What did you do to your XJ/MJ today? - Page 6015 - JeepForum.com
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post #90211 of 91954 Old 07-23-2018, 07:43 AM
S8NNG8
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Originally Posted by zte87 View Post
So got the plugs/wires/cap/rotor/fuel filter (boy was the fuel coming out of the old filter nasty) and replaced the radiator on it today. I also painted the stock xj steel wheels and tossed them on since the yj wheels where narrower. I plan on getting some 30-9.50-15 later this year for it!
Forgot to say if any one in the pnw has a decent head liner for it hit me up haha!




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I can check the local yards here in Helena. I'll let you know what I found after work today, ~6:00.

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D3<!L!>3D
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post #90212 of 91954 Old 07-23-2018, 03:30 PM
SmashDN
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I'm still on jackstands in the garage. Wheels are off, unit hub bolts are out and still pb blasting the axle nut daily. Went to TSC to track down a 3/8' to 1/2" adapter for the battery impact. Likely will not have enough "nut" to remove the axle nut but my hope is that it vibrates it enough I can get it off with the breaker bar/cheater pipe partnership of power. I mapp gassed the axle nut but not budging up to this point.

This points to the fact that I need some air tools and a real compressor not the rinky-dink campbell-hausfeld thing I have that has to come up for a breath of air on a bicycle tire.
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post #90213 of 91954 Old 07-23-2018, 11:29 PM
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I always just had someone stand on the brake and used a big *** breaker for the axle nuts before I had a decent compressor and impact. Worked just fine.

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post #90214 of 91954 Old 07-24-2018, 12:23 AM
zte87
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Originally Posted by Ralph77 View Post
That was one of the things I liked about my '96 I used to own. I could replace a fuel filter. Not so with the '00.


I hear you there, I want to do the one in my 98 but that will wait till the pump dies haha!


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post #90215 of 91954 Old 07-24-2018, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by zte87 View Post
I hear you there, I want to do the one in my 98 but that will wait till the pump dies haha!


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I am almost positive I have a check valve problem in my '00. But when running last I checked it was right at 49 lbs. So that won't get fixed either till the pump dies. Or I get bored and literally have nothing else left to do to the Jeep. LOL.
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post #90216 of 91954 Old 07-24-2018, 04:40 PM
Ralph77
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So as usual I need your guys opinion. I picked up a chrome grill and the chrome headlight bezels. But the real reason is because of the aftermarket grill inserts. The only ones I could kinda find were these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cherokee-Chro...iglink20919-20

I wanted black but I think the holes are to tight. Trying to kinda make it look like the grill on a '98 GC with the 5.9. What my louvers and tire cover are from. So I saw this set up and figured I would bedline the grill inserts and use them on my existing grill. I figured I would give it a shot though. Even though technically the chrome would come on the Limited/Country/ Up Country/European Orvis clone I am shooting for it was the one thing I did not really want to do. I like that my Jeep has no chrome. Even the wheels and badging are more a brushed metal. So what do you guys think? Think the grill with the black headlight bezels is out. Also what do you guys think about the bedlining the inserts with the chrome grill and headlight bezels? Frankly until I came across these I was thinking about going to Home Depot and checking out gutter screens. LOL. Still might.
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post #90217 of 91954 Old 07-24-2018, 05:48 PM
pdcomm
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Ralph ,

You missed the mark with that black out pen . No one cares about your plate .
We want to see what the grill looks like with the screens blacked out .

Personally , I think you should just color match the front end with the rest of the rig .

1995 Cherokee Country . Gone , but , not forgotten .

Goes around , comes around .
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post #90218 of 91954 Old 07-25-2018, 09:46 AM
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Cursed at it alot. The damn thing has gone from totally fine to death wobbling at every tiny bump pretty much overnight. It was fine on my way in to work yesterday. Today I almost turned around, the entire drive was white-knuckle.

Track bar's solid with no play at the ends, the mount's solid. Control arm bushings are all either solid or new, drag link, tie rod and ends are new. Ball joints are new. Can't detect any play/dead spot in the steering gear. I've got one torn up bushing on one sway bar link but that really doesn't seem like it should cause this.

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post #90219 of 91954 Old 07-25-2018, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bluejunior View Post
Cursed at it alot. The damn thing has gone from totally fine to death wobbling at every tiny bump pretty much overnight. It was fine on my way in to work yesterday. Today I almost turned around, the entire drive was white-knuckle.

