What did you do to your XJ/MJ today? - Page 6104 - JeepForum.com
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post #91546 of 91818 Old 08-05-2019, 12:35 AM
Ralph77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FairlanePhil View Post
If it's not rusty steel the POR WILL flake off. I stripped an engine bay with an air nozzle when the PO had painted it over painted metal
Actually the jury is still out on that. I have been experimenting with POR 15 on cleaner metal. So far so good. But prep is more critical on cleaner metal. I have been scuffing it up, cleaning it, and using more of their Metal Prep and keeping it wet for a longer period of time then the instructions say. Did all my skid plates and tow hook brackets.

But I still agree that for cleaner metal POR 15 is probably not the best choice.

Now with rusty metal I am very happy with it. My gas tank heat shield. No prep at all. Did not even wire brush it. Was on the Jeep for 2 years before I took it off to hang a gas tank skid. The rust you see in the pictures is the spots I could not get to with a brush when it was hanging on the Jeep.

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post #91547 of 91818 Old 08-05-2019, 05:39 AM
75SV1
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I did some battery cables like Ralph77. I used some crimp type battery terminals. I bought them at a NAPA, Grotes. They look like repackaged Fusion. I used 2/0 for a 1/0 and 4 ga wires. I also bought different brands on wire. The ones from the Audio Shop were a bit thicker. I think I need a 3/0 for them. I installed the negative wires and the motor turns over again.

With POR 15, I like to soak the part in the Metal Prep overnight. I have a 5 gal bucket with the stuff mixed. I but the small cans, so the stuff is fresh. Two coats, then spray over it.
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post #91548 of 91818 Old 08-05-2019, 06:10 AM
Ralph77
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Originally Posted by 75SV1 View Post
With POR 15, I like to soak the part in the Metal Prep overnight. I have a 5 gal bucket with the stuff mixed. I but the small cans, so the stuff is fresh. Two coats, then spray over it.
Would love to be able to soak stuff like that overnight.
Amount of Metal Prep to do so would be staggering.
Plus I have no idea of the longevity of the stuff.
Also some stuff would just be to big to do that.
You do know that Metal Prep is meant to be used straight.

How do you know when it has reached the limits of its efficiency?
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post #91549 of 91818 Old 08-05-2019, 06:37 AM
Ralph77
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So I am going to metal prep for 45 minutes. Which is 15 minutes longer then I usually do cleaner metal
and 1/2 hour longer then the instructions for POR 15 say. They say to keep it wet for 15 minutes.

I am going to recycle the metal prep for this particular use.
75SVI says he keeps reusing it. But weather I will use it for
a future use is something I am going to have to think about.
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post #91550 of 91818 Old 08-05-2019, 08:05 AM
pdcomm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph77 View Post

I am going to recycle the metal prep for this particular use.
75SVI says he keeps reusing it. But weather I will use it for
a future use is something I am going to have to think about.
Why wouldn't you re-use it ?
Sure the next use it may be a bit weaker , if that's possible , so leave it work a bit longer . You seem to like doing that anyway .

1995 Cherokee Country . Gone , but , not forgotten .

Goes around , comes around .
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post #91551 of 91818 Old 08-05-2019, 08:19 AM
Ralph77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdcomm View Post
Why wouldn't you re-use it ?
Sure the next use it may be a bit weaker , if that's possible , so leave it work a bit longer . You seem to like doing that anyway .
Problem is I just don't know.
I like the Evapo-Rust. When I use it I save it in a separate bottle to reuse.
And it does get to the point where it is shot.
But the thing is I can tell when it is time. The rust is just not being removed.
Simple as that.
With Metal Prep how will you know for sure. Things do get a "finish" when you use it.
But is it where you want it to get the best results you can?
Thinking that could result in a big waste of time and materials.
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post #91552 of 91818 Old 08-05-2019, 08:27 AM
75SV1
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I did not know not to cut it. I think I read water soluble and went with it. I did and still get results??? I do reuse it. Still, best to follow instructions. The parts I dunk are sand blasted. I coat twice with POR. I also use VHT Chassis Black. I'd use that on the patches Ralph77 cleared off. On bare metal, I try and use a self etching primer. I don't use POR 15 if I use that.

I do have Evpo Rust and some other. I have some sealable containers and put some rusted parts in there overnight or several days.
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post #91553 of 91818 Old 08-05-2019, 08:45 AM
Ralph77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75SV1 View Post
I did not know not to cut it. I think I read water soluble and went with it. I did and still get results??? I do reuse it. Still, best to follow instructions. The parts I dunk are sand blasted. I coat twice with POR. I also use VHT Chassis Black. I'd use that on the patches Ralph77 cleared off. On bare metal, I try and use a self etching primer. I don't use POR 15 if I use that.

I do have Evpo Rust and some other. I have some sealable containers and put some rusted parts in there overnight or several days.
I could be wrong but I am almost positive you are supposed to use Metal Prep full strength. Their cleaner/degreaser you can dilute.
It is water-based. You are right about that.

