Restoring 96 Cherokee, Mechanic or DIY? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 19 Old 11-17-2020, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
Clifford96
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@superj I will definitely look into the wires on the fuel rail and a new wiring harness and trying to fix the electrical issues then (I'll also try to find an auto mechanic with electrical experience for plan B). Where would you guys recommend ordering a new wiring harness from? Should I replace all wires, or just the fuel injection wiring harness? Do you know how much $ they typically go for? Should I inspect the cap and rotor (the mechanic said there was 'gunky goo' in it) and think about replacing those components as well?

I'll definitely be removing the override that my pop put in, I'm just worried it might be something between the starter and the ignition being what's causing the startup problem. Problem is I replaced both the ignition switch and the starter when it started acting up, which only solved the problem for a few weeks before we had the issues crop back up and my dad installed the override. I'd be really peeved if the brand new starter quit just after we got it (because 1996 was the bastard year and the solenoid is often exposed to the elements from what I hear?)

You guys are also confident it's an electrical problem, but why is air coming out the muffler and bypassing the valves when we were doing the air test? If the cylinders are holding pressure properly then it shouldn't be blowing air.


Last edited by Clifford96; 11-17-2020 at 09:40 PM. Reason: Clarification
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post #17 of 19 Old 11-19-2020, 01:00 PM
UKXJ
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I'd open up that harness with a view to replacing individual suspect wires, before deciding to replace the whole thing. Not least because they're not available here (in fact, it never occurred to me you could buy one, never mind have a choice).

"I replaced both the ignition switch and the starter when it started acting up, which only solved the problem for a few weeks before we had the issues crop back up . . . " that suggests to me that they weren't the real cause of the problem.

There are variations in the terminals (possibly year specific) but, afaik, they're all interchangeable. Nothing special about '96's (at least in that department) the starter from mine is now doing service in my '99.

As for the symptoms described in connection with the compression test, I'm not at all sure I understand what you mean, so can't comment further. However, there do seem to be electrical issues, so sort those, then see what you're left with.
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post #18 of 19 Old 11-24-2020, 07:49 AM
superj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifford96 View Post
You guys are also confident it's an electrical problem, but why is air coming out the muffler and bypassing the valves when we were doing the air test? If the cylinders are holding pressure properly then it shouldn't be blowing air.
you could have carbon on the valve or seat area that is preventing a proper seal, or the valve could be burned up on the edges causing an improper seal.

when its idling, it idles smoothly? but when driving and get to around 35mph, it starts shaking?

how about when you are idling and you raise the rpms slowly?

when its idling, take a dollar bill and hold it in front of your exhaust tip. see if the exhaust blows it out rhythmically or if it jumps and pops back onto the opening? you can just hold the dollar with one hand, like you are going to pay for something, but in front of the exhaust so it would be covering the opening, if the engine was off.

if it flaps out the whole time in a smooth or fluttering fashion, you are good on the exhaust and your valves are ok.

if it pops back and forth, like its sometimes trying to be sucked onto the opening, you have a burned valve or two. like if it flutters smoothly and then makes a little pop from slapping back onto the tip and than goes back to the fluttering.

and, to test another thing, do you happen to have a vacuum gage? that can tell you loads about your engine. they are around 30 bucks at the local auto parts place and looks like a compression gage. you unhook a vacuum line from your intake, preferably a small one like the one of the end of the intake near the brake booster, and put your line onto that spot. than go start your jeep and come back and look at the gage.

it will read on a scale from 0-30, if I remember right. your jeep should be running between 17 and 21 inches on the gage. and it should hardly move back and forth.

here is a link for what the readings on the vacuum age mean. (hopefully it works, the img)


the xj is the only jeep left in the driveway
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post #19 of 19 Old 05-08-2021, 09:36 PM
czjeeper
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I know this is a bit old, but your first "mechanic" sounds like an idiot. Wow, I've heard a lot of garbage diags in the last 10 years I was a tech, but that is really bad. Please have a real driveability technician look at it.

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