What did you do to your XJ/MJ today? - Page 5902 - JeepForum.com
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post #88516 of 91954 Old 08-13-2017, 10:12 PM
husker88jeep
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Red face

My shackles and spacers arrived today. Now to get my Jeep from Omaha to Phoenix to install them.

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post #88517 of 91954 Old 08-15-2017, 06:46 AM
RedJeepster1
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Great my relocation brackets in yesterday. Ordered them after lunch on Friday, received them just after lunch on Monday. Can't complain about that!






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88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 Silver XJ, 4.0, AW4 with 350k+, Locked C8.25 w/ Chromos, Trussed hp30, 4.56's, Stiffened, IRO leafs, RE coils, custom 3 link, WJ knuckles, 35's
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post #88518 of 91954 Old 08-15-2017, 06:58 AM
pdcomm
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Originally Posted by RedJeepster1 View Post
Great my relocation brackets in yesterday. Ordered them after lunch on Friday, received them just after lunch on Monday. Can't complain about that!

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They didn't want to give you any time to change your mind .

1995 Cherokee Country . Gone , but , not forgotten .

Goes around , comes around .
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post #88519 of 91954 Old 08-16-2017, 07:26 AM
un4gvn1
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Build thread post 231

Got the new transmission mount installed.

Here's a few pics of the job, took longer than I expected as the new mount required I lengthen the slots in the IRO crossmember. Not sure why, but it wasn't going to go without either the transmission moving forward roughly 1/4" (not gonna happen with BrownDog motor mounts) or the crossmember moving back (or extending the slots).

Here's where the exhaust was pinned against the crossmember.



Hard to see, so I took the liberty of pointing the problem out.




I thought I was going to be able to get away with only dropping one end of the crossmember.



To anyone thinking about long-arms... A removable center section in the crossmember is imperative. This job would have been much harder if I'd had to disconnect the front suspension.

An "after" shot.



Not rubbing now!



The old and the new.



The old mount was still intact, which surprised me. It had just collapsed.

This one shouldn't be as susceptible to that fate.



Tranny is enough higher that I now have a stupid amount of clearance between the t-case & skid. I'll have to modify the skid at a later date.



Had to re-adjust my Boostwerks t-case linkage because everything moved. Then I got all excited & put the front driveline back in!

Still had a little night left, so broke out the plastic welder & attempted a repair on my broken Hella fog light. No pics of the results, but it seems to be holding. Time will tell for sure.

To celebrate, I had a "Jeeportunity" (driving over something simply because I can).




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"Experience is what enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again. "

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post #88520 of 91954 Old 08-17-2017, 05:30 AM
zte87
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Lowered the rear a 1/2" via the shackles, wishing I could drop the rear another inch but this will have to do for now.
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luck favors the prepared - anticanman
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post #88521 of 91954 Old 08-17-2017, 06:16 AM
RedJeepster1
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Originally Posted by zte87 View Post
Lowered the rear a 1/2" via the shackles, wishing I could drop the rear another inch but this will have to do for now.
You running any shackle relocation? You may be able to drop the rear down a little more with the no lift shackle relocation. Not sure how hard it would be to cut the stock mount out with the quarter panels still there though. I've heard it isn't too fun.

88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 Silver XJ, 4.0, AW4 with 350k+, Locked C8.25 w/ Chromos, Trussed hp30, 4.56's, Stiffened, IRO leafs, RE coils, custom 3 link, WJ knuckles, 35's
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post #88522 of 91954 Old 08-17-2017, 07:54 AM
HalfOffTuesdays
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Cutting the factory shackle boxes out was actually really easy (as long as you're using quality cutoff wheels).
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post #88523 of 91954 Old 08-17-2017, 08:51 AM
bluejunior
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Originally Posted by HalfOffTuesdays View Post
Cutting the factory shackle boxes out was actually really easy (as long as you're using quality cutoff wheels).
Hell even with cheap wheels that was the easiest part.

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post #88524 of 91954 Old 08-17-2017, 11:43 AM
RedJeepster1
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Originally Posted by bluejunior View Post
Hell even with cheap wheels that was the easiest part.
Then what was the hard part? I've had my rear axle out of the silver Jeep probably 10 times in the last two weeks. 4 bolts and roll it out of the way. I figured making space for the new boxes was why everyone thought these were a pain to install. Seems like the rest of the install is drilling two holes and putting a bunch of bolts in.

