Case spreader? / Which torque wrenches? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 10-25-2010, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
sailsurf7713
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Case spreader? / Which torque wrenches?

I'll be regearing and rebuilding my front and rear axles dana 30/35 in the next couple weeks. This will be my first time doing this. The project doesn't intimidate me much, however I would like to have the "rightest" tools.

I'm renting the yukon bearing puller/dial indicator from ECGS. I am also contemplating the case spreader, however all the write ups I've seen have not included a case spreader. So, to get it or not to get it? I wouldn't mind keeping the cost below having a shop set it up .

Also, show me your torque wrenches. I'm looking at two dial indicator torque wrenches. One 0-250 ft lbs and the other 0-75 in lbs. The price is steep, however I don't mind if these are what i need.

Otherwise I have digital calipers, high quality micrometer, and a garage full of quality hand tools. I plan to have a shop press the carrier bearings on when all settings are within spec and I have a good pattern to avoid a bright orange, couple time use, harbor freight shop press being in my garage.


'99 SE: The "It could be worse..." jeep

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...I say don't lift but CUT. :)

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post #2 of 10 Old 10-25-2010, 02:20 PM
BSInc
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I have not had to use a case spreader on any of my dana rebuilds, it just takes some pry bars and be prepared for the carrier to fly out at you!!! I use a proto 0-70 in-lbs meter

Stanley Proto Industrial Tools :* J6169F *-* 1/4" Drive Dial Torque Wrench 15-75 In-Lb
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post #3 of 10 Old 10-25-2010, 03:23 PM
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On setup don't put the carrier under too much preaload, at time of final assy, add shims to each side to achive bearing preload. If you can't get the carrier in you can heat the chunk up a little. This will expand the distance between bearings and the carrier will slide in much easier. Heat also works for instaling bearings and a cheep press should work fine. As for a torque wrench I use an I-beam style.

Ted

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post #4 of 10 Old 10-25-2010, 04:33 PM
flatlander757
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I say since you're new to it, don't bother with a case spreader... if you don't know what you're doing then you can distort the housing and you're SOL because now the housing won't "spring back" and you will have problems with your carrier walking in the housing and you'll either wear bearings quickly or destroy your ring and pinion from pattern distortion under load.

That's basically worst case scenario, but possible.

IMO, don't worry about the case spreader... when you are doing your gear setup, use just enough shims to make it a tiny bit snug going in and out of the housing(no side to side play when it's seated!)... then add about 0.008-0.010 worth of shims total between the left and the right sides to add your preload.

Once you do this, there's a chance the pattern will change, you should be able to pull the carrier bearings and fine-tune the backlash very easily with the Yukon bearing puller tool.

FWIW I've only ever used a case spreader once, and that was when I was first learning how to regear... my "mentor" just preferred to use them so he made me use it.

Some tricks for popping a stubborn carrier out:

1) stuff a rag between the ring and pinion... turn pinion... it will start popping out. May need to use a pry bar on the non-ring-gear-side to keep it popping out "evenly" or it will bind.

2) wrench on one of the ring gear bolts... turn the pinion and as the wrench hits the case it will pop the carrier out. This doesn't sound like it would be super effective, but it works incredibly well. Keep in mind whether you are "tightening" or "loosening" the bolt as you turn the carrier... I usually try to turn it in the tightening direction.

3) 2 pry bars... some carriers have spots that make this a pretty easy method... IIRC a D44 stock carrier has a couple "tabs" that make it easy to start prying.

To get the carrier seated:

Big F'n deadblow hammer.


It should take quite a few good whacks to get a properly pre-loaded carrier in the housing... I usually have to hit a carrier about 3-5 times to get it nearly completely seated, and pull it the rest of the way(usually the last 1/4" or so) with the bearing caps and bolts.



Good luck!\

edit: pick up a small shop press... such as the Harbor Freight 20 ton press... totally worth it and works great in combination with the Yukon bearing pulling tools... I'm guessing you saw my regearing threads involving Jake's and MarineJRM's D44s... MarineJRM's 44 was so much nicer to do since I had a press and puller. My back was greatly appreciating those purchases

SOLDThe lumbering steel-laden pig - 2003 TJ - 40" LTBs - D60/D70HD - 5.86s - Detroit lockers - 110" wheelbase

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post #5 of 10 Old 10-25-2010, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for your input, I'll skip the case spreader and pick up some big pry bars. I'll also grab the shop press.

Does anyone know of a big (250 ft lb) beam style torque wrench?

Flatlander, I read your threads and will be referencing them again very soon. Thank you for your documentation. I'll try to document my rebuilds, but I'm typically awful at it.

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...I say don't lift but CUT. :)

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post #6 of 10 Old 10-25-2010, 06:14 PM
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Once you set preload a few times, and you will be setting quite a few times in the beginning.
You won't need the in/lb torque wrench. You will be able to set it by feel. Rent the tools nessesary.
Save your $200 and get this if you want a acurate in/lb torq

Amazon.com: KD Tools 2955 Beam Torque Wrench (0-60-Inch/Pounds 1/4-Inch drive): Home Improvement

As for the bearing puller I used this one and it never has let me down. Make sure you pull with the races on!!!

YouTube - Jeep, Safe Bearing Removal Tool

Never used a case spreader, just a nice soft dead blow mallet and patience.

Last edited by 93ZJ_5.2_ca; 10-25-2010 at 07:09 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-25-2010, 08:09 PM
93ZJ_5.2_ca
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Here is a video of a decent amount of prelaod on a dana 30 carrier removal with no spreader.


YouTube - Gear set up, too much backlash, Dana 30, Jeep TJ
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-25-2010, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
sailsurf7713
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Thanks for the tip on the torque wrench. I'm gonna get a clicker style 300 ft lb for the pinion nut and ring gear bolts. I also have a beam style 150 ft lb to double check the ring gear bolts.

This job seems straight forward, however I can't seem to get my head around setting pinion preload with the crush sleeve in the dana 35. I'm assuming it must be started then as it is crushed further in increments preload changes. Does the amount it is crushed affect pinion depth or is that completely dependent on the shim stack? Sorry if this sounds stupid, but without being able to physically see something it can be a bit tough to visualize.

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Originally Posted by 97flexy View Post
...I say don't lift but CUT. :)

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post #9 of 10 Old 10-25-2010, 11:01 PM
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You are correct about the crush sleeve. it will not effect your pattern. use the old one for setup and use the new one on final assembly. one time use. it takes a lot of torque to get it started, then you will need a small in-lb torque meter to see where you are at. for the $40 for a beam style. go for it.
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-25-2010, 11:22 PM
93ZJ_5.2_ca
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Yes and no for the pinion depth, your adjusting bearing tention on the yoke bearing so that does not effect pinion depth in the case. Anyone who has owned skateboard knows about preload. If the bearing spins freely and has play you can feel, then there is not enough preload, if it can't spin by hand there is too much.
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