What did you do to your XJ/MJ today? - Page 2295 - JeepForum.com
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post #34411 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 01:37 PM
mountainjock
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Hey Vegas- one of you red XJ guys have a build thread going and used rubber pipe insulation for flare trim, do you know who that was??


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post #34412 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 02:27 PM
HankyDanky
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Originally Posted by mountainjock View Post
Hey Vegas- one of you red XJ guys have a build thread going and used rubber pipe insulation for flare trim, do you know who that was??
http://dpgoffroad.com/products/protekto/

1989 Cherokee 4.0l, Rubicon Express 4.5" XJ Super-Flex System, 33x12.50x15 KM2's

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People are always grabbing the handles, clutching the seat, or stomping an imaginary brake peddle when we're out having fun.
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post #34413 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 02:46 PM
mountainjock
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Thanks Dank!

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post #34414 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 02:47 PM
HankyDanky
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Originally Posted by mountainjock View Post
Thanks Dank!
Ha no problem, I was actually looking for it myself so I knew where to find it.

1989 Cherokee 4.0l, Rubicon Express 4.5" XJ Super-Flex System, 33x12.50x15 KM2's

The XJ Rebuild-
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People are always grabbing the handles, clutching the seat, or stomping an imaginary brake peddle when we're out having fun.
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post #34415 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 03:15 PM
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yeah, the build thread I saw said they got it at Home Depot. I wanted to see how it was holding up, but the stuff in the link looks cool!

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post #34416 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 03:22 PM
VegasGT
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Originally Posted by mountainjock View Post
Hey Vegas- one of you red XJ guys have a build thread going and used rubber pipe insulation for flare trim, do you know who that was??
That's mine. Used it on the front. Its only like 6 bucks for a 6 foot section, and looks about as close to an oem kind of look with trimmed fenders as you are going to get shy of spending 400 bucks. I call em "baby flares". It is still holding up great, looks like the day I put it on, just be careful with a pressure washer around it haha.

Build thread is in the sig.

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post #34417 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 03:29 PM
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Cool-nice rig!!

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post #34418 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 03:59 PM
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Cool-nice rig!!
Thanks!

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post #34419 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 04:11 PM
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I've read of people doing that but at my height i think it looks right. Draglink and tb are parallel and i have no bumpsteer i can detect. Never ran a double shear before so i could be way off.

lift height does not factor in that

parallel between the mounting points is the important part.

if you are using the stock axle side TB mount and the stock knuckle config, that means that the drag link mount at the pitman arm and the trackbar mount at the frame have to be at the same height in order for them to be parallel.

same reason you can't flip the drag link mount to the top of the knuckle like you can with the tie-rod without addressing the trackbar

take a straight on picture draw a line between the mounting points of the TB and DL then post it up.
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post #34420 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mountainjock View Post
yeah, the build thread I saw said they got it at Home Depot. I wanted to see how it was holding up, but the stuff in the link looks cool!
Now I see what your talking about. Creative but I wouldn't use that stuff compared to what I posted up. Def. not going to be as durable and will cost about the same. Plus I think it just looks much better. The sun would discolor it and dry it out within 6 months.

1989 Cherokee 4.0l, Rubicon Express 4.5" XJ Super-Flex System, 33x12.50x15 KM2's

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post #34421 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Climbit View Post
lift height does not factor in that

parallel between the mounting points is the important part.

if you are using the stock axle side TB mount and the stock knuckle config, that means that the drag link mount at the pitman arm and the trackbar mount at the frame have to be at the same height in order for them to be parallel.

same reason you can't flip the drag link mount to the top of the knuckle like you can with the tie-rod without addressing the trackbar

take a straight on picture draw a line between the mounting points of the TB and DL then post it up.
I see now. So in theory, if they are not parallel, i would be a good candidate for an OTK setup? This has always been the gray area in my knowledge. Never had a setup like this in the past and I come from an area of halfway done rigs, so ive never really had much experience with this end of it. Pour all the knowledge you want, im a sponge. Im about to hit up the search and absorb haha.

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post #34422 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by VegasGT View Post
I see now. So in theory, if they are not parallel, i would be a good candidate for an OTK setup? This has always been the gray area in my knowledge. Never had a setup like this in the past and I come from an area of halfway done rigs, so ive never really had much experience with this end of it. Pour all the knowledge you want, im a sponge. Im about to hit up the search and absorb haha.
whatever it takes to get them parallel, or nearly parallel. both vertically and horizontally.

you also want them to be as close to the same length as possible. even the stock setup is not perfect there.

watch out for the off the shelf kits to go OTK. most are inverted T and that sucks.

if you raise the knuckle end of the drag link up, you have to do something to keep it parallel with the with the track-bar. one of the was of doing it is to go crossover cut the coil buckets off, mount the trackbar out to the inner c, and run a knuckle like the WJ, or a reid knuckle.

I have also toyed with the idea of raising the drag link to the top of the knuckle, and putting a flat pitman arm to raise it back up and make it parallel with the trackbar in stock mounting positions.
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post #34423 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by HankyDanky View Post
Now I see what your talking about. Creative but I wouldn't use that stuff compared to what I posted up. Def. not going to be as durable and will cost about the same. Plus I think it just looks much better. The sun would discolor it and dry it out within 6 months.
That stuff you posted is definately the stronger alternative. I have had zero problems out of mine, but it doesnt take a rocket scientist to figure out a solid scrape with a rock will tear it.

That link you provided would be great for something just to cover rough edges, but aesthetically it doesnt really look any different to me than regular trimmed fenders with door edge trim on the cut.

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post #34424 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Climbit View Post
whatever it takes to get them parallel, or nearly parallel. both vertically and horizontally.

you also want them to be as close to the same length as possible. even the stock setup is not perfect there.

watch out for the off the shelf kits to go OTK. most are inverted T and that sucks.

if you raise the knuckle end of the drag link up, you have to do something to keep it parallel with the with the track-bar. one of the was of doing it is to go crossover cut the coil buckets off, mount the trackbar out to the inner c, and run a knuckle like the WJ, or a reid knuckle.

I have also toyed with the idea of raising the drag link to the top of the knuckle, and putting a flat pitman arm to raise it back up and make it parallel with the trackbar in stock mounting positions.

I will have to check it out. For now though I may let it be, as long as no bumpsteer arises. Ive got more pressing issues on the to-do list, and the wallet is only so thick.

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post #34425 of 91823 Old 03-14-2012, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wearingthin

Yea. You only replace the rear shaft if you use a SYE.

The stock setup features its extension portion between the transfer case and the driveshaft. A TC drop does nothing to replace this.

A SYE replaces that 'slip' style yoke with a fixed yoke. This way, you can use a CV joint to connect to the transfer case, and move the extension portion to the shaft itself.

Here's a picture that shows what I'm talking about. See the bare metal portion on the bottom shaft? That's what slides to connect to the TC. The top shaft has the extension in the middle of shaft, and you can see the CV style joint
I see...some knowledge was just pored in to my head why thank you
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