What did you do to your XJ/MJ today? - Page 5454 - JeepForum.com
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post #81796 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 04:01 PM
XJkid01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejunior View Post

Is the terminal stud itself corroded?

Otherwise it could be another factor, temp sensitive and you gave it time to cool a bit maybe? Kind of depends on what 'Dead' means. Not enough juice/weak crank? No crank? Crank no start?
Terminal isn't corroded. Dead as in the first try to start it has enough juice to turn in interior and dash lights but when I go to start it clicks and then no electronics work. My little sister's patriot just started doing the same thing too....she just got a new battery and alternator

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post #81797 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by XJkid01 View Post
Terminal isn't corroded. Dead as in the first try to start it has enough juice to turn in interior and dash lights but when I go to start it clicks and then no electronics work. My little sister's patriot just started doing the same thing too....she just got a new battery and alternator
It's POSSIBLE that that battery itself was dead (indicating a charging/battery problem) and the rest period let it recover. Batteries do revive a bit when left alone. Best bet would be to take a reasonably long drive and then stop at the parts store on your way home, pull the battery and have it tested to see if it's bad.

However, the intermittent thing really sounds more like a wiring problem to me. Have you tried not just working over the terminals but the other connections as well? Clean up the starter connections (which is low enough to get into crap as well as have oil leaked on it), clean up the connections between alt, pdc and battery, and clean up the main ground at the fender side.

See if that helps and keep an eye on your voltmeter while driving.

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post #81798 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 04:22 PM
XJkid01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejunior View Post

It's POSSIBLE that that battery itself was dead (indicating a charging/battery problem) and the rest period let it recover. Batteries do revive a bit when left alone. Best bet would be to take a reasonably long drive and then stop at the parts store on your way home, pull the battery and have it tested to see if it's bad.

However, the intermittent thing really sounds more like a wiring problem to me. Have you tried not just working over the terminals but the other connections as well? Clean up the starter connections (which is low enough to get into crap as well as have oil leaked on it), clean up the connections between alt, pdc and battery, and clean up the main ground at the fender side.

See if that helps and keep an eye on your voltmeter while driving.

I'll do the other stuff. The voltometer seems to be attached to the speedo. Pegs out when I'm around 65 and drops back to normal at 35-40
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post #81799 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by XJkid01 View Post
I'll do the other stuff. The voltometer seems to be attached to the speedo. Pegs out when I'm around 65 and drops back to normal at 35-40
....That could be bad. Is it RPM sensitive or speed sensitive?

RPM sensitive volt pegging could be a sign of a failing voltage regulator, which could trash a battery for sure, and a lot of your electrical, too if you're not careful.

Are you able to replicate the behavior and confirm with a voltmeter across the charging cable (not the battery terminal) and a ground?

if it's speed sensitive as opposed to RPM, that's....odd. And may be a problem at the cluster or a ground loop or something rather than a true voltage problem. I'd really want to test it myself if that was happening though, even if I had to rig something up with gator clamps on wires closed in the hood and the passenger door so I could monitor my voltage with a multimeter while driving.

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post #81800 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 04:35 PM
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In the shop getting the exhaust replaced. Too rusted etc for me to tackle with my limited tools and workspace. Then emissions test and hopefully plates! Woo! Also went to change the trans fluid on the ax-15 the PO told me was in there, it's a BA10/5. Le sigh, oh well. Picking up a cheap 3/8 extension and going to get the fluid swapped this weekend. Kinda annoyed but in all honesty it shifts damn smooth for having 206k on it so I can't complain. Drive it till it breaks than I'll swap an AX-15 in there probably.
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post #81801 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 05:37 PM
Joshua13
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Anyone know why just one wheel centercap would be loose and rattling? Lugnuts are tight, the other wheels are all tight, but this one is driving me nuts.

They're black soft 8 knock-offs (pro-comp probably) with the chrome barrel center caps. I may just have to put a little gasket tape or something around it later but it's really bugging me.
Silicone is your friend

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post #81802 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 05:40 PM
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Swapped out the Skyjacker lift shackles for some stock height ones. Hopefully that'll help with the squirrelly feeling over bumps. We'll see if it makes a difference on the drive to work tomorrow.