88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 Silver XJ, 4.0, AW4 with 350k+, Locked C8.25 w/ Chromos, Trussed hp30, 4.56's, Stiffened, IRO leafs, RE coils, custom 3 link, WJ knuckles, 35's
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post #88525 of 91954 Old 08-17-2017, 12:02 PM
bluejunior
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Originally Posted by RedJeepster1 View Post

Then what was the hard part? I've had my rear axle out of the silver Jeep probably 10 times in the last two weeks. 4 bolts and roll it out of the way. I figured making space for the new boxes was why everyone thought these were a pain to install. Seems like the rest of the install is drilling two holes and putting a bunch of bolts in.
The stack on the frame rails. Huge pain in the *** to get even one bolt started in the nutstrip, very easy to cross thread (which is all it takes to spin a nut on the JCR strips which is a BIG problem), you have to get creative with spacers on the exhaust hanger. It's generally a mess and will be every time you have to take something down. The thickness of the brackets and the fact that they use 3 spots in the middle of the strip is what makes them complicate it worse than say, a hitch or skid.

That's the primary reason I'll go with RC style bolt ins if I ever build another XJ.

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post #88526 of 91954 Old 08-17-2017, 12:55 PM
HalfOffTuesdays
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For me it came down to how did I want to sandwich everything together? I ended up bolting the boxes directly to the frame, then used the provided "spacers" to take up the extra space for the front bolts of my JCR skid plate and then the holes that run along the back side left to right. You also have to modify the plates that bolt into the cabin as the fuel filler area doesn't allow rectangular piece of steel to fit in there. I can get a pic to show you what I mean.



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post #88527 of 91954 Old 08-17-2017, 12:56 PM
bobthecatkiller
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Ok so what's the deal with the back hatch handle. That bolt that holds it on just spins with the bolt on all three of my xjs. I can solve most issues on these things but this has me a little stumped I can't get my angle grinder in there to cut it off.

"****, I might **** around and bring the Jeep back No doors on it, flexin' with the seat back"
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post #88528 of 91954 Old 08-17-2017, 01:08 PM
RedJeepster1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HalfOffTuesdays View Post
For me it came down to how did I want to sandwich everything together? I ended up bolting the boxes directly to the frame, then used the provided "spacers" to take up the extra space for the front bolts of my JCR skid plate and then the holes that run along the back side left to right. You also have to modify the plates that bolt into the cabin as the fuel filler area doesn't allow rectangular piece of steel to fit in there. I can get a pic to show you what I mean.



I'm familiar with the last bit you were talking about there. That shouldn't be an issue with trimming the one plate. Regarding the stackup, once I put these in I don't think they will ever come out. Especially if I weld nuts to the back so I can adjust the angle with just one wrench like the factory bolt. I'll get them lined up where they will sit and at least tack weld them in place so they stay put while I put my hitch in place. They will be on the bottom (or I suppose it will be the top, they will be first to go on) as I don't plan to keep the hitch forever.

Thanks for the insight from you guys on this stuff though, hopefully I can make this install a little easier for myself by modifying a few things.

88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 Silver XJ, 4.0, AW4 with 350k+, Locked C8.25 w/ Chromos, Trussed hp30, 4.56's, Stiffened, IRO leafs, RE coils, custom 3 link, WJ knuckles, 35's
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post #88529 of 91954 Old 08-17-2017, 03:42 PM
bluejunior
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Originally Posted by RedJeepster1 View Post

I'm familiar with the last bit you were talking about there. That shouldn't be an issue with trimming the one plate. Regarding the stackup, once I put these in I don't think they will ever come out. Especially if I weld nuts to the back so I can adjust the angle with just one wrench like the factory bolt. I'll get them lined up where they will sit and at least tack weld them in place so they stay put while I put my hitch in place. They will be on the bottom (or I suppose it will be the top, they will be first to go on) as I don't plan to keep the hitch forever.

Thanks for the insight from you guys on this stuff though, hopefully I can make this install a little easier for myself by modifying a few things.
One thing to think about: it's not the shackle boxes that make the bolts come out. It's needing to drop your skid for tank access or repairs, dropping the hitch because you finally got that bumper with tie-ins, replacing the hanger, that kinda crap. Won't happen often but it's a pain when it does.

I know you're committed, I'm just giving you a heads up if it might influence your stacking.

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post #88530 of 91954 Old 08-17-2017, 04:28 PM
bluejunior
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Well the JW speaker knock offs were so popular a few months ago, $150/pair trucklites (or at least good clones) anyone?

https://www.raluled.com/products/7x6...xoCzJ8QAvD_BwE

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