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post #88141 of 92477 Old 07-05-2017, 05:18 PM
bluejunior
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Where would y'all look for cracks in the exhaust manifold? At the collection for each set of culinders? Up by the flange?

I've got a code for high voltage on cyl 1-3 and occasional loss of power/misfire. Want to make sure I'm checking everything before i just start throwing sensors at it


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post #88142 of 92477 Old 07-05-2017, 07:44 PM
Nick05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejunior View Post
Where would y'all look for cracks in the exhaust manifold? At the collection for each set of culinders? Up by the flange?

I've got a code for high voltage on cyl 1-3 and occasional loss of power/misfire. Want to make sure I'm checking everything before i just start throwing sensors at it
Mine was right before the two pieces turn to one. On the general it was bad enough you could see it without getting under the pos
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post #88143 of 92477 Old 07-05-2017, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick05 View Post

Mine was right before the two pieces turn to one. On the general it was bad enough you could see it without getting under the pos
Thanks! anybody else hit this? It's the upstream sensor throwing the code, which i thought I'd said but apparently didn't. Just in case it makes a difference

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post #88144 of 92477 Old 07-05-2017, 09:25 PM
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Beautiful sunset tonight
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post #88145 of 92477 Old 07-06-2017, 08:43 AM
COMTB
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Took the XJ camping to Crested Butte this past weekend. Had to swap a hub in an o'reilly's parking lot on the way out. Had a blast out there, did some wheeling on some of the trails that were open and the jeep did great. The more I take it offroad the better the suspension seems to flex.

On the way home she developed a rather bad wobble. I had to do 45mph limping home for about 50 miles up the highway.

So Here's what I know is broken or worn in the bfront:
Tie Rod
Control Arm Bushins
Ball joins are completely toasted
Steering box is loose
Track Bar needs to be replaced with an adjustable or one for 3 inches of lift
Drag link probably needs to be replaced again as well.

I believe the absurd amount of washboard/washed out roads we were camping off of took their toll on the ball joints and LCA/UCA bushings. I have a set of 4 spicer u-joints ordered already and was going to pick up some adjustable upper and lower control arms when I get paid on the 15th.

Question is, am I doing this in the correct order? The tie rod is busted (boots) but fairly new so I was going to wait to get the U-Joints and LCA's in there.
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post #88146 of 92477 Old 07-06-2017, 10:25 AM
RedJeepster1
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It really depends on how bad things are. I usually try to get steering components fixed first as they will be most noticeable and have the largest effect on the way your vehicle handles most of the time. That would be checking and replacing worn parts in the drag link, tie rod, and track bar. Ball joints can be replaced for about $100 with the 30% off code from advanced and a tool rental. The parts come with a lifetime warranty. You can try and snug up the steering box a little to make it last a little longer. I did this on mine and it at least got me another 6 months and about 10k miles. Control arms should be replaced if they are worn out but are a big $$ item for good adjustable arms and they probably won't contribute to the poor handling as much as the steering items and the ball joints.

What on the track bar is loose? The TRE at the frame side or the hole on the axle side. You can weld a washer on the axle side that will take the slop out of that. If it's the frame side it will definitely need to be replaced.

Have you done an alignment since you did the lift? That can have a big effect on handling. Lifting a Jeep with the stock steering will cause the front wheels to be towed in. If you got your steering components that you said were fairly new at a parts store, they may be under warranty. If they have gone bad you should be able to replace those free of cost.

88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 Silver XJ, 4.0, AW4 with 350k+, Locked C8.25 w/ Chromos, Trussed hp30, 4.56's, Stiffened, IRO leafs, RE coils, custom 3 link, WJ knuckles, 35's
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post #88147 of 92477 Old 07-06-2017, 11:24 AM
COMTB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedJeepster1 View Post
It really depends on how bad things are. I usually try to get steering components fixed first as they will be most noticeable and have the largest effect on the way your vehicle handles most of the time. That would be checking and replacing worn parts in the drag link, tie rod, and track bar. Ball joints can be replaced for about $100 with the 30% off code from advanced and a tool rental. The parts come with a lifetime warranty. You can try and snug up the steering box a little to make it last a little longer. I did this on mine and it at least got me another 6 months and about 10k miles. Control arms should be replaced if they are worn out but are a big $$ item for good adjustable arms and they probably won't contribute to the poor handling as much as the steering items and the ball joints.

What on the track bar is loose? The TRE at the frame side or the hole on the axle side. You can weld a washer on the axle side that will take the slop out of that. If it's the frame side it will definitely need to be replaced.

Have you done an alignment since you did the lift? That can have a big effect on handling. Lifting a Jeep with the stock steering will cause the front wheels to be towed in. If you got your steering components that you said were fairly new at a parts store, they may be under warranty. If they have gone bad you should be able to replace those free of cost.

Thanks for the reply. So I picked up the crown hd steering kit on amazon and the boot just disintegrated on the drivers side. But I was out of the warranty period so SOL. The track bar just needs to be a bit longer to fit the lift. The main issues (after reading your post) should be the ball joints (getting done this weekend, they are on the way to my house now) and the tie rod? The adjustable LCA's i was looking at the IRO kits.