Track bar's solid with no play at the ends, the mount's solid. Control arm bushings are all either solid or new, drag link, tie rod and ends are new. Ball joints are new. Can't detect any play/dead spot in the steering gear. I've got one torn up bushing on one sway bar link but that really doesn't seem like it should cause this.
If it's causing your axle to face downward at the front, that's where I had my worst issue when I swapped axles. Couldn't identify the problem till the alignment tech at Les Schwab discovered it.

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post #90220 of 91954 Old 07-25-2018, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by S8NNG8 View Post
If it's causing your axle to face downward at the front, that's where I had my worst issue when I swapped axles. Couldn't identify the problem till the alignment tech at Les Schwab discovered it.
I did wonder if the new frame side UCA bushings (the LCA's were in good shape) had managed to nose the whole thing down a smidge while I was typing that out. The trashed ones would have collapsed at the back side, rotating the pinion down a bit, or at least allowing it to do so more easily.

I'll have to do some research and measure when I get home, I don't keep an angle finder in my travel kit. Thanks for confirming it as a potential cause!

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post #90221 of 91954 Old 07-25-2018, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bluejunior View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by S8NNG8 View Post
If it's causing your axle to face downward at the front, that's where I had my worst issue when I swapped axles. Couldn't identify the problem till the alignment tech at Les Schwab discovered it.
I did wonder if the new frame side UCA bushings (the LCA's were in good shape) had managed to nose the whole thing down a smidge while I was typing that out. The trashed ones would have collapsed at the back side, rotating the pinion down a bit, or at least allowing it to do so more easily.

I'll have to do some research and measure when I get home, I don't keep an angle finder in my travel kit. Thanks for confirming it as a potential cause!
Happy to share experience. You've saved me a couple times.

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post #90222 of 91954 Old 07-25-2018, 11:29 PM
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Happy to share experience. You've saved me a couple times.

Looks like it may be the inverse of expected. Unless I'm measuring this very badly (comparing the measurement at the machined surface over the top of the ball joints to the measurement of the ground) I have ~2* too much caster. Either my lowers are a little too long, swapping from LP to HP threw something off or I'm measuring wrong. I'm measuring about 9* of caster and I'm reading at 3" nominal lift (my actual is ~3.25, so it should be damn close) , most guys are running more like 6*, and I'm pretty sure stock spec is 7* +/- 1-1/2*

As a side note: Anyone know if the bolts for the LCA bracket spacers are anything special? I've got one that got bent up bouncing off a rock or something so if I'm going to play with the caster it'll have to be replaced.

Edit to match the thread again: Today I messed around with the alignment and wound up reducing the toe-in a couple turns, looks like I had too much toe and I still have too much caster. There's no shims on the LCA's to remove, so I'm looking at lower arms that can adjust down to stock length or close to it, or upper arms that can be just above stock length. I'm leaning towards the latter, since my eyeballing tells me the axle is pulled back a little from where it wants to be as it is, though I haven't tried cycling the suspension up til it hits the bumpstops to confirm. As I understand caster's impact, this would explain why I've had a lot of trouble getting the return to center behavior I expect, which played a part in me adjusting for more toe-in in the first place, (apparently) falsely blaming that issue on too little toe in.

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post #90223 of 91954 Old 07-26-2018, 03:40 AM
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So I separated the grill inserts from the grill and realized that technically they are not chrome. They are brushed metal like badging. Thinking it is still to much. A fellow forum member on another forum used Photoshop and made them black for me. How cool is that? So black it will be. Now just to figure out how to make them black.
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post #90224 of 91954 Old 07-26-2018, 06:11 AM
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Now just to figure out how to make them black.
Krylon paint.

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TheBoogieman is a jerk.
03' Rubicon/Zone 4" coils with 1" spacers up front/Rancho shocks/5.13 gears-35" MTZs/BM brakes
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post #90225 of 91954 Old 07-26-2018, 06:23 AM
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Ralph ,
You missed the mark with that black out pen . No one cares about your plate .
I never understood the point of that.

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Originally Posted by jeepinmichguy_ View Post
TheBoogieman is a jerk.
03' Rubicon/Zone 4" coils with 1" spacers up front/Rancho shocks/5.13 gears-35" MTZs/BM brakes
99' XJ / 5.5" lift / Rancho shocks/33" DC Extreme country MTs. Jeep #18
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