I am going with the cheaper/regular Duplicolor Bedliner.
The bedliner built up a bit but maybe I should have hit them with some high build sandable primer in those areas.
I am rattle can challenged. My buddy says I should not even be allowed to use them. LOL.

Couple POR 15 things I found:

https://por15.com/assets/images/tech...tal-PrepLR.pdf

https://www.por15.com/assets/images/...air-Kit-V2.pdf

And an exciting shot of bedliner drying.
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post #91554 of 91818 Old 08-05-2019, 09:49 AM
75SV1
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Just to clarify, yes Metal Prep should not be cut or diluted. Thanks for the correction.
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post #91555 of 91818 Old 08-05-2019, 01:30 PM
husker88jeep
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Some love for Valdez, spark plugs and more...

Spent a few hours giving Valdez some love... changed out the spark plugs, cap and rotor, reattached the positive battery cable that had been slipping out of the new battery clamp, and took it to Grease Monkey for an oil change. Spark plug underneath the air conditioning compressor, ( 2nd from front) is always the pita to me... Those battery clamps you buy from auto parts store always seem just a little too big for the gauge of wire so I added a metal shim to it to hopefully keep it from slipping out....and I was amused by the Grease Monkey invoice that said "multiple leaks" on it...LOL I said to the guy.. "You've never owned a Jeep before, have you?"
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post #91556 of 91818 Old 08-05-2019, 08:17 PM
FairlanePhil
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I've had so many mixed experiences with POR products but they really are the only tool for the job. I restored a 70 Torino 10 years ago and my painter gave me a date when I could drop the car off. Just enough time to strip it all to bare metal. As I was wrapping up he took on another restoration and my car sat in bare steel for 18 months. Two coats of Metalready sprayed on kept it perfect even though my garage gets really damp. The issue I found is that when the media evaporates it leaves a coat of zinc chromate. Great for stopping rust but not so good for POR to stick to if you do not get it all off.

Like I said, I have tried a lot of variations of prep, to the point where now I just paint it on and forget it. So far that seems to be OK

Current: 99XJ 6.5 lift-Bought 2015
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post #91557 of 91818 Old 08-06-2019, 06:14 PM
husker88jeep
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I spent half the day at the U Pull It here in Denver today doing research on how I may fix the broken headlight switch cowl that the idiots at Grease Monkey broke while doing their effn "17 point inspection" All I wanted was my fricken oil changed and they broke my damn light switch... So I went to a U Pull It and discovered that the light switch hole is all a part of one big molded plastic piece. Figures.. everything else under the dash is component parts..the fog light switch, the lighter, clock, ****, even the AC switch, but nooooo....the friggen light switch is all apart of the molded dash... UGH!!! Well not knowing what else to do I came up with a MacGyver move as a temporary solution until I can figure out a permanent solution. I took some zip ties and criss crossed them around the back switch wiring and then onto the metal piece in the photo... Not sure what else I can do except perhaps go back to the bone yard and take a cordless dremmel and hack out the area where the light switch screws into....
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post #91558 of 91818 Old 08-06-2019, 06:49 PM
pdcomm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by husker88jeep View Post
I spent half the day at the U Pull It here in Denver today doing research on how I may fix the broken headlight switch cowl that the idiots at Grease Monkey broke while doing their effn "17 point inspection" All I wanted was my fricken oil changed and they broke my damn light switch... So I went to a U Pull It and discovered that the light switch hole is all a part of one big molded plastic piece. Figures.. everything else under the dash is component parts..the fog light switch, the lighter, clock, ****, even the AC switch, but nooooo....the friggen light switch is all apart of the molded dash... UGH!!! Well not knowing what else to do I came up with a MacGyver move as a temporary solution until I can figure out a permanent solution. I took some zip ties and criss crossed them around the back switch wiring and then onto the metal piece in the photo... Not sure what else I can do except perhaps go back to the bone yard and take a cordless dremmel and hack out the area where the light switch screws into....
So , will you get free oil changes for a while ?
Sounds like they wanted something more than doing their supposed job . Maybe they should pay for that 'privilege' .

1995 Cherokee Country . Gone , but , not forgotten .

Goes around , comes around .
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post #91559 of 91818 Old 08-06-2019, 10:35 PM
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The heat died down a bit, so I decided to replace my motor mount that broke the bottom bolt. I didn't even get the main bolt out and the rubber completely fell apart. Needless to say, I had to replace both of them and the trans mount. I hope the new ones last 20 years like the old ones did. Well maybe they really only lasted 19 of those.

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03' Rubicon/Zone 4.25" combo lift/Rancho 9000XL shocks/5.13 gears-35" MTZs/BM brakes
99' XJ / 5" BDS lift/ 33" DC extreme country MTs. Jeep #18
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post #91560 of 91818 Old 08-07-2019, 08:35 AM
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Garage
Bought liberty pads, rotors, calipers, hardware, and hoses in preparation to finish my KJ disk swap on the 8.25. Also, started pricing 1350 pinion yokes for the d30 and 8.25, boy they are pricey.

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