I did a driveway alignment post lift and tie rod install and it was a 1/16th wider in the back so I figured i was good. After I do the ball joints I was going to head to a local shop and see if they could get it aligned/balanced for me and see if that makes a difference. I bet my castor is probably a bit off. Will I have to do another alignment when I do the tie rod/control arms?

Two options for Control Arms Fixed vs adjustabled:
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10167.html
or
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10169.html.

Would the non-adjustable CA's work just as well?

I should probably go in more depth for my symptons. When I hit a bump, go to fast, or turn a the wheel about 45 degrees to the left I get a wobble above 40-45MPH. It feels like it's the control arms flexing back and forth. The entire front end goes crazy.

For the steering portion of that, it is ONLY turning left which is odd. That is the side the TRE boot when out on but it feels like there's play in the sterring when I turn it a certain point and then if I turn past it it goes away. Is that the tie rod or the loose steering box? I was thinking of hitting a JY for a durango steering box sometime this month if the funds allow.

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post #88148 of 92477 Old 07-06-2017, 02:50 PM
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Finally got around to power washing under the front half of the Jeep. Also paid my property taxes and insurance today for her. The goal Saturday and Sunday is to prep and POR 15.
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post #88149 of 92477 Old 07-07-2017, 03:03 AM
un4gvn1
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Build thread post 221

Damn, I've got some catching up to do...

Finally got the correct oil filter, and the "death rattle" on dry start seems to be gone.

I still have an underhood noise that I don't care for, but can't seem to pin it down. It sounds like a contaminated bearing or something like that, kind of a rubbing/hissing noise. I may have to wait for something to fail to figure out what it is.

Oil pressure is good, and doesn't drop off with engine temp like it did before the rod bearing replacement, so I'm thinking I dodged a bullet by doing the rods now. Bottom end shouldn't be a problem for a good long time. (fingers crossed)

Sorry, but I don't have any pics of the bottom end, or of the bearings we removed. I may get some of the bearings, but with the pan back on there is zero chance of getting pics of the inside of the engine at this point.

I've been working on other projects for the last few weeks, the wife and I actually had a couple of weekends off at the same time, so we spent some time at the coast just getting away from our normal routine. This of course allowed me to discover more projects. Turns out our '86 class A has a few items I'm going to need to address. Not the least of which is a leaking front caliper. I also need to get airbags installed on the rear if I hope to pull the Jeep on a trailer behind it. I suspect I'll need to add another transmission cooler and maybe an engine oil cooler as well when I start adding to the load.

Oh yeah, we had an inside dual come apart on the way home on the 3rd. Thankfully it waited until we were less than two miles from the house, so I was able to simply hit the four-ways and limp home @ 10 mph or so. Best price I've found locally for a decent quality tire is $500 for the pair (I plan on replacing both inside tires now, then the outsides in a month or two).

The trailer is another story. I pulled the wood out of the center section of the deck and am in the process of welding in steel decking. Once this is done, I'll be building drive-over fenders. Went to DMV today only to find out the previous owner needs to fill out a 'lost title' form (I have no idea where to find him at this point). I'm thinking I may be better served to simply lose the plate that's on it now and haul it in and tell 'em "I just built this trailer" & get an assigned VIN. One way or another I need to get this titled in my name, I'm getting deeper in the damn thing and can't afford to scrap it and start over at this point. I put the new tires on it, and plan on ordering brake parts soon, it'll be a nice unit when I get it done, but the title issue could become a damned expensive problem if I can't get it transferred.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdcomm View Post
"Experience is what enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again. "

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post #88150 of 92477 Old 07-07-2017, 03:13 AM
un4gvn1
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Build thread post 222

Tonight I was going to finally get around to replacing the plugs, wires, cap & rotor.

Just not that ambitious.

Got a wild hair, and put 'er in "summer trim".

This



Became this



From the back





I kinda like the look, just not brave enough to run it in the wet months...


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"Experience is what enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again. "

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post #88151 of 92477 Old 07-07-2017, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by un4gvn1 View Post
Build thread post 221

Damn, I've got some catching up to do...



Oh yeah, we had an inside dual come apart on the way home on the 3rd. Thankfully it waited until we were less than two miles from the house, so I was able to simply hit the four-ways and limp home @ 10 mph or so. Best price I've found locally for a decent quality tire is $500 for the pair (I plan on replacing both inside tires now, then the outsides in a month or two).

The trailer is another story. I pulled the wood out of the center section of the deck and am in the process of welding in steel decking. Once this is done, I'll be building drive-over fenders. Went to DMV today only to find out the previous owner needs to fill out a 'lost title' form (I have no idea where to find him at this point). I'm thinking I may be better served to simply lose the plate that's on it now and haul it in and tell 'em "I just built this trailer" & get an assigned VIN. One way or another I need to get this titled in my name, I'm getting deeper in the damn thing and can't afford to scrap it and start over at this point. I put the new tires on it, and plan on ordering brake parts soon, it'll be a nice unit when I get it done, but the title issue could become a damned expensive problem if I can't get it transferred.
Sounds like you got lucky . Tires on a motor home will usually rot out long before they wear out . Some folks , with lots of money , change them at 5 years , no matter the wear . Most use the 7 year plan and a few will push fate out to 10 years .