Hers - 2011 Dodge Durango Crew
Mine - 2004 Toyota Tundra DC SR5
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post #81803 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 05:53 PM
Joshua13
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Does anyone have the link to the "how to" bolting the vacuum engagement always on thread?

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post #81804 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 05:59 PM
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Does anyone have the link to the "how to" bolting the vacuum engagement always on thread?

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Unbolt the cover, pull the c clip without sending it flying and slide the fork over and put the c clip back. Slide the axle piece over in the tube and put everything back. Top off your gear oil.

Its very straightforward and obvious when you get the cover off.

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Quote:
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post #81805 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 06:23 PM
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Finally got the beast to pass California's emission test.. 3rd time was a charm.
First time. After researching my butt off and replacing the half-assed cold air kit with the stock air box and connecting the hoses where theyou belong, took it in only to be told that heater hose is NOT for emission use. Not even for breather. He also didn't care for the fuel cap that wouldn't tighten, as well as the 2 broken exhaust bolts. (Those were fun to drill out and extract.) Passed the sniffer test just fine, just not the visual.
Second go around.. showed up, he looked it over and gave a thumbs up on repairs, but his machine wouldn't upload to the state database.
Today, everything went as planned. Woo Hoo!! Now for title transfer and registration.

91 Cherokee XJ 4.0 H.O nicknamed Lucifer..
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post #81806 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 06:42 PM
XJkid01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejunior View Post

....That could be bad. Is it RPM sensitive or speed sensitive?

RPM sensitive volt pegging could be a sign of a failing voltage regulator, which could trash a battery for sure, and a lot of your electrical, too if you're not careful.

Are you able to replicate the behavior and confirm with a voltmeter across the charging cable (not the battery terminal) and a ground?

if it's speed sensitive as opposed to RPM, that's....odd. And may be a problem at the cluster or a ground loop or something rather than a true voltage problem. I'd really want to test it myself if that was happening though, even if I had to rig something up with gator clamps on wires closed in the hood and the passenger door so I could monitor my voltage with a multimeter while driving.
It seems to be speed sensitive and only highway driving. I'll watch it closer tomorrow
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post #81807 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 07:25 PM
un4gvn1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddysXJ View Post
Finally got the beast to pass California's emission test.. 3rd time was a charm.
First time. After researching my butt off and replacing the half-assed cold air kit with the stock air box and connecting the hoses where theyou belong, took it in only to be told that heater hose is NOT for emission use. Not even for breather. He also didn't care for the fuel cap that wouldn't tighten, as well as the 2 broken exhaust bolts. (Those were fun to drill out and extract.) Passed the sniffer test just fine, just not the visual.
Second go around.. showed up, he looked it over and gave a thumbs up on repairs, but his machine wouldn't upload to the state database.
Today, everything went as planned. Woo Hoo!! Now for title transfer and registration.
You make me happy we don't have to deal with this crap up here in The People's Republic of Oregon (outside of the Portland area that is...)

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"Experience is what enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again. "

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post #81808 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 07:30 PM
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Before I post in the classifieds, does anyone here have a set of 4"-5" coils that need a new home?

I'm still running the 3" coils that came with my BDS lift, the ACOS have made it possible to keep the same springs while the rig got taller.

Well, I'm at the point where shortly after the coils unseat (easily done with the IRO longarms) the coil is in danger of coming off the upper mount. Not the end of the world, but annoying.

TIA

Quote:
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"Experience is what enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again. "

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post #81809 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 07:45 PM
Joshua13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorcharge View Post
Unbolt the cover, pull the c clip without sending it flying and slide the fork over and put the c clip back. Slide the axle piece over in the tube and put everything back. Top off your gear oil.

Its very straightforward and obvious when you get the cover off.
It doesn't need to be bolted or something?

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post #81810 of 92950 Old 05-25-2016, 08:23 PM
Motorcharge
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It doesn't need to be bolted or something?

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Nope, the c clip holds it in place and keeps it from disengaging.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Swanson
There is no such thing as bad weather. Only inadequate clothing and transportation.
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