What did you do to your XJ/MJ today? - Page 6180 - JeepForum.com
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post #92686 of 93021 Old 05-30-2020, 08:23 AM
downs
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Yesterday I put a low profile USB outlet in the passenger side cubbie. This will let me power my nav tablet easier and give my wife some place to power her gizmos when on the road.





This morning I got up cause the dogs wouldnt stop barking and decied to go clean up my center console secondary radio spot install. I routed the SAE connector in and slapped a grommet on it, this will power up any of my radios. Then put all the APRS stuff in there and Routed all the cabling for that and stowed it behind the rear support for the console.







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1995 Jeep Cherokee Country 4X4 Stock
AW4/NP231/C8.25/D30/"UpCounty" suspension
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post #92687 of 93021 Old 05-30-2020, 12:19 PM
Ralph77
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So I got more done today then I thought I would.
I also figured out that clamp attached to the side of the engine that the battery cable from the starter
went through by the oil filter adapter. I can't get under there to take a picture but it is a spring clip of sorts
with a hook. If you squeeze it together you can get it to unhook.
So it pays to live close to the auto parts store you work at. I had them drop off 4' of split loom for that
brown wire that goes to the starter. I decided to loom that and the battery cable to the starter separately.
So I can't close the clamp back up to hook like it did. But you can bend it back around kinda.
That and strategically placed zip ties here and there should be good.
So another thing I did was reloom the battery cables I made last year. Nobody local sell 5/8" split loom.
1/2" or 3/4". 5/8" is the perfect size for the 2 gauge battery cable.
So last year I used 3/4" to protect the battery cables. Was a pain cause I had to fold it over on itself and
wrap electrical tape in places to keep it nice and tight.
Found some 5/8" on Amazon and redid all the cables.
So I also pieced in some loom here and there for the wires that are now separate but were part of the battery
cable harness.
A shot of that and one of the battery cables I reloomed below.

So I am beat and calling it a day. Figure first thing I do tomorrow is put in the 155 amp alternator.
I already swapped out the 125 amp mega fuse for a 175 amp.
Then I guess swap spark plugs, get the Viper coil mod done, put the battery tray and battery back in.
Thinking I will have to make slight adjustment here and there on the battery cables to get them to
line up with the terminals again. Also a strategically placed zip tie here and there for the smaller wires
that were part of the battery cable harness that are now freestanding.
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post #92688 of 93021 Old 05-30-2020, 01:43 PM
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Finally ordered an AX15 on Ebay yesterday, so I started the manual conversion as I basically had everything else sitting in my living room already.

Old on the right, new on the left


Apparently I had drilled a hole and installed a grommet in the firewall almost right where one of the clutch master cylinder bolts is supposed to go though. And jeep was kind enough to center punch the firewall for the bolts and center of the master cylinder, which made it a no-nonsense job of figuring out where to drill. I had to dremel my wiring hole a bit as I wasnt fortunate enough to have centered that where I needed it.



Since I had to un-do some wiring due to that hole location, I decided to not stop there. I decided to rip out all my gauge and switch wiring while I was at it, I had pieced parts in over time and it was a total disaster, so Ill move all the relays, fuses, and whatnot to behind the passenger seat I think, or somewhere out of the way once I decide on a new location to bring things through the firewall. Either way its a total mess in there right now with bits of wire hanging out waiting to be re-organized.
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perfect depends on how far away you are when you look at it:D
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It's a 4.0 ... as long as there's something in the crank case that isn't coolant I'm sure it will still run forever.
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post #92689 of 93021 Old 05-31-2020, 06:12 AM
Ralph77
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So yesterday beat me up a little more then I thought. LOL.
Bare minimum I would like to get done today.
That is a stock alternator for an '00 that I had my guy up the amps in.
He said he got it to just under 155.
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post #92690 of 93021 Old 05-31-2020, 08:14 AM
XJ-Buzz
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Well, going to sell the Jeep. The twists and turns of life, I guess. I'll collect all my paperwork and develop a fair Bio of her and hopefully someone out there in the XJ world will see that she has a good start on a project or just a DD and fun time.
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post #92691 of 93021 Old 05-31-2020, 08:25 AM
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So the plugs did not look to bad. Ignore #4 that is a newer plug from when I had that P304 last year. But they are all going bye bye anyway. Hold on to #4 for my next misfire. LOL.
So all the plugs are in. Alternator is in. Belt is tightened to about 150 according to my belt tension gauge.

