Maybe a clue here > https://www.worthpoint.com/worthoped...93516-53150275

Somebody on another forum posted that link for me.
I wish I could find an link for an actual retailer.
But it does give some info I was wondering about.
I figured they retailed for about that but $114 for these off the Mac Tool Truck sounds cheap.
Being how expensive things are off the tool trucks.

New engine from Titan Engines. As if i wasnt broke enough lol...

Just Empty Every Pocket .

I would suggest getting a set of T taps as well. Make it much easier. Just clamp the t tap around the wire, and push in the connector for the remote start wire.

I had an alarm that was useless. And the factory remote that came with the car was pretty much the same.

Definitely increased functionality.

Found the idler pulley squeaking when cold.* Also has some.wobble to it.* Ordered a new one

Was getting a gas smell and found a very small leak at the fuel pressure regulator. pulled it out and the original 25 year old orings finally gave up the ghost.* Im guessing our recent spat of cold weather finally did them in. Found an oring in my parts pile to replace the outer o ring which stopped the leak but didnt have the inner oring so my fuel system wont hold pressure when the engine is off. Ordered a new Delphi branded unit*

Changed oil 300 miles early cause i had the time.* Rotella T4 10w30 and a mopar filter.*


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Had the same thing happen to our Country a few years ago .
We were no where near any parts houses , so I simply disconnected and stopped the vacuum and used the old regulator as a seal for the rail .

I never did replace the regulator as it didn't seem to make much difference without it functioning . The motor ran fine and always started instantly .
Guess I just got lucky for the 20,000 miles .

Just did a transmission flush and fill. Fluid was black. I don’t think it smelt burnt but it sure was black.

Next up I have to do both differentials and I’m hoping I can wait until spring time. I think it’s time for a new oil pan.

I was able to get a gasket for the rear differential cover but I wasn’t unsuccessful for the front. I’m guessing I have to use gasket maker?

Also, what would you say the probability is that I would need a new rear differential cover. It looks like it has been leaking so I bought a new rubber plug. But it seems to be a little higher than the plug as well. No where around the top bolts though.

LubeLocker or Napa for the front.

You can use a Lubelocker gasket if your differential cover is in good shape. I have always just used RTV. Even after repeatedly dragging the diff over the rocks enough to shave through half of the bottom most bolt on the cover, it hasn't leaked on me. It can be a pain to get the cover back off sometimes though.

For the leak at the plug, remove the old one, then make sure the area the plug sits is nice and clean with no debris, and just pop the new plug in. When they leak, I've found the oil seems to travel up and around the area, not just straight down. Probably just due to how the air flows around the diff but honestly not sure. That sounds pretty typical though.

I was planning on draining the rear differential and refilling and using a new plug. I just wasn’t sure what is the likelihood of the cover having a hole in it above the plug. I got some brake parts cleaner to clean up the cover as well to get a better idea of what I’m looking at.

Snapped off the rear shock lower bolt/stud at the threads. My 20 minute shock replacement just got more time consuming and expensive. I need to learn how to weld.

When you get to actually doing the job if you plan on doing any deeper water wheeling I say go for the LubeLocker. If not just use this:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PET7...Input=gear+oil

Maybe think about going to a synthectic too. Use Valvoline VV975 in my open 8.25.

I know it happens, seen a couple threads about it, but considering how big that damn bolt is.................

Been telling myself for 45 years I should learn to weld. Finally broke down and bought a used MillerMatic 135 this year. Now if I can just spend some time with it and see if I can actually teach myself how to weld.

That's what I thought. I had already changed the shocks less than a year ago. I didn't even put that much pressure on it when it snapped. I was going to cut the stud off, but wasn't sure how well a drill bit would go through the thick back of the welded stud. I can't get up in that little space with my saw.

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