick seems to have two stops - one where it feels like the stick hits the bottom of the pan, and a second when the collet below the dipstick handle hits the top of the dipstick tube. I assume I should check the fluid when the tip of the stick hits the bottom of the pan? I just realized that I've been reading it after pushing the stick ALL the way in....when I push it to the first stop it's just below minimum, when I push it all the way it's just below maximum.

I guess I may just add some ATF, clear the code and go for a drive. Maybe I've just been low this whole time, and if not then I already have the solenoid/sensor.

If I do end up opening the pan I don't plan on touching the bands. I'm comfortable enough to change the parts that I mentioned but the bands are a bit out of my comfort zone.
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 05:32 PM
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Pictures are fine and can be sufficiently entertaining. A video also works.

Yes, insert the dipstick all the way into the tube for the reading.

The suggested method for changing the fluid is to remove all the bolts, except for one on either side of a corner, those get loosened. This permits the opposite corner to drop lowest, making a corner spout to pour into the pan. It is a great theory, but I've yet to see it NOT make a mess.

Be aware that the pan mating surface is easy to damage, making future sealing impossible. The pan may become deformed is one bolt is tightened, then the next and so on. Work around the pan, in a cross fashion, not tight, then a little tighter, gradually increasing the torque. When all the bolts are snug, then torque to specification. Don't deform the pan when prying for removal.


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post #5 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
fishnjeepn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
Pictures are fine and can be sufficiently entertaining. A video also works.

Yes, insert the dipstick all the way into the tube for the reading.

The suggested method for changing the fluid is to remove all the bolts, except for one on either side of a corner, those get loosened. This permits the opposite corner to drop lowest, making a corner spout to pour into the pan. It is a great theory, but I've yet to see it NOT make a mess.

Be aware that the pan mating surface is easy to damage, making future sealing impossible. The pan may become deformed is one bolt is tightened, then the next and so on. Work around the pan, in a cross fashion, not tight, then a little tighter, gradually increasing the torque. When all the bolts are snug, then torque to specification. Don't deform the pan when prying for removal.

Do you mean all the way as in to the "absolute" (second) stop? Or just all the way until it touches the bottom of the pan (first stop).

That's my plan for the pan removal, luckily my fluid catch is fairly wide but I'll have a big piece of cardboard under me for backup driveway protection. I am a tad worried about resealing of the pan and the gasket, I'll be sure to take my time there.
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-20-2017, 05:49 PM
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Yes, insert the dipstick all the way in, until there is absolutely no additional insertion possible to take the fluid level measurement.

One of my very useful tools is a large flat galvanized pan, about 2'x3' w/ a small perimeter lip. This helps control the mess.
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post #7 of 7 Old 08-26-2017, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
I'd be REALLY pissed if I had to go back to square one and re-drop the pan due to overfilling.
If you overfill, drop the cooler return line at the trans and put a hose on it. Drop the hose in your drain pan and run the engine till you drain the appropriate amount of fluid.
This is an excellent technique for doing a full flush on most autos as well.
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