Just in case you don't know how to read the age of tires :



Does Oregon recognize a Bill Of Sale as legal transfer of ownership , sans a title ?

That's all I had for our trailer when I registered and plated it in Michigan . That process gave me a new Michigan title .

1995 Cherokee Country . Gone , but , not forgotten .

Goes around , comes around .
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post #88152 of 92477 Old 07-07-2017, 05:57 AM
RedJeepster1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COMTB View Post
Thanks for the reply. So I picked up the crown hd steering kit on amazon and the boot just disintegrated on the drivers side. But I was out of the warranty period so SOL. The track bar just needs to be a bit longer to fit the lift. The main issues (after reading your post) should be the ball joints (getting done this weekend, they are on the way to my house now) and the tie rod? The adjustable LCA's i was looking at the IRO kits.

I did a driveway alignment post lift and tie rod install and it was a 1/16th wider in the back so I figured i was good. After I do the ball joints I was going to head to a local shop and see if they could get it aligned/balanced for me and see if that makes a difference. I bet my castor is probably a bit off. Will I have to do another alignment when I do the tie rod/control arms?

Two options for Control Arms Fixed vs adjustabled:
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10167.html
or
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10169.html.

Would the non-adjustable CA's work just as well?

I should probably go in more depth for my symptons. When I hit a bump, go to fast, or turn a the wheel about 45 degrees to the left I get a wobble above 40-45MPH. It feels like it's the control arms flexing back and forth. The entire front end goes crazy.

For the steering portion of that, it is ONLY turning left which is odd. That is the side the TRE boot when out on but it feels like there's play in the sterring when I turn it a certain point and then if I turn past it it goes away. Is that the tie rod or the loose steering box? I was thinking of hitting a JY for a durango steering box sometime this month if the funds allow.
Driveway alignment is fine. I've been running driveway alignments for a while on my Jeep and the other Jeeps I work on. fixed vs adjustable is definitely debatable. Kind of depends on what you plan to do in the future. If you want to stretch the front axle forward or plan to change lift height then adjustable is the way to go. If you are at 3" and plan to stay there than you probably can just get fixed control arms and you should be fine.

I have heard some controversial info on the durango box and that's it's the same internals with a slightly different rate, so not really much of an upgrade, but it's been a while. I think Blue runs one.

88 YJ with a 4.6l stroker, AX-15, NP231, 2.5" lift, 4.10's and 33's
2000 Silver XJ, 4.0, AW4 with 350k+, Locked C8.25 w/ Chromos, Trussed hp30, 4.56's, Stiffened, IRO leafs, RE coils, custom 3 link, WJ knuckles, 35's
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post #88153 of 92477 Old 07-07-2017, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by un4gvn1 View Post
Build thread post 221

I still have an underhood noise that I don't care for, but can't seem to pin it down. It sounds like a contaminated bearing or something like that, kind of a rubbing/hissing noise. I may have to wait for something to fail to figure out what it is.
Could be the A/C compressor. Thats exactly how I described the problem I'd had with my Explorer.

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post #88154 of 92477 Old 07-07-2017, 07:38 AM
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Finally fixed my last (I think) vacuum leak by changing the power brake booster. I've been packing that new part around since before [B]un4gvn[B] changed his rod bearings. Weber carburetors are more finicky to tune than anything else I've ever dealt with, I've been fighting this off-idle stumble/stall since I replaced the engine in December, and it's been my daily the whole time. The really irritating part is that when I bought the carb it worked great! I slapped it on, barely had to adjust the idle, and I suddenly realized how bad my clutch was getting Then after replacing my worn out clutch...and worn out long block...it's been a real Booger. It seemed to run better on the way home, but I'm so used to driving in a way that compensates for that stumble, I think I need an objective third party to try driving the damn thing before I can say for sure it's fixed
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post #88155 of 92477 Old 07-07-2017, 09:29 AM
COMTB
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Originally Posted by NT7B View Post
Finally fixed my last (I think) vacuum leak by changing the power brake booster. I've been packing that new part around since before [B]un4gvn[B] changed his rod bearings. Weber carburetors are more finicky to tune than anything else I've ever dealt with, I've been fighting this off-idle stumble/stall since I replaced the engine in December, and it's been my daily the whole time. The really irritating part is that when I bought the carb it worked great! I slapped it on, barely had to adjust the idle, and I suddenly realized how bad my clutch was getting Then after replacing my worn out clutch...and worn out long block...it's been a real Booger. It seemed to run better on the way home, but I'm so used to driving in a way that compensates for that stumble, I think I need an objective third party to try driving the damn thing before I can say for sure it's fixed
I volunteer as tribute if you drive mine and tell me how horrible it feels too. I've been running into the same issues with front end wobble and some drivetrain vibes. It gets a little better than what it was and I think it's fixed but then it starts again at a different speed etc. Daily too, PITA

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