So taking a page out of a member on another forums book doing the Viper Coil mod from Ksuspensions but bought a Mopar coil and wires separately.
The Spectra they sell has 4 mounting points and they give you 4 washers, nuts, and bolts. The Mopar only has two. But there are a couple holes there not punched through.
He used a soldering iron and punched through the holes. I was thinking of doing the same but by heating up a steel rod and punching them through.
Decided against it. Grabbed some lock washers and decided I will use all 4 washers on just the two bolts.
Another thing I don't like is using the self tapping screws that secure the coolant overflow for the bracket and coil.
Some little M4 bolts, nuts, lock washers,and some M5 washers (little more surface area) are going to be used to secure it now.
Was thinking of making the hole bigger. In the bracket it would not be an issue but really did not want to drill the overflow tank.
M4's fit without a problem. Also figured add some split loom to the harness.

Last some spark plug wires and some separators for them.
See how much of this I get done today. LOL.
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post #92692 of 93021 Old 05-31-2020, 10:21 AM
Ralph77
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So here is a shot with all the wires routed.
With everything going on I will be happy if the Jeep starts and runs properly. MLOL.
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post #92693 of 93021 Old 05-31-2020, 11:42 AM
jaredalv
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After a massive ordeal with FedEx damaging, losing, finding, losing again, it made it back to JCR for a fresh powder coat!

Props to the guys at JCR dealing with all my emails and headache with FedEx!

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post #92694 of 93021 Old 05-31-2020, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph77 View Post
So here is a shot with all the wires routed.
With everything going on I will be happy if the Jeep starts and runs properly. MLOL.
From your pictures there, it looks like you changed your Engine Electrical System over to a Distributor and Spark Plug Wire set-up?

What are the Advantages of changing over to this system?

How much work involved and Cost?

Thank You,
Bo
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post #92695 of 93021 Old 05-31-2020, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riderboy1961 View Post
From your pictures there, it looks like you changed your Engine Electrical System over to a Distributor and Spark Plug Wire set-up?

What are the Advantages of changing over to this system?
Now he can tell everyone it's a 99' and that it won't crack the head.

p.s. There's no advantage to doing it.
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TheBoogieman is a jerk.
GOT IT BACK 6/17. 03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift with 4" lift coils up front/Zone hydro shocks/5.13 gears/35" Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 tires/Black Magic brakes. Jeep #17 & 19.
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post #92696 of 93021 Old 05-31-2020, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riderboy1961 View Post
From your pictures there, it looks like you changed your Engine Electrical System over to a Distributor and Spark Plug Wire set-up?

What are the Advantages of changing over to this system?

How much work involved and Cost?

Pretty easy actually.
It just gets rid of the coil rail.
You can get the complete kit here:

https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store...il_Mod_.html#/

I used a real Mopar coil and bought my own wires so it cost me more.
I pull my plugs and look at them every year. With an '00 and a 0331 head you can tell somethings just by looking at them.
#3 and #4 are where the bad things happen. LOL.
Plus I have to assume it would be easier to diagnose misfires and whatnot.
And to be frank I just wanted to. MLOL

So the Jeep started and seems fine.
Who'd thunk? LOL.
If I ever get to my aux fuse box I can get rid of those few wires
for the headlight harness and fog lights.
I treated her to a new tie down.
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post #92697 of 93021 Old 05-31-2020, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by downs View Post
Yesterday I put a low profile USB outlet in the passenger side cubbie. This will let me power my nav tablet easier and give my wife some place to power her gizmos when on the road.





This morning I got up cause the dogs wouldnt stop barking and decied to go clean up my center console secondary radio spot install. I routed the SAE connector in and slapped a grommet on it, this will power up any of my radios. Then put all the APRS stuff in there and Routed all the cabling for that and stowed it behind the rear support for the console.







Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Oooh more please. My goal is to have my Jeep serve as a commo wagon on trips and when out wheeling. I’ve got a 2m/70cm rig ready for it along with a network radio plus the usual 11 meter.

**1997 Jeep Cherokee SE**
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post #92698 of 93021 Old 05-31-2020, 03:10 PM
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Worked on my buddies xj putting in a trussed geared and locked 30 and replaced a broken bump pad on my xj.

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97 XJ on 4Ds.
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post #92699 of 93021 Old 05-31-2020, 09:09 PM
downs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kadetklapp View Post
Oooh more please. My goal is to have my Jeep serve as a commo wagon on trips and when out wheeling. Iíve got a 2m/70cm rig ready for it along with a network radio plus the usual 11 meter.
I run a dual band raduo overhead. The center console is a secondary spot for APRS, another dual band ,or CB.

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1995 Jeep Cherokee Country 4X4 Stock
AW4/NP231/C8.25/D30/"UpCounty" suspension
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post #92700 of 93021 Old 06-01-2020, 08:23 AM
Ralph77
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So I am not really sure why but I picked up 4 bolts today to cap the holes that the bolts for the coil rail go in.
In case anybody is interested the ones I bought are M8X1.25X12's.
I anti-seized them and just screwed them in by hand.
I figure it will keep crap out of the hole and for the 32 cents they cost me why not.
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