What are the problems witha 2001 xj - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 18 Old 10-14-2019, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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What are the problems witha 2001 xj

I am looking at buying a 01 xj. What are some of things that this year has that I should watch for.

I know the 00"s have a head issue that certain heads crack at #3 clylinder but is that also with 01"s?

so what other issues the 01's may have?

It has 212K on the odometer. 4dr 4x4 and automatic. cruise.

The guy says he is only getting 13 PSI oil pressure with a pressure qage. He had a mechanic replace the oil pump and replace the real main oil seal. does this sound to low?

thanks


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post #2 of 18 Old 10-14-2019, 02:53 PM
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Yes. All '00's and '01's.
Pretty much at the bottom of the rage of acceptable specs.
Is that 13 PSI at a hot idle?
Cause that is what you really want to know.
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post #3 of 18 Old 10-14-2019, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Submariner View Post
I am looking at buying a 01 xj. What are some of things that this year has that I should watch for.

I know the 00"s have a head issue that certain heads crack at #3 clylinder but is that also with 01"s?

so what other issues the 01's may have?

It has 212K on the odometer. 4dr 4x4 and automatic. cruise.

The guy says he is only getting 13 PSI oil pressure with a pressure qage. He had a mechanic replace the oil pump and replace the real main oil seal. does this sound to low?

thanks
Powertrain wise, there is no difference.

- The differences I've seen from 2000-2001 are options. I've seen a mix & match of trim levels. It looks like DaimlerChrysler was using up their XJ stock of materials and putting it into what everfit, then calling it what ever Edition. You might find some old part numbers that are superseded by new ones. I'd imagine by now, after basically 20 years, the older (inferior) parts have been replaced.

- I'm sure you know the basics at this point with XJ's. Take a look at what's been replaced & consider everything else on borrowed time.
- Floor pans.
- Cataltic Converters.
- Exhaust System.
- Radiator.
- Crankshaft Position Sensor.
- A/C system.
- Rear Axle Shaft Seals to include contaminated brake shoes.
- Radiator Hoses.
- Heater Core.
- Underside of oil fill cap (milky substance).
- Nice green colored coolant.

Depending on his asking price & how comfortable you feel with purchasing the vehicle, maybe ask to do an oil change with the oil & the weight that you like to run, just to see what the oil pressure does. Who knows what a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil has done for the oil pressure....

Maybe talk to the mechanic that replaced the oil pump (or was it the oil pump sending unit?). They might have some insight as to what's up with the vehicle.

Borrowed time.....
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post #4 of 18 Old 10-14-2019, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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I looked at it today, came away with the idea I am going to buy it.

Biggest problem I seen was the electric windows are going to need attention. there is no rust. the passenger rear door has a small dent. easily fixed( have a spare, came color)

it did seem like the front axle was binding up when in 4wd I would imigine it need to be lubed up good and I think it has a locker in the rear end.

shifted in and out of 4wh and low without any issues. Oil pressure was good.

I did not look down into the valve cover to see if there was any milk to indicate a cracked head. no smoke when it was started and it was cold when I did start it.

I is a Sport but had electric everything and the fancy head liner lights and speaker in the headliner in the rear. class 3 trailer hitch with 7pin wiring and setup for electric brakes for a bigger trailer.

I only spent $2000 for it. It does need better tires on it. a good set of 30" mud tarrins/mountian snow tires

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post #5 of 18 Old 10-15-2019, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Submariner View Post
I looked at it today, came away with the idea I am going to buy it.

Biggest problem I seen was the electric windows are going to need attention. there is no rust. the passenger rear door has a small dent. easily fixed( have a spare, came color)

it did seem like the front axle was binding up when in 4wd I would imigine it need to be lubed up good and I think it has a locker in the rear end.
Window regulator/motors are only around $35. Check the axle u-joints for binding. Mine needed to be replaced soon after I bought it.

p.s. The head would have cracked long ago if it was going to. Both of my 00-01' Jeeps cracked the head at around 130-140,000 miles.
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TheBoogieman is a jerk.
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post #6 of 18 Old 10-15-2019, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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I will bring it home tomorrow and let you know "what" I bought for $2000. looks good for now.
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post #7 of 18 Old 10-16-2019, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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It is home, tucked nicely into the shop. I gave it a brief once over and looked at the paperwork.

The good, Seems that it has been cared for.
Rear brakes were done by Les Schwab.
A 'shop" has installed a new high output oil pump and a new rear main seal. Seems that the pressure gage showed low oil pressure.
some other Items were fixed to make it pass the emissions here in Washington. (YEAH)
new cat and it looks like 3" exhaust system was installed.
Has 3.54 gears (open)
No lift but has new shocks
2" reciever hitch

The bad,
oil pressure Gage on the dash is still fluctuating and erratic, so 40 lbs then 10 lbs and back up. Has a new oil sensor but. that could be bad to. I may change it out for the fun of it to see if that changes things
need struts for back door
rear window wiper does not work
headliner is having issues around the front of the cabin
dent in the passenger side rear door(not bad)_
dent in rear bumper
rubber on front bumper is louse.
has p225 r75 15 ms tire(street)
drivers electric window acts up a bit. does not stop the motor when at the top or bottom.

It does drive good. Tomorrow I will check the tie rods and ball joints to see how they are.

Other then that $2000, I think i made a good deal. I am happy with it.
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post #8 of 18 Old 10-18-2019, 12:28 AM
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post #9 of 18 Old 10-18-2019, 04:00 AM
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drivers electric window acts up a bit. does not stop the motor when at the top or bottom.
I had the same problem with my '00 when I first bought it. I believe that a worm gear in there is stripped.

http://www.steigerperformance.com/dif.cgi?SP12001

I thought about fixing the one I had but opted to just buy a new aftermarket one instead.
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post #10 of 18 Old 10-18-2019, 09:12 AM
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sounds like a GREAT find and price.
the big problem with the XJ's is they stopped making them.

OIl pressure - get a mechanical gauge on it then we have the true readings, dash gauges are NOT accurate, And the old world 4.0L is low pressure at idle and compared to todays engines - might seam alarming.

The axle binding, you were on dirt/sand when doing the 4WD, it is not a good check on pavement, there was a feeling of binding.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #11 of 18 Old 10-19-2019, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Here it is.....Just a stock cherokee. seems to run out ok, got a issue with the oil pressure gage. sometimes it is 50 psi, the 35PSI and sometimes 10PSI. no rhythm no reason. it is not making any noise and the oil looks good
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post #12 of 18 Old 10-21-2019, 01:57 AM
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Clean looking First thing I'd do to it, is remove the ball hitch from the receiver. Your shin(s) will thank you for it.
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post #13 of 18 Old 10-21-2019, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Submariner View Post
got a issue with the oil pressure gage. sometimes it is 50 psi, the 35PSI and sometimes 10PSI. no rhythm no reason. it is not making any noise and the oil looks good
Looks nice and clean.

13 psi at idle is normal. Mine ran from 10-75 at any given time. I replaced the sending unit with a Mopar $50 one and now it's as accurate as that crappy stock dash gauge gets (like jtec pointed out). I never trust them too much.

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Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
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post #14 of 18 Old 10-21-2019, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Looks nice and clean.

13 psi at idle is normal. Mine ran from 10-75 at any given time. I replaced the sending unit with a Mopar $50 one and now it's as accurate as that crappy stock dash gauge gets (like jtec pointed out). I never trust them too much.
I have an invoice that states the oil sensor, high volume oil pump, oil pickup tube and screen and the oil pan gasket set was installed by a NAPA guaranteed mechanic around the 5th of this month.

The oil gage does fluctuate between 10 and 60PSI and the red light does come on when the oil pressure gage reads 10 psi- but it does not happen all the time. most of the time when running at 2000 rpm the oil pressure is 40-45 psi.. I really not to worried about it but it does cause that "oh ****" feeling when the red light comes on the dash.

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post #15 of 18 Old 10-22-2019, 10:42 AM
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I have an invoice that states the oil sensor, high volume oil pump, oil pickup tube and screen and the oil pan gasket set was installed by a NAPA guaranteed mechanic around the 5th of this month.

The oil gage does fluctuate between 10 and 60PSI and the red light does come on when the oil pressure gage reads 10 psi- but it does not happen all the time. most of the time when running at 2000 rpm the oil pressure is 40-45 psi.. I really not to worried about it but it does cause that "oh ****" feeling when the red light comes on the dash.
I wouldn't worry about it unless it drops to zero and starts running bad. Sometimes the cheaper Chinese sensors don't work as good as the expensive Mopar stuff. That gauge isn't that accurate anyway.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift/Rancho 9000XL shocks/5.13 gears-35" MTZs/BM brakes
99' XJ / 5" BDS lift/ 33" DC extreme country MTs. Jeep #18
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