CJ7 Dana 30 front diff carrier shimming backlash? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-05-2019, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
CJwranglerjeeps
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CJ7 Dana 30 front diff carrier shimming backlash?

Hi fellow Jeeper's

Can you put shims on the outside of the races to the inner of the case for backlash settings or do you have to do the OEM/Yukon style shimming behind the bearing to the carrier?

If there are shims for the outside of the bearings, is there a part number I could look for so I can order some.

Ive been battling with shimming my carrier in my Dana 30. Too much left to right movement between the new carrier bearings that I just pressed on. Used the old shims behind the new bearings. Now I only need about 5/64ths of shimming on ring gear side to make pinion and ring gear make good contact. If I don't have to remove bearings again and could put a few shims on side of the race to the inner of the case that would be great.

Thank you for any information. Really appreciate any input! AC

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post #2 of 11 Old 08-05-2019, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
CJwranglerjeeps
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CJ7 Dana 30 front diff shimming for backlash, shims behind bearing or on outside of?

Hi fellow Jeeper's

Can you put shims on the outside of the races to the inner of the case for backlash settings or do you have to do the OEM/Yukon style shimming behind the bearing to the carrier?

If there are shims for the outside of the bearings, is there a part number I could look for so I can order some.

Ive been battling with shimming my carrier in my Dana 30. Too much left to right movement between the new carrier bearings that I just pressed on. Used the old shims behind the new bearings. Now I only need about 5/64ths of shimming on ring gear side to make pinion and ring gear make good contact. If I don't have to remove bearings again and could put a few shims on side of the race to the inner of the case that would be great.

Thank you for any information. Really appreciate any input! AC
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-06-2019, 01:43 PM
Fourtrail
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If you have a case spreader, I say go for it. If not, then put the shim between the bearing and carrier. This is also why most will make/buy a set of setup bearings so they don't have to take the bearings on and off for each shim adjustment. We had a front 30 that was setup with the shims on the outside and without a case spreader it was impossible to pull the carrier out and work on the locker and get it back in with all of the shims. I think the last time it went in, a few of the shims got out of place and opened up the backlash and may have contributed to the broker ring gear teeth.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-07-2019, 03:11 AM
80cj
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Yeah, thats the PIA with Dana axles. The spreader tool is useful but follow the instructions and don't spread more that .015" or you stand a chance of the housing taking set.
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-08-2019, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
CJwranglerjeeps
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Hi Fourtrail,

Thank you for response. The more I do research on this I am thinking of just doing it the OEM way and shimming behind the bearings. I know its a bit more work but maybe worth it especially you saying you had some trouble with outside shims. I'de probably have to make a spreader since they're a bit pricey. Was is an older Dana 30 that you worked on or newer? Where did you fine the outside shims?
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-08-2019, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Hi 80 Cj,

Thank you for reply. The spreader does seem a little risky. Im thinking of doing it the OEM way now after a lot of research but still not sure yet.
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-08-2019, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJwranglerjeeps View Post
Hi Fourtrail,

Thank you for response. The more I do research on this I am thinking of just doing it the OEM way and shimming behind the bearings. I know its a bit more work but maybe worth it especially you saying you had some trouble with outside shims. I'de probably have to make a spreader since they're a bit pricey. Was is an older Dana 30 that you worked on or newer? Where did you fine the outside shims?

82 CJ-7 front dana 30. Guy that set it up just used the shims that were supposed to go between the bearing and carrier on the outside of the bearings.

80 CJ-5, 74 CJ-6, 56 CJ-5
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-08-2019, 07:37 PM
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Set the diff case in the housing with bearings and cups in place. Making sure that the ring gear and pinon have play(BL) between them, stick shims between the bearing cups and housing on both sides until there is no side play(endplay) in the diff case. Measure the total amount of shims. This is the total shim thickness with out preload. Mark it down. Split the shims and install in their correct location under the bearing cones. There should be some backlash between R&P. If not switch shims side to side until there is. Put the diff in the housing and torque the bearing caps. There should be no endplay with the diff sitting in the housing. Measure BL. IIRC, switching.005 of shims will change BL by .003. Keep the total shim thickness constant when making adjustments. When you get correct BL and pattern, add .0075"(or close to it) under each bearing to preload. Easier said than done. If you use setup bearings, more likely than not, you'll have to make adjustments when going to the new bearings. Setting up a D35. AMC 20, Ford 8.8 is simpler because they use heavy shims between the bearing cup and housing. Also, the diff preload is only .008 vs. .015 on D30, 44, 60...
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-09-2019, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Hi 80CJ,

Thank you so much for information! Really appreciate it. Quick question? When you say, " If you use setup bearings, more likely than not, you'll have to make adjustments when going to the new bearings." With the new bearings if I need to make adjustments will I have remove them and re press them on again or will the set up bearings get me in the ball park where I need to be?

My friend who is helping with this project suggested I use the same Timken bearings for the set up's to get a real accurate fit but I can't afford another set of Timken's just to make them doner bearings. I was going to use the new National bearings I just purchased and pressed and use them as the set up bearings. What's your thought on using the same kind of bearings for the fitment?

Thanks again!
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-09-2019, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJwranglerjeeps View Post
Hi 80CJ,

Thank you so much for information! Really appreciate it. Quick question? When you say, " If you use setup bearings, more likely than not, you'll have to make adjustments when going to the new bearings." With the new bearings if I need to make adjustments will I have remove them and re press them on again or will the set up bearings get me in the ball park where I need to be?

My friend who is helping with this project suggested I use the same Timken bearings for the set up's to get a real accurate fit but I can't afford another set of Timken's just to make them doner bearings. I was going to use the new National bearings I just purchased and pressed and use them as the set up bearings. What's your thought on using the same kind of bearings for the fitment?

Thanks again!
Keep in mind that whether using new or setup bearings, you would still have to remove the bearings in order to change adjustment shims. The whole idea of using setup bearings is that you grind out the bearing cone bore so that you can remove and replace them by hand instead of having to use a puller. As far as using different brand setup bearings then going to Timken for final installation, its a crap shoot. You may luck out and everything fits perfectly or you may have to make adjustments. Bearings are supposed to be manufactured to a certain tolerance. Nothing manufactured is exact but some brands may hold tighter tolerances than others.

Edit: You could get one bearing that's at the minus end of the tolerance range and another that's at the plus end and both would still be in tolerance.
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post #11 of 11 Old 08-14-2019, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Hi 80CJ,

Just wanted to thank you again and all who else who replied. Its all buttoned up and back together. So far no leaks from inner seals or noises from differential case. My friend and I figured out what the main issue was to this project. The auto parts store gave me one wrong race, it was way to small. I only checked one with micrometer so 1/2 my fault for not checking everything. We ended up grinding out bearing with die grinder for the set up bearings and setting the shims behind the bearing. Put the Timkens on and all is good. It had a .005/.006 back lash. The front end actually feels much tighter now, not sure if that's a placebo affect or its actually tighter but just happy its back on the road and feels safer. Thanks